| Author | Message | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2102 Registered: 2-2001 |
Funny you say that Verell, when I went home for Easter my dad had a couple boxes of those he picked up. If I was smart I would use them. Sam I think you'd have a hell of a time threading that teflon hose through, but if you did get it through it would probably help. I found that trying to do the job alone made you want to throw a brick through the windshield of the damn car. As soon as you get someone to help you though (and either push or pull, whichever you aren't) it goes through reasonably easy. Not easy, but not gonna drive you mass murder or something. I didn't lube up the hoses at all, but that would help I assume. It's just a matter of paying your dues with this job. | ||
| Sam NYCFERRARIS (Sam)
Member Username: Sam Post Number: 327 Registered: 4-2001 |
I might be attempting the dreaded heater hose job soon ( fool that I am), I was thinking of threading a very pliable teflon or silicon tube through first and then slipping the heater hoses (properly lubed with silicon spray as well) easily through the ID of this tube or "sock", I theory there should be very little friction inside the tube and might make it easier to make the "hand hamburger" 90 degree bend....any thougths from someone who has actually done this? might this work better than the push/pull/curse/give -up/I hate this car/oh wait it moved an inch...problem. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 59 Registered: 5-2001 |
Bret, re:"permanently black hands from a mixture of grease, gas, oil, black spray paint, and zinc galvo spray" Sounds familiar, very macho.. (been there, done that). TRY NITRILE GLOVES!!! I spent years with my hands looking like a coal miners every weekend. Then someone talked me into trying a pair of disposable nitrile gloves (www.harborfreight.com). What a difference!! I don't cut myself so often either. They're quite thin, but tough & solvent resistant. Even lacquer thinner won't eat them up!! | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2041 Registered: 2-2001 |
I'm missing that damn straight piece that converts from 5/8" to 1/2" (from the valve to the inside of the passenger heater core) so I can't really say I'm done, but it'll only take a second to put that in when it finally turns up.  | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2040 Registered: 2-2001 |
I replaced all the front ones yesterday while my dad started making the fan bracket (for the Haydens). My hands got cut up, but it went a lot better than I thought it would. It looks so nice now. The only thing that annoyed me was the heater cores, the passenger is a lot easier to put back in. It just takes a little patience and some blood shed. | ||
| Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 80 Registered: 11-2001 |
I just did mine heater hoses replacement in the front trunk this weekend. It was not easy. My neighbor and I took 2 hours pulling and shoving the hoses through. THe vaccuum hose was stiff and was harder to do than the heater hose. We had to take off both access ports, splice the old and new hoses together with a long socket and hose clamps, and grease the corners where the hoses make a bend, and heaved and pulled the vacuum hose through. Then I spend the next 4 hours getting to all the other smaller hoses in the front trunk. I did end up removing the heater boxes but probably could have gotten it done without having to. The coolant did make a mess. I hope to not do that again any time soon. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2028 Registered: 2-2001 |
I haven't gotten to putting back everything yet, just picked up my valve springs at WWoC (gag, cost, ouch) and got the heater cores back from the radiator guy. Tonight or early tomorrow morning I will be hitting up the cooling system. I think I will make up the T with just the two 1/2" pieces on it, then when I get it in I'll put on the 5/8" piece. I'll tell you guys how it goes, have to get it done before I go back to school on Sunday. Thanks again. | ||
| Matt Boyd (Mattboyd)
New member Username: Mattboyd Post Number: 5 Registered: 1-2002 |
Bret, this doesn't apply to you because you're farther along than this, but for others who might be reading this thread later.... I was able to get at that heater hose "T" and remove all heater hoses without removing heater cores/boxes or anything. One thing to note is that it might be a good time to replace your clamps as well. What I did was buy a stash of ABA clamps (these are very nice clamps), and I also bought the ABA tool to tighten the clamps. All the ABA clamps have the same hex head (you can use a normal screwdriver or nut driver). This tool looks like a screwdriver, but the shaft is rigid but slightly flexible. This will help you tighten hard to get at hose clamps. When I put new heater hoses in, I put a tiny bit more in at the "T" so that in the event there is a "next time" it will be easier to access this. -Matt PS-Hi back to you, Kelly! My parents are driving back from New Orleans as I type! | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2023 Registered: 2-2001 |
Don't remind me, two of my close friends from up at school went to the Bahamas this week. They flew to Florida (where the one kid lives) and took their boat from Florida to Freeport. Me on the other hand has permanently black hands from a mixture of grease, gas, oil, black spray paint, and zinc galvo spray (for that little sparkle touch). And I love it. I got next to nothing done today Ferrari related. Got 1/2" Gates hose, pulled the seats, cleaned the interior, pulled a piece of carpet, put back together the brake assembly (where it attaches to the booster, started to take it apart before I realized the brake lines would hold the booster in place). Today I made a bike rack. It came out really nice. Made it for a class 3 hitch (made one for the jeep on Monday) and to fit the Cannondale, locks down the fork since it has that funky frame design. It came out great, but took time away from the Fcar. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 408 Registered: 9-2001 |
Bret I give you a lot of credit, most guys would be down in cancun with the ladies on their spring break.  | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2021 Registered: 2-2001 |
Today I'm gonna try and finish the hoses. I managed to con my dad into working with me all day so I figure it's a good opportunity. I keep getting side tracked here, like yesterday started taking some of the interior apart, which is why I am not getting these hoses done in a timely fashion. I got the heater hose out of the front, cut it in the middle with a long knife. I have both heater cores removed, a bunch of ducts, etc in the front so all should go well. Thanks guys. I'll also make sure to snap some pics as it has been quite a while (and quite a bit has changed) since the last time. | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 125 Registered: 5-2001 |
Bret, I also had problems getting the brake vacuum booster hose past the 90-degree bend. Try this: 1. Loosen the driver�s side gas tank and move it aft as far as possible, to gain some clearance near the bulkhead. 2. Attach a length of wire, I used 0.050-inch stainless wire because that�s what I had, to the end of the hose, after first leading it through the sill from the front wheel opening to the tank area. Taper the transition from hose to wire with tape or other means. 3. Trim the other end of the wire where it exits from the wheel area and form a strong loop in it. If you have a helper, they can insert a screwdriver or other tool into this loop, for a better grip. I didn�t have a helper, so I rigged a 3:1 pulley system and led the free end back to the rear wheel area from where I could pull on it using my right hand. 4. Begin feeding the booster hose over the tank and down the back side of the bulkhead, while applying tension to the pull wire, until it reaches the 90-degree bend. 5. From below the rear wheel area, while on your back, feet toward the front of the car, you can reach around the edge of the bulkhead, with your left hand and fingers extended, and just barely touch the end of the hose. With tension on the wire, you can work the end of the booster hose until it passes the edge of the 90-degree bend. Once past this obstruction, it should be smooth sailing. | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 124 Registered: 5-2001 |
Bret, The T-fitting and the attached return hoses, under the cowl, can be pulled out for access, but it isn�t easy. Try this: 1. Remove the passenger side heater core, to gain access to its water return hose, and remove the hose. I didn't find it necessary to remove the driver's side heater core but it wouldn't hurt. 2. Remove the drivers side heater core return hose. 3. Attach new hose to the liberated ends of both old heater hoses. It might help to coat the new heater core hoses with silicone spray to help them slide into place. You will need abut 4-feet of new hose for each side to facilitate installation. I pushed some vacuum hose inside the ends of the heater hose, as a flexible alignment dowel, then used 2-loops of tie wire, through the ends of the mating hoses and 90 degrees to each other, to wire them together. After tightly twisting the ends of the wire and bending the twisted ends against the hose to minimize the chances of the twisted ends from catching on anything, I then wrapped the joint with a layer or two of electrical tape to again make sure the wire didn�t catch on anything. 4. Loop a 4-foot length of strong cord or light rope over the driver�s side heater hose and tie the ends together, forming a loop. Slide this length of cord along the length of the driver�s side hose, about half way toward the T-fitting and thread the tied end of the cord to the central area of the cowl where you can grab it. 5. The idea is to pull the cord toward the right front head light of the car, causing the driver�s side heater hose to kink or buckle. Simultaneously, pull the large, central return hose, and push the new heater core hoses toward the T-fitting. With some work, the T-fitting, with its attached hoses, will emerge from under the cowl. Continue pulling the hoses until the new hose ends become accessible. 6. Cut the wired ends of the new heater hoses off, remove the old hoses from the T-fitting, fit the new ones and you are ready to re-insert the hose assembly. 7. Alternately, pull on each heater core hose and push on the larger return hose until the T-fitting is back were it should be. 8. Trim the heater core hoses to length, install them on the heater cores, and then reinstall the heater boxes. | ||
| Kelly J. Vince (Tifosi1)
Junior Member Username: Tifosi1 Post Number: 165 Registered: 2-2002 |
Matt, Welcome aboard. I did not know you were watching Ferrari Chat. Guys, Matt knows what he is talking about and has a lot of experience in the 308 world. Good to here from you, Kelly | ||
| Mark J. Foley (Sparky)
New member Username: Sparky Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2002 |
McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/is a great source for hoses. They have some Coast Guard Approved Hose (1 3/8" ID) that works for the Fuel Sleeve and they have a heavy duty heater hose that has a metal spiral wire in it that would work great for the vaccum hose. It even looks like the original stuff. Search forBuna Nitrile hose. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2019 Registered: 2-2001 |
Thanks. I'm pretty sure I didn't move any clip in the back to get the heater hose through, just the one in the front wheel well. It worked then fine, but with this rubber pipe of a booster hose I think I'm gonna have to rethink my plan of attack here. Maybe break that tank mount off like Paul said (Dad can always weld it back on if needed, no gas in the car so I don't think he'll have a problem with that). I have a sneaking suspicion that there is a clip behind where the tank would be and that I have been fighting it all along. When you guys replaced hoses in front did you pull the brake booster to get at that "T" connection near the dash vents? The "T" connects the back hoses of the heater cores and then goes down to the big pipe that brings coolant from the radiator to the engine, or away from it, can't remember which. I took out the heater cores and sent them to get cleaned out (just to make sure). | ||
| Matt Boyd (Mattboyd)
New member Username: Mattboyd Post Number: 4 Registered: 1-2002 |
I did both of these hoses about a year ago. I sourced the heater hose from a local shop (Gates Green Stripe). The brake booster hose I sourced from Rutlands or GT Car parts as I recall. The way I got it through was to remove the driver side fuel tank, move back the clips holding the hoses that others have mentioned, remove the wheel well cover just behind the driver front wheel, there is another clip there holding the hoses that you can move back. I took the two hoses to a plumbing shop and found a kind of union that was threaded on both ends and would thread into the rubber just a bit so that once you turn it a few turns you could not pull it out of the hose. I then threaded it into the old hose, threaded the new hose onto the union and pulled the new hose through. I fed the new hoses from the rear and pushed from the rear a tiny bit, then went to the front and pulled a tiny bit. Hope this helps. -Matt | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2017 Registered: 2-2001 |
Sorry Mitchell, it's closer to 1/2" id. I picked it up today, a gates hose that is basically a reinforced heater hose, it's pretty diesel, can handle a ton of pressure. I got it from a rubber company (Metropolitan Rubber, near the projects in Hackensack for any of you NJ guys) that had more hose than I have ever seen in my life. It was like the motherload. On a more humorous note, there will be plenty of cursing coming from the shop trying to get this relatively stiff hose through there. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2014 Registered: 2-2001 |
Yeah it is about that size Mitchell. I went to WWoC today and they didnt have it. Gonna try some more people today. I think that I should replace it. It's a pain, finally found 5/8" fuel hose for the FI vent into the tank. Now I have to try and find giant vacuum hose. I'll get it eventually. Got the heater hose through last night with the help of my dad. Now all I have to do is figure out how to replace those hoses behind the vents in the front compartment. I removed the heater cores so gonna bring them over to my radiator guy to have him boil them out, and to pick up my expansion tank. Then more heater hoses today. | ||
| Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 79 Registered: 11-2001 |
Bret The vaccuum hose is also 5/8 in ID right? | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2006 Registered: 2-2001 |
I didn't get the vacuum hose, I'm a bit leary to replace it as it works and I would really hate to get something that collapsed in there. I'm still kind of up in the air about replacing it. If I were to order it I would try jegs.com or one of the big part sources and get a real good hose. I have a lot of other work so I've been avoiding doing this project while I do more fun things like clean pistons, etc. The coolant hose I just got regular 5/8" coolant hose from my local parts guy. Those stock hoses are a mess, it's like brown pudding inside them, no wonder they were clogging the radiator. All the hoses on the engine were replaced, but I assume because of the difficulty none of the heater hoses have been changed, I guess it's about time. | ||
| Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 76 Registered: 11-2001 |
Bret, I am doing the same for both hoses. What and where did you get the vaccuum and coolant hoses? Original stuff or after market? ML | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2002 Registered: 2-2001 |
I'm gonna try and feel for any clips. It seems that where it comes out of the sill the brake booster hose kind of holds up the heater hose and makes it bind at the top of the sill. Gonna try some spray, beg and plead with the old man to come help (he's watching John Wayne and after spending all day making a receiver hitch for the jeep he's a bit tired). If he helps I think I'll get it done quick, if not I'll just curse furiously at it until the hose sees it my way. Thanks guys. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 895 Registered: 2-2001 |
I removed the left fuel tank and used an assistant and some spray silicone on the hose. I pushed and my wife pulled it through. I connected the two hoses together with a heater hose splice connector and a couple of small hose clamps. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1695 Registered: 12-2000 |
I noticed Bret, that when I had the aluminum panel off (the one behind, or really, in front of the gas tank), there were folded metal clips to hold the hoses in place. These metal clips are attached at the chassis. It may be that your new hose to old hose tape/bolt attachment is hanging up on these clips. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2000 Registered: 2-2001 |
I read over Dina's thread so that should be a start I guess. Maybe I can con the old man into helping me out a little. What do you guys think about replacing brake booster too? I'm getting the feeling I don't ever want to do this again, but I don't think it's leaking at all. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 1999 Registered: 2-2001 |
For the life of me I can't seem to find an easy way to change the heater hose that runs through the door sill. I'm leaving the brake booster hose in and just changing the heater hose. I've spent like two-three hours now trying to thread this thing through the door sill. I had the old one taped to the new one with a short bolt in it (prevent hose from collapsing) and pulled on gently for awhile, after not about 20 minutes of trying to ease it through it turned into the tug of war approach, so I pulled on them until they came apart inside the sill, which was cool as it sent me from 0-60 going backwards, only stopping when landing on the jack. Despite the pain it was kind of humorous actually. No matter which way I come in from, I can't get the hose past the 90' bend near the engine compartment. I have thick wire through it now for pulling the new hose through. How did you guys that replaced them chang it? Which side did you come in from? In the mean time I cleaned up the engine some more, got the carbon off the pistons, so it wasn't a total loss of a day. I figure after dinner I'll try and kill these heater hoses. |