| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 581
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 11:29 am: | |
I too can recommend even the 55/60W H4 over the similarly rated sealed beams -- not only more light output (at the same current draw), but a much more modern/attractive (flatter, clearer) lens design IMO. Just do a rough calculation:
I (amps) = P(watts)/V(volts) -- where V is assumed to be something like 13.5 volts
to estimate the current draws and compare them to the fuse ratings to get a feel for the margin if you're making a wattage change (e.g., Joe's TR with 10A low beam and 15A high beams is probably better equipped to handle 80/100W H4 than an older 308 with 8A low and 8A high beam fuses.)
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William Badurski (Billb)
New member
Username: Billb
Post Number: 25
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 10:31 pm: | |
The use of the relays is based upon the wire gauge. The relay is wired into the smaller 18 gauge wire from the switch. Then a heavier gauge wire (12) is typically used from the relay to the lamps themselves. They will work with small gauge wire, but over a period of time if the wire is not large enough, the connectors melt to the lamps, or worse. |
Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
Junior Member
Username: Markg
Post Number: 132
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 10:52 am: | |
I converted my 308 over to Cibie' H4 Euro beam headlights. No probs!! |
F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member
Username: Ferrarijoe
Post Number: 87
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, March 08, 2002 - 10:45 am: | |
Has anybody with older F-cars and DOT headlights change their system over to H4/H1? What proceedures do you follow and did you incure any problems that resulted later?
I did just recently and it's literally like night and day compared to the DOT ones that were put on my car to meet spec's when it was imported (�87 TR).
I read in several places before doing this conversion about wiring the lighting system via two relays (1 for low/high and 1 for high) directly from the alternator to the lights themselves. Apparently, this should have been done to get the most juice and use for these lights. Well, I ignored that part and they seem to work fine plugged straight in. The H1 high beams come with an adaptor for the 2-pronge plugs.
When I turn on the lights normally and when I switch to high, I cannot detect any discernable draw of juice like instrument lights dimming at all. I also put a voltmeter on the battery and alternator and the charging system stayed up with the draw when I had someone switch on and flip the high beams on.
I am wondering if the lack of voltage drop is due to the fact that the Euro-Spec TR was set up for the more powerful Halogen bulbs to begin with. BTW, I have 80W/100W for the H4's and 100W for the H1's. I had them aimed properly by a reputable shop and checked them myself using the specs in the WSM.
Joe |