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Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer

Post Number: 149
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 1:53 pm:   

Thanks for the advice on the linkage! Mine does need some cleaning and adjusting, so I am taking care of that too.

I have been very careful with the nuts/bolts etc. I even visually inspect the carb bodies to make sure nothing has fallen in! I did drop one nut down into a carb, but fished it back out (still a pain as my fat fingers dont fit so well! and I couldnt find my magnet )

Im not going to get into the carb work until I get my new Ben Millermon distributor and MSD installed.
John_Miles (John_miles)
New member
Username: John_miles

Post Number: 10
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 1:06 am:   

...you will spend 10-15% of the value of your car.
John_Miles (John_miles)
New member
Username: John_miles

Post Number: 9
Registered: 7-2001
Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 1:04 am:   

Mike's right: you need to make sure the linkage is in good shape before tinkering with the left/right synchronization and front/back idle screws.

Visually, it's easy to tell when all four throttle shafts are linked properly so that they begin to move at the same time when you open the throttle. However, don't do what I did at first, and adjust the linkage for simultaneous throttle opening when you press on the little tab that moves the microswitch. That doesn't work. :-) The linkage for the front pair of carbs will normally exhibit substantial backlash when you manually manipulate the rear throttle shafts. Instead, you want to pull on the throttle cable itself to verify that all shafts are linked to open simultaneously.

Also, before you start the car with the airbox off, COUNT THE 16 NUTS AND WASHERS YOU REMOVED FROM THE VELOCITY STACKS, AS WELL AS THE 16 BRASS BUSHINGS PRESSED INTO THE AIRBOX-MOUNTED GASKETS. After you've counted them, but before you start the car, COUNT THEM AGAIN, IN ITALIAN THIS TIME.

If you start the car after any of these pieces of hardware have fallen down a carb throat, you will spend 10-15% of the value of your rebuilding an engine bank. Don't ask me how I know this.
Mike Dawson (Miked)
New member
Username: Miked

Post Number: 27
Registered: 2-2001
Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 7:59 pm:   

Terry, I just set my air horns back on the carbs without the gasket or nuts mostly to make it easier to adapt the Syncrometer to the carb. You are just measuring the airflow relative to the other carbs, not an absolute volume measurement, so the air leaking under the air horns won't matter.

If your first readings show that you need to do some extensive adjustment (usually the result of the previous tuner(s) not knowing what they are doing) I would suggest taking the time to disassemble, lube and remove all slop from the linkage before trying to adjust everything from scratch. It makes things alot easier when trying for that last 1/2 of a flat on the adjuster or locknut.
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 863
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 10:40 am:   

Terry -- there's no need to reattach the carb air horns (just put the Synchrometer cone directly onto the barrel top inlet to measure).
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer

Post Number: 144
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 9:51 am:   

This may be a silly question, but here goes:

I need to synch my carbs. I got the right tools, read all the posts and instructions, printed stuff out, made notes.... Im all set to start.

When I remove the complete air cleaner assembly, it requires removal of the carb tops (the portion that bolts up inside the air cleaner). The gasket that goes between the carb top and the carb body is designed to fit around the hole in the air cleaner where the carb top bolts up. With the air cleaner off, the gasket does not appear to be able to do a good job of sealing when the carb top is bolted back on so the synchrometer can be used.

Whats the story? I am assuming the carb tops must be bolted back on with the gasket in place in order to be able to synch them. Am I missing something? Will the floppy gasket seal fine even without the aircleaner assembly in place? Is it possible to synch the carbs without the carb tops in place at all?

thanks for the help!

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