| Author | Message | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 22 Registered: 2-2002 |
Edward and all, I went out to the garage tonight determined to get the shaft out. Last Saturday I slipped the Baum tool I bought to remove my rear suspension ring nut on the shaft.(it is about 10" long and heavy) then I put a hose clamp on the end of the shaft and JB welded it on. Tonight I heated up the area around the bearing and like a slapper puller I slammed the tool down a couple of times and the shaft came out! Well I was excited as now it was out but there is so little room under the bearing I had been researching pullers and could not find one small enough to get in or under the bearing. I figured what do I have to lose so against my better judgment I tapped the shaft again into the bearing then bang bang bang and the bearing came out of the block!!! I am pretty stoked and will put a new bearing in on Saturday and try to start over! Thanks for all your suggestions!   | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 909 Registered: 2-2001 |
I used a slide hammer on my car that is normally used to remove pilot bearings. In your situation I would cut off the shaft and thread the end of it and use a spacer and thread a nut onto it and use it as a puller. | ||
| Matt Boyd (Mattboyd)
New member Username: Mattboyd Post Number: 7 Registered: 1-2002 |
Robert, I can't remember how I got my inner bearings out. Some type of puller probably. Maybe if you get some type of dremel on steroids and grind out one of the balls in the bearing, then get some type of puller inside the bearing (between the inner and outer race)? You could, of course, bring it to your trusted machine shop. They'll probably have some ideas. Please keep us posted, as I'm curious as to how you'll resolve this. -matt | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 21 Registered: 2-2002 |
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| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 20 Registered: 2-2002 |
Edward and all, Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. I have one of the earliest engines and not only are there no flats on my cam shafts but also no alignment marks. I sat down and examined my photos and diagrams and I was certain I thought I knew what I was doing then disaster struck. My right inner cam timing pulley inner bearing cam off with the shaft and cover. I removed the left one by heating the area around the bearing with a butane torch then tapped a shaft into it and pulled and it came right out. I put the new bearings in the freezer and heated up the block again and the left one slipped right in. I has a harder time getting the right one in with the same proceedure. Since they had no lube in them I put a small amount of permetex engine assembly lube on both and noticed a tick in the right bearing &*%$#@@!!. I decide to remove it and get another one as they were not expensive and although I am not an expert on bearings this seemed smart. I then gently tapped the same shaft in the bearing heated up the block and nothing. Now I have a 4 foot long shaft sticking out of my engine and i am not sure what to do. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Unless I get some better suggestions I think I need to get a hotter flame to raise the temp of the area around the block. The engine absorbses so much heat that even after 2 minutes or so with the butane torch on the area when you touch it it is not even hot! ??????? image{shaft in bearing} | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 902 Registered: 2-2001 |
There are alignment marks on the back side of the cam pulley flanges that with care can be aligned with the valve cover centerline eliminating the need to remove the valve covers. | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 18 Registered: 2-2002 |
Matt and all, I just did this less than 2000 miles ago. New bearings, adjust valves, new seals etc. Everything was spot on. i just spent 4 months on my rear suspension. and want to drive the car. it was running perfect before the cam drive pulley bearing started to go so I marked the cam seals and shafts, the belts, the timing pulleys, timing shafts, and it is exactly at TDC. I could be wrong but I am assuming that everything will go back exactly as I removed it.......I am already paranoid but it took me about 6 months (I work 6 days a week) to remove clean, paint, restore, change parts, etc and I was hoping i did not have to do this once a year! | ||
| Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member Username: Newman Post Number: 105 Registered: 12-2001 |
The timing of the cam drive gears is not important. The flywheel determines crank position and the cam notches in relation to the caps aligns them. The position on those drive gears makes no difference and you will find that the notches on the front cover above the gears dont line right up anyway. They are just a reference but I wouldn t go by them anyway. Matt is right, I would like to see the lines on the cams. Mine were exactly lined up prior to dissassembly and I could see how you could be out a tooth without pulling the cam covers. | ||
| Matt Boyd (Mattboyd)
New member Username: Mattboyd Post Number: 6 Registered: 1-2002 |
Robert, What I'm reading here is that you have obviously removed the cam belts. What this implies to me is that you are putting new cam belts on (and hopefully new tensioner bearings). I would highly recommend pulling the valve covers off and checking the alignment of the markings of the camshafts with respect to the camshaft caps at PM1-4 TDC. Others can provide a counterpoint, but I would say that you're definitely going to be off a hair (at least) if you don't check this. I've been told that you can't be off by even as much as a "gnat's ass" on this. -Matt | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1708 Registered: 12-2000 |
I experienced little effort when popping the front cover back on, with the gear spindles slipping easily into the bearings. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 901 Registered: 2-2001 |
No, the shaft is designed to fit into the small bearings when the cover is installed. Make sure the keyways on both shafts are pointing up with the engine at TDC when you install the cover. | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 15 Registered: 2-2002 |
Steve and all, Tomorrow I am going to put the timing cover on. the manual says to Press the two inner bearings in the block them assemble the front cover. This will make the timing gear shafts press into the inner races. Won't this put undo strain on the small bearings? Rob Pressed out the outer timing gear and bearings, no problem here I just used a press and heat gun. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 591 Registered: 1-2001 |
Rob -- I think "someone" is referring to keeping the drive gear relationships to the crank gear the same so that the belt teeth on the pulleys are in the same place (i.e., I think the pitch of the belt drive teeth on the pulley doesn't match the pitch of the teeth on the driven gear so if you're off 1 tooth at the gear, the cam pulley is NOT also rotated exactly 1 belt tooth). "I marked my cam seals, pulleys, belts, gear shafts, etc." -- good move. | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
New member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 12 Registered: 2-2002 |
Hey Guys, I am going to remove and replace the bearings in my timing cover tomorrow at my brother-in-laws who has a press. I was wondering if anyone had and suggestions or preferences for replacing the seals. I have the early engine, where the seal is right behind the pulley. They came off pretty easy. I would imagine after you get the whole assembly together you would press the seal on, or would you press it in before you press the gear shaft into the bearing. I know that those seals have the spring on them and some times they pop off. I was going to use white grease on the seals as that is what many told me when I did my cam seals. I had more difficulty removing the crank gear seal, hammering it with a wooden dowel from behind. I was going to press this in first as the timing cover will be flatter (excepting the oil pump). I was also wondering about the oil pump, should I take it apart and check for tolerances or just leave it alone. I have another question. I decided not to take my valve covers off as I just did a major service 1.5 years ago, I marked my cam seals, pulleys, belts, gear shafts, etc. Someone told me the drive gears have to go back on the same way or it will trow off the timing. (this will be easy as I marked everything) I do not understand this though as the crank shaft turns ½ the speed of the pulley teeth and gears it would seem that it would not matter, unless the gears turn at a different ratio which does not make sense to me? (frozen caveman lawyer) Rob :-) |