| Author | Message | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 56 Registered: 5-2001 |
Rob, re:"Do you remove the shocks or the hinge bolts first." See my earlier post in this thread. I unbolted hinges 1st, then gas springs. Used an extendable aluminum brush handle as an adjustable prop to support it while removing the springs. (There's a nice hole about dead center of the bonnet that the prop will fit into. Stuff some paper towel into it 1st, & be gentle as the top of the hole is the bonnet skin.) Come to think of it, the prop was taking the load off of the springs, maybe I could have taken them off 1st & just used it.. Nah, not a good idea, when the 1st hinge sagged down, the bonnet would want to tip to one side, could loose it... The gas springs tended to keep it level. It's easy to keep it from tipping while you're undoing the springs as you're already at the rear of the car... (sorry abut the stream of unconsciousness) BTW, Jbk's engine hoist suggestion makes sense. Mine was loaned out at the time. I already had the car up on my lift with the wheels off, otherwise I guess I could have used a lift arm w/straps to lift it off. Hmm, it could then be lowered onto the roof rack of another car for temporary storage/moving around... | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 597 Registered: 1-2001 |
Rob -- they're actually gas springs (not shocks), but I appreciate your dilemma (carbed 308's have the prop-rod so no experience here). | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 1247 Registered: 12-2000 |
You users rock! I went out there yesterday and it only took 5 minutes to adjust it perfectly based on the three alignment holes on each side. Do you remove the shocks or the hinge bolts first. Without the shocks, you would have to have something hold it up to remove the hinge bolts. However, what happens when you remove the hinge bolts first? | ||
| Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
Junior Member Username: Jbk Post Number: 66 Registered: 4-2001 |
I regularly take the bonnet off and put it on by myself and have actually gotten fairly quick with it. I prop it slightly open with a brace in the luggage compartment and put a nylon strap around each side. Then I support the straps with my engine hoist (cherry picker) and remove the attachment bolts. After that, just jack it up and pull it away. Be careful to put some cardboard or something at the roof edge to avoid gouges. Putting it back on is just the opposite. Takes 1/2 hr at the most. | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Junior Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 244 Registered: 10-2001 |
Russ, to start a new thread (you'll want to repeat the question you just asked to get the best responses), goto either section you are interested in (General Discussion, Technical, etc.) and scroll to the bottom of all the topics under that section. At the bottom, you'll see a link to start a new thread. | ||
| Russ Fairbanks (Russf)
New member Username: Russf Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2002 |
I have a 328 an the seat backs are lose. I am told that I have to take the seats out to tighten them up. Can anyone get me started on this. By the way I am a first time user and cannot figure out how to start a new thread. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1691 Registered: 12-2000 |
What you guys need is a GT4!  . You do need a person on each side to undo the bolts, but the lid is light enough for a little fella like me to lift. Before removing, I made DISCRETE marks of the hinge positions (their footprint on the lid frame). When re-attaching, my Dad and I lined up the hinges to the marks and voila! I didn't even have to adjust the lock-pin, shut the first time. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 1998 Registered: 2-2001 |
When I did it I just opened it, marked the bolts, and loosened them all. Then I got my dad and told him to hold on side while I held the other. I told him if he dropped it I'd wreck him. Then I took out my bolts holding it up, and he took out his at the same time, we took it off and put it on a piece of carpet on the ground. I didn't even get to hit him. No tape or any other padding, I think I may have let the cover drape in there (it was covering the front of the car still). I heard a couple guys use tie downs hanging fron the ceiling when they take them off by themself. A tie down at each corner and then pull one up a little, move to the next and pull it up a little, etc. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 53 Registered: 5-2001 |
I pulled my bonnet last spring when I was replacing the front bank cam seals. USE MASKING TAPE David has the right idea, you need to protect both the car body & the upper front edges of the bonnet. I put a couple of layers of masking tape on both the body & the bonnet(saw this at a F* dealer when they were pulling a bonnet). AND HEAVY FENDER COVERS I then slid a pair of Craftsman Professional fender covers into the gap between the bonnet & the body. They're nice & thick and won't easily tear or rip. I hadn't noticed the alignment holes, so I scribed around the hinges before loostening the bolts. Once the bolts were loose, the bonnet settled down firmly against the fender covers. I then removed the bolts & just rested the bonnet on the fender covers while I unfastened the gas springs. As I recall, the hinges kept it from slipping sideways while I was undoing the gas springs. From the rear of the car I was able to pick the bonnet up & carry it to an old bed pad I'd laid out on top of my pop-up camper. (I do NOT recommend doing this by yourself. My back was sore for a month, & I nearly dropped it.) I had a couple of people help me re-install it. I don't think one person can do it by himself, even if he's Mr. T or a Patriots lineman. It's just too heavy & the leverage is wrong. Again, the fender covers helped get the initial gap pretty close on. I finally noticed the two alignment holes, slipped drill bits into them & after 3-4 tries got things aligned. | ||
| david schirmer (David)
Junior Member Username: David Post Number: 227 Registered: 2-2001 |
I believe the alignment holes are standard. I also use two shop towels up top to prevent bumping the buttresses against the roof and scratching the paint. It is always a two person job. | ||
| Richelson (Richelson)
Member Username: Richelson Post Number: 617 Registered: 12-2001 |
Rob, I always put my bonnet on a thick bed comforter, wrap it up and then set it on my floor in a safe place. Also when aligning the bonnet make sure the front doesn't hit the paint up near the roof of the car. It can tend to wear the paint in this area. Hope this helps. | ||
| Richelson (Richelson)
Member Username: Richelson Post Number: 616 Registered: 12-2001 |
Steve, that is a good idea. I have had my bonnet off so many times. I have now figured out a way to get the airbox with filter off without removing the bonnet. Makes it much easier. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 593 Registered: 1-2001 |
Rob -- I've got to admit that not having to take the engine bonnet off has been one of the nice things about the TR. I don't know if all 308s have this or it was something a previous caretaker added to my ex-308, but it had 2 (well-spaced) ~5mm diamter alignment holes drilled thru the flat end of each hinge arm and thru the wall of the engine bonnet underneath. Line those 4 holes up with pins, tighten the bolts, and viola! -- perfect realignment. If you've now got your bonnet where you want it you might consider drilling a couple of small realignment holes (1/8" would probably be OK) right thru each hinge arm and the engine bonnet wall so for the next reassembly you can easily repeat the same position. | ||
| John Ames (Ameshouse)
New member Username: Ameshouse Post Number: 34 Registered: 1-2002 |
Rob, My car has two holes on each side which seem to line up the bonnet with the hinges. It looks like I can put in a couple of small drill bits in each side and then tighten the bolts. Mind you I have not removed my bonnet yet, so this is only speculation... | ||
| Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
Junior Member Username: Owens84qv Post Number: 239 Registered: 10-2001 |
I was surprised, almost shocked you set the rear bonnet on the front of the car. I probably would've gotten a couple of thick blankets on the garage floor and placed it there. As far as tips and tricks, I've positioned my body in the most aweful positions so I wouldn't have to remove the bonnet...my day is coming though. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 1240 Registered: 12-2000 |
I already did this today, but I didn't know if I could of done an better job at it. It's very heavy and one person can't do it alone. I put two jack stands in the trunk space to support it up after removing the shocks. I then loosened all the bolts and had Jennie remove them on one side, as I did the other. We then lifted it up together and let it sit on the front of the car (car cover was still on front). Putting it back on we pretty much did everything backwards. Adjusting it is where I would like to get people's advice. This is almost as bad as adjusting the doors, if not worse because it's so heavy. Too many adjustments to get it to close without hitting the roof edge and then to make sure all the gaps around the car were perfect and the trunk would latch. |