| Author |
Message |
Dave Penhale (Dapper)
Junior Member
Username: Dapper
Post Number: 128
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 4:35 am: | |
Terry, Whilst I'd agree the modern paints are superbly durable and give a wonderful depth of lustre (exceptions being high volume production, where they seem to skimp on quantity of layers - my recent Mercedes SLK230 in Designo Orange being case in point), it doesn't mean they look 'right' on older cars.
I recently saw a concourse prepared E type in 2 pack and although it was an absolutely stunning paint job, it didn't look 'right for the period', far too glossy and depth, they were never like that from the factory so it depends what you are aiming for I guess. I must admit I would want the depth of finish as you did, but I'm sure others wouldn't and I could see their reasoning.
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Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 139
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 9:18 pm: | |
Dont go with the old nitrocellulose lacquer, even if you can find it and someone who knows how to work with it. Modern catalyst enamels are a MASSIVE step forward. Would you put old Castrol vegetable based motor oil in your car? Its that big of a step forward. You will get not only a much more durable finish but one that will last a ton longer and look better with less post-spraying work. Some of the better paints such as Sikkens are really incredible, no "false" gloss at all. I painted an E-Type roadster in Sikkens red and it was of show stopping quality. It looked like you could sink your whole arm into the paint.
The key to a fantastic paint job is the prep work. 95% prep... 5% painting. A really good paint job is expensive because its so labor intensive. First, strip to bare metal and fix all noticable imperfections. You need to have an excellent zinc primer laid down, wet sand the car with 400 grit, prime it again with high build epoxy primer, sand it, prime it, then sand again then spray a fine dusting of black enamel on it. Now use a sanding block and gently wet sand it with 600 grit paper. The low or high spots will show up as the black is sanded off. Use the high build primer and sanding to eliminate these. It may take numerous repeats of the above process. Tons of care must be taken where panel meet to make sure the line up perfectly. When its finally perfect, wet sand with 1000 grit paper. Now your ready to begin thinking about paint... This is just a brief glimpse at what a really good paint job entails.
There are some great books on the subject. Its not rocket science and anyone can do most of it. However, it is hard work and time intensive. Its this type of prep work that will have far more impact on the quality of your paint job than the final choice of paint type! |
BobD (Bobd)
Member
Username: Bobd
Post Number: 514
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 8:12 pm: | |
Personally, I'm not a big fan of cellulite. I like a good frontal 2Pac much better. |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 279
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 5:48 pm: | |
Is the 2pac paint you are referring to a generic reference to 2-part paints, like epoxies and urethanes? |
Paul (Pcelenta)
New member
Username: Pcelenta
Post Number: 16
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 6:25 am: | |
nevelle,
under what brand name are the celly paints available in the UK? |
Neville Pugh (Nevpugh68)
Junior Member
Username: Nevpugh68
Post Number: 52
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 3:10 am: | |
I wont be spraying the car myself .... I dont have the skill or the location or the tools for the job :-)
David, thanks for the offer, but I can't imagine that after shipping it across the pond it would be very cost effective ! :-)
Here in the UK both celly and 2pac are still widely available. |
David Jones (Dave)
Junior Member
Username: Dave
Post Number: 145
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 5:39 pm: | |
If you decide to go original on the paint,
I happen to have a few cans... all sealed,
of original Glidden Salchi Eurolac Rosso Chiaro 20-R-190 that I might be willing to part with. |
Paul (Pcelenta)
New member
Username: Pcelenta
Post Number: 14
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 1:12 pm: | |
I think it will be difficult to find someone who will paint nitro-cell lacquer these days...most shops seem to be using 2pac exclusively. It is much more cost efficient for them. IMO, nothing beats the gloss and depth of nitro-lacquer...problem is it just isn't very durable...and not just rock chips...sun light, heat, fuel...
If you are painting it yourself and don't intend to use your car as a daily driver...the lacquer will last a long time..and is probably your best bet...it is easy to repair too!
If your car is going to be exposed to the elements...I would go with the 2 pac... |
Neville Pugh (Nevpugh68)
Junior Member
Username: Nevpugh68
Post Number: 51
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 4:20 am: | |
This autumn I'm going to get my 308GTS completely repainted. As I intend to keep the car a long time, I want to go the whole hog and get car stipped back to bare metal (where applicable), just to make sure there are no nasties lurking in the background.
As I'll have the car completely deviod of paint, this brings the option of repainting using original cellulose, or in 2pac.
As I understand it, 2pac is harder and more durable, less prone to chipping, but when it does chip the chip's are bigger, and it has a slightly "false" gloss to it.
Anyone have any thoughts or experiences on 2pac V celly ? (good or bad) |