| Author |
Message |
1975GT4Don (1975gt4don)
New member
Username: 1975gt4don
Post Number: 39
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 3:36 pm: | |
Richelson, that is why I used the word "if" you can find them :-( Not a very easy part to find new or used, it doesn't matter. What is even harder to find, are those diffuser thingys that stick into the exhaust port for the air injection system. There were two different kinds used on the carbed 308's. Since most owners disconnected the air pumps right away after purchase of their 308's, the air pumps ceased as talked about on this thread and this also causes the air injection rails to corrode due to the hot exhaust gases passing back up into the air injection rails. The tips of the injection rails that connects to the air diffusers corrode badly and frequently break in half causing exhaust leaks. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 593
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 3:14 pm: | |
I had no idea the rails and injectors were worth this much. Is this new or if you can find them used? |
1975GT4Don (1975gt4don)
New member
Username: 1975gt4don
Post Number: 38
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 2:56 pm: | |
BretM and the others, wise choice to save those parts. Those air injector rails (if you can find them) on the carbed 308's are over $650 each. I had mine welded back together after the tips of the injector broke apart. I don't have airpumps on mine---waiting for the 30 year grandfather clause to kick in here in California. In the meantime, I just use other license plates :-) |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 1968
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 1:56 pm: | |
The one that was stuck on mine also broke, I couldn't get the nut to spin freely on the injector so I just said the hell with it and let it break as I unscrewed it. I'll weld it back together once I'm done with the rebuild, then store it with my growing piles of stock parts to no longer be used. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 590
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 6:45 am: | |
Thanks Jeff. I had a feeling it would be hard with the engine in. |
Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
Junior Member
Username: Jbk
Post Number: 62
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 6:28 am: | |
All the injectors on mine were rusted together. The only way I got them out was to cut the pipe just before the hex. Then they unscrewed from the head easily. Did this after the engine was out. Before pulling the engine, I just capped the line after removing the diaphragm valve. A standard pipe cap fit since the threads were pipe threads. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 579
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 12:53 pm: | |
Thanks for the info Bret. I will look at it and see if I can make a plan. |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 1961
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 12:33 pm: | |
The sinistra bank will be no problem really. You should be able to get them from top, if worse came to worse you could also get at them from underneath. The destra bank will be a little more interesting. If you pull the wheel well you might be able to get at the end injectors, you also may be able to get at them from above. I guess it depends on how flexible you are. The middle ones I think you'll have to come from underneath to get to be honest. One of my injectors was stuck as hell, the others came off pretty easy. I did this with the engine out though for the destra bank. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 572
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 10:18 am: | |
I see your point. My hoses are quite old and are the braided type and I didn't know if it was even functioning properly. I wasn't expecting to gain any power but I thought it might remove some of the clutter in the engine compartment. Just a thought but it isn't necessary. I don't have the smog pump on the other side either. I have never seen the second smog pump on one before. Both of mine were removed before I purchased the car. I think that the diverter valve is still in place. I can work on pulling out the air injectors. They have been in there for some time so I am not sure how easy they will come out. I do still have the CO test pipes. What is the best way to get at the air injectors? |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 100
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 9:55 am: | |
I would imagine your canister will still work, it may have a filter on the underside, Im not sure. Alot of older domestic cars had filters in them that could be cleaned. There is no advantage to removing or eliminating the canister. The vapours have to go somewhere so you might as well reburn them rather than dump them into your engine compartment or outside. When the car sits outside in the summer sun, it might smell like you have a fuel leak if you are venting to the atmosphere. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 564
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 6:01 am: | |
I would imagine that it isn't functioning anymore. Do they still sell CCs? If mine is not functional I would removal would effect anything. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1666
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 7:19 pm: | |
I installed the carbon canister on my car, as my three-way valve was just dumping vapours from the fuel tanks into the engine bay (the hose was just dangling there)... Not a good thing!
Judging by my '79 GT4 Parts Catalogue, the carbon canister is onto itself, no other ties with the emissions system.
I'm sure then your canister is original? It'll be a good idea to replace it. |
David Jones (Dave)
Junior Member
Username: Dave
Post Number: 73
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 2:23 pm: | |
By the way Rich, You say that the smog pump is removed.
Early US 308's have 2 smog pumps, one for each bank.
One driven by the cam at the rear of the engine, and one driven by the front belt system...
The former owner of my 308 cut the belt to the pump you see on top, thinking he was getting better performance by doing away with the smog crap. Well the diverter valve went bad allowing an exhaust leak back into the pump, which melted under the heat, the muffler blew a hole in it, and the header cracked. Not a good thing!
It took a little work to get the car running right... Including a new Tubi muffler, and another set of headers which I bought from Steve, and then had coated inside and out by HPC.
So take care when removing smog gear... |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 587
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 11:21 am: | |
Rich -- Ditto what Paul N. said. The sphere is the vacuum reservoir used to power the actuator that moves and keeps the airbox flap closed after engine shutoff while the little blower motor moves the fuel vapors into the charcoal canister (part of the fuel evap. control system). |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 554
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 10:56 am: | |
Actually I have a 1978 308. I am looking for an injected car though. I am not sure if I want to make the switch but I will keep thinking about it. Do you think my Charcoal Can. still works properly? What does the circular ball do? |
David Jones (Dave)
Junior Member
Username: Dave
Post Number: 69
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 8:35 am: | |
If I remember right you have a QV...
Do they not smog test where you live?
You might want to get a copy of the parts book.
It has an outline of all the smog gear on your car,
that way you know what stays and what goes, before you start tearing stuff out... |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 99
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 8:10 am: | |
I would remove the rest of the system because its useless without the pump in place. Keep it all together in a box if you sell the car or need to reinstall it in the future. I would remove the air injection manifolds and plug the holes with a proper plug but I would try to leave the evap hooked up. It wont affect your power assist nor will it hurt your engine operation with all that stuff removed. The canister holds fuel vapours and reburns them when you drive, so leave it hooked up. You may have to reroute hoses to make it work, Im not sure if its integrated into the rest of the pollution control or not. If so, it isnt hard to run a line here and plug another one elsewhere. |
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 549
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 5:44 am: | |
Since we have been talking about emissions equipment I am not sure whether I should remove the rest of it or not. My car has the smog pump removed however, I still have my air injectors, diverter valve, charcoal canister, a circular ball connected over by the charcoal canister, and I have no cats on the car. It would make for more room in the engine compartment but I don't want to remove something and cause rough running etc. I noticed that the charcoal canister has a connection that runs to the side of one of my carbs. Is it safe to disconnect it as it could be a vacuum line and would I need to plug it off some how. Could it effect the vacuum that is used by my vac. assisted brakes? I guess you can see where I am going with this. |