| Author | Message | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Craig, my Father was a professional photographer, so I kinda have it in me. Digicam is the way to go. I took that photo at around 8pm: setup the lights and the workbench in the garage for the background, took the picture, downloaded it to the computer, adjusted it a bit (sharpness, brightness, photo size) with Adobe Photoshop and had it on this site in about 30min. Simple! A picture is worth a thousand words... Steve, I intend to install an inline filter for my carbon canister to my carbs. Its a Fram G3606 with 5/16" barbs either end. I've heard that sometimes the bits of carbon can clog that tube on the intake manifold. This filter is cheap insurance. It can be used in the same instance. | ||
| Steve (Steve)
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Peter I added another filter inline in between the tank and the stock filter. Just used an off the shelf inline (barbs on each side) filter that you can buy in a parts store. Simple adder to the system and it makes the stock filter last longer plus it is simple to change. Steve | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
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Peter... Off this subject a bit, but I always appreciate your willingness to help by including pictures with your posts. Your photography(and lighting) always looks very professional and makes things easier to understand. I guess I need to get a digital camera too. Thanks again | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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I forgot to add: Remove the wood dowel after epoxy hardens, its used as a form. Helps to wrap the dowel with a silicon or wax paper so the epoxy doesn't glue the stick to the filter! | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Yes Magoo, you do have to drain the tanks...be careful! I cannot give you exact parts to use, but maybe you can find something similar. Basically I found a piece of fine-mesh plastic screen that I had in my garage, wrapped it over a wood dowel (3/4" I believe), capped the end with a plastic cap and glued the whole assembly with an epoxy. Try first any and all of your parts to see if its compatible with gasoline. I made a scrap piece and left it in a jar of gasoline for about three weeks, it all held up. If it didn't work, my second choice was a coffee filter made out of stainless steel (again a fine-mesh screen).It was all held on to the fitting by re-crimping the original seam. The picture shows mine to be longer. If there was any discrepancy between the filter sizes, I figured the more surface area of filtration, the less restriction. At almost 6" long, it still fits nicely in the tank. The original has a fused seam which eventually split over time. Made worse as I removed it because the end-seam is wider than the opening (so folding it to pass ripped it open more). Hope this helps in some way, sorry I can't give you specifics. When making it, I just made it up as I went along.  | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Peter give me a little more info on how you made your own filter. I don't think mine has been changed. It looks like you have to drain the tank first? MAGOO | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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When my fuel-level sending unit was out, I noticed only a vertical baffle in that tank (including a cut-out for that float to travel). Steve, you mention twin filters, you mean the FIAMM filter in the canister PLUS the outlet filter on the bottom of the tank? I can assure you that last one is expensive, so I made my own. | ||
| Steve (Steve)
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My 77 reacts the same way. They must not have a damper on the tank float. What you are getting is the float moving up and down with the fuel as it sloshes in the tanks. There must not be any tank dampers either. I use the warning light on the gauge as my last ditch reading besides how many miles I've traveled. Example , if the light blinks then I've got about 50 miles left but when it goes on solid then its about 10-15 miles. Also need to make sure your tank is CLEAN if you use this method , don't want to plug the twin fuel filters. Steve | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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The way the unit works is a float on the end of a long wire-arm. The pivot is a rheostat that sends the electrical signal to the guage. The same thing happens in my daily driver (Mitsubishi). | ||
| Neil Green (Neilg)
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Thanks for the feedback. The reason it caught my eye is because I don't remember it ever moving like that before. But from what I'm hearing, it appears to be normal.. it will fluxuate slightly while stationary, but solid enough so I can tell when to hit the gas station! | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Most older fuel tank gauges will vary as the gas moves from side to side or back and forward. In my Jeep it is pretty unnoticable because it doesn't corner fast or move fast in general. In the Ferrari the gas can move around more because there are greater forces on it, and I don't think that it is that great a system anyway. My gauge starts to read empty at about half a tank. I just know how much gas I have by the odometer. You can approximate close enough so I don't pay attention to the gas gauge. | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Does the same thing on my 79 308 GTS.If it fluctuates whenever you are driving and into a curve or on a hill, this is normal. It moves slowly and calibrates slowly. Just have to be aware of when you are on level road or when you stop on level surfaces then check the guage. MAGOO. | ||
| Neil Green (Neilg)
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Have had a pesky problem with my 1977 308GTB. The fuel gauge will fluxuate from time to time anywheres from 1/4 to 3/4 tank in reading variation. I have already changed the sending unit in the left gas tank, as well as the fuel gauge in the dash itself. Still experiencing the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to look next? Thanks. |