| Author |
Message |
Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Junior Member
Username: Dapper
Post Number: 130
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 9:01 am: | |
If surfaces are flat and unmarked then I'd just use a (new) gasket. However, if there were some slight surface defects that gave me the impression I could run into probs, then and only then would I contemplate using RTV or other sealants.
I have used supplementary means of sealing e.g. RTV in the past resulting in probs whereby redoing the routine to the book i.e. just the dry gasket gave me no problems! |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 262
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 2:59 pm: | |
I installed mine dry and no leaks. RTV or any sealant like it can make the surface slippery and cause the gasket to squeeze out when the pan is tightened up. If we need sealants, what are gaskets for? Again, I would put it on dry and forget about it. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 194
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 1:46 pm: | |
Larry,
THEORY:
Ferrari says bare, the gasket should absorb oil & swell enuf to ensure sealing.
MY PRACTICE: BELT 'N SUSPENDERS(ie:RTV):
This probably works fine when everything's new & smooth. I'm dubious how well it works after things have acquired a few scratches & nicks over the years.
- Thoroughly degreas the sump flange & sump cover. - Put a vy thin (~3/16") bead of Permatex Ultra Black RTV (highly oil resistant) on the sump flange, routing it on the inside of the studs. Make sure it's continuous as a gap will leak (Murphy's Law).
- Press the gasket into the RTV, use your fingers to wipe the gasket so the RTV is forced towards the outside of the sump.(It'll clean off easily after it's cured. There should only be a tiny bead showing on the inside edge (and on the outside too if you got the bead the perfect size.)
- Now put an identical bead on the gasket.
- Press the sump cover into place & slowly snug it down by hand until it feels like you've forced all the RTV out.
- Wait 2-3 minuites, go back & snug it down again. Most likely you'll find you can squeeze some more RTV out. I think this is because the RTV is viscous, gets trapped, then slowly flows some more.
- Wait 2-3 minuites again & torque the nuts per spec.
- (OPtional: Cosmetic) After 24 hours of curing, trim the bead of cured RTV off of the outside of the seam with a razor scraper or utility knife. Then use a small steel brush to get it out of the pores in the sand casting.
VIOLA, a leak-proof seam that looks like the only thing in it is the gasket...
I've done mine 2x this way & it didn't leak either time. |
Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Junior Member
Username: Lawrence
Post Number: 115
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 11:00 am: | |
I'm getting ready to install the new oil pan gasket. Should I put any sort of sealant on the gasket? |
|