| Author | Message | ||
| Walt Pfirman (Waltp)
New member Username: Waltp Post Number: 9 Registered: 7-2002 |
SUCCESS!! Phil you were 100% correct. I used the wedges to get it moving and once I saw it going I got more aggressive(earlier I was afraid I would break something) and it came right off, bearing and all. Thanks again. | ||
| Walt Pfirman (Waltp)
New member Username: Waltp Post Number: 8 Registered: 7-2002 |
Thanks Phil, I'll try the wedges. From what they told me at F. of Atlanta the bearing does have to come out before the BH will come off due to the square cut retaining ring behind the bearing. At this point I'll try just about anything! I'll let you how I make out. Thanks again to all that have responded. | ||
| phil hooper (Wolftalk)
New member Username: Wolftalk Post Number: 20 Registered: 5-2002 |
walt, I don't think you don't need to get the bearing out at this point. what peter shows in his picture is the pieces that are on the transmission input shaft in the correct order. The last ring on the bottom right does not need to come off the shaft, as the hole in the bell housing is big enough to slide over it. the bearing will pull off the shaft along with the bell housing. I did a clutch a month ago on an '80 308, and the bearing was on the shaft too snugly to remove it first. to get the bell housing off, try using wooden wedges (shims you get from a hardware store) . once you get the bh out a little ways, you can use a piece of wood to pry the bottom of the bh. stick the end of the wood under/behind the bottom of the bh between the bottom and the frame rail so the wood is vertical, then push on the end with your foot. the frame rail is the pivot point. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1908 Registered: 12-2000 |
Walt, yes, the bearing must come out to gain access to the snap-ring. I pulled mine out with my fingers. No pullers or other devices. From what I've experienced and what I've read here and other places, this bearing is not a "tight" fit on the shaft and shouldn't be hard to remove. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 1573 Registered: 2-2001 |
Could be that the shaft is stuck in the pilot bearing inside the crankshaft. If this is the case then some careful prying is in order. | ||
| Walt Pfirman (Waltp)
New member Username: Waltp Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2002 |
Peter and Don, thanks for replying. Peter the picture is excellent. I've got the nut, gear and large internal snap ring off. I can't get the bearing to budge. As I understand it, I have to get the bearing off to access the seal and retaining ring which will allow the bellhousing to come off. Am I doing it right? Any other suggestions? | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1907 Registered: 12-2000 |
Walt, do any of these parts look familiar to you? Is this the bearing you're having problems with?  | ||
| Don McCormick (Dandy_don)
New member Username: Dandy_don Post Number: 27 Registered: 2-2002 |
Walt, I was reading other threads and found that you described your problem in more detail in a previous post. I agree with Peter GT4, you need to remove the snap ring on the lower shaft before the bell housing will come off. I thought you were talking about the upper clutch output shaft. Once you get the snap ring off everything will come off. Good luck Don | ||
| Don McCormick (Dandy_don)
New member Username: Dandy_don Post Number: 25 Registered: 2-2002 |
Walt, I just did a clutch job a month ago and did not have this problem. Why do you want to break the inner race of the bearing loose from the shaft? My recollection is that the shaft and the bellhousing come out together. This means that the shaft must come out of the splines of the clutch disc. I do not recall having to mess with bearings at this point. I did remove the shaft from the bellhousing later after I had removed the comlete assembly from the car. I think you just need to pull the entire bellhousing straight back away from the pressure plate/clutch assembly. If pulling does not work then I would try using a prybar on either side of the bellhousing being careful not to mess up the mating surfaces, although it is not a big deal if you scar those surfaces as they are not gasketed and do not seal against any fluid. Just apply the pressure as evenly as possible and it should come loose. Don | ||
| Walt Pfirman (Waltp)
New member Username: Waltp Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2002 |
I really need so help. I can't get the trans. input shaft bearing to budge. I've removed 5-- 17MM nuts and 7--13MM including the 3 for the starter and I can't get the bellhousing to move f enough to break the inner race of the bearing loose from the shaft. Ferrari of Atlanta and Ted Rutland have been very helpful but they haven't run into this before. If anyone has seen this I sure could use some HELP! |