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Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson

Post Number: 598
Registered: 12-2001
Posted on Thursday, March 14, 2002 - 8:49 am:   

I agree with Magoo but while you have them out you might want to consider it. Check and see if it has a large lip at the end of the rotor. The bigger the lip at the end the more the rotor is worn.
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo

Post Number: 2128
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 10:26 pm:   

Donny, If the rotors don't pulsate I wouldn't have them turned. As far as the rotor turning machine is concernd it depends on the individual shop, hard to tell. I wouldn't worry about it unless you want to clean up the surface a little bit.
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 52
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 9:24 pm:   

My Rx7 rear rotors had extra holes tapped into their hubs. It was very convenient to put a bolt into one or two of them, tighten it up & off they came. (This was after lots of soaking w/PB Blaster penetrant & banging on a wooden block(duh).)

To make life easier next time, You might want to drill & tap a hole 1/2 way between two of the lug bolt holes(ie: in the same relative position as the locating pins for the wheel. Lube the threads good with anti-sieze to keep them from rusting up.

Hmm, come to think of it, what do you find when you pull one of the locating pins? Maybe a nice convenient hole to put a bolt into???

Also, give the rotor's center hole & matching hub nub a thin coating of anti-sieze.

Life will be much easier next time.
Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
New member
Username: Wildcatfans

Post Number: 34
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Wednesday, March 13, 2002 - 7:17 pm:   

Got them off. I was right, the hammer was too small. I soaked them with Kroil for a couple of days and used a small block of wood to rest against the rotors and smacked it. As I rotated it around I started noticing the rotors moving ever so slightly. Once it broke free it came right off. The front was easily removed with just a tugg.

Any suggestions on who I should allow to turn them? Is Pep Boy's or Napa OK, or should I search for a quality machine shop? I don't think the rotors are warped, the car didn't shake when I brake. I just want to make sure.
Timothy J. Dressel (Tjd)
New member
Username: Tjd

Post Number: 46
Registered: 4-2001
Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 6:17 pm:   

Sometimes heat helps in such situations. --tim d
Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson

Post Number: 578
Registered: 12-2001
Posted on Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 11:43 am:   

I think Bill is right. A rubber mallet is a good choice.
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member
Username: Bill308

Post Number: 117
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 8:23 pm:   

Donny,

I assume your disk setup is the same as my 78. Once the caliper has been removed, the only other thing meant to retain the disk are the 2-alignment pins for each wheel or perhaps some substitute bolts if the pins not there.

The clearance between the barrel of the hub and the bore of the disk is very snug. This area is prone to rust. It might be helpful to soak this area with a rust penetrant and also try to get some between the back of the disk and the hub flange and work it. Some moderate axial tapping with a soft faced hammer my enable the penetrant to work its way between the disk and hub. Once you've established some movement, penetrating oil and movement will eventually free it up. Bill
Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
New member
Username: Wildcatfans

Post Number: 32
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Monday, March 11, 2002 - 6:33 pm:   

I'm in the process of changing out brake pads and new fluid. While I am at it I thought I would have the rotors resurfaced. I've got the rear calipers off but cannot get the rotors off. Carl's Tech Tips says they are easily removed with a 5mm Allen key. I cannot find this mysterious Allen screw and my parts manual makes no reference to it.

Am I just using too small a hammer?!!

Thanks in advance,
Donny

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