| Author |
Message |
Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member
Username: Carb308
Post Number: 15
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, October 05, 2002 - 7:23 pm: | |
Update:
I pulled the rack out today. The infamous bushing was shot. I guess that when I checked it out the first time I found no play from the bushing because I had the car supported by the frame and the suspention was hanging in the air. this caused a pre load of the rack. I got the bushing from Norwood and the seal from Honda. Thanks, Stacy. The two bearings are also crunchy (moisture at some point in time from condensation and sitting, I guess). The bearing numbers are incomplete from wear. Does anyone know what the bearing numbers are? I have an interchange, so the number from any brand will do.
Thanks again!
Robert |
Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member
Username: Carb308
Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 11:01 pm: | |
Magoo,
Thanks for the input on runout. I was not meaning to discount your help.
Robert |
Paul (Pcelenta)
New member
Username: Pcelenta
Post Number: 29
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 7:58 am: | |
greg, what was the problem with it? I wasn't crazy about the plastic tie-wraps on the belows...but I changed those. |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 410
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 7:02 am: | |
I had my rack rebuilt by Atlantic and wasn't completely pleased with their rebuild. They will rebuild your existing rack for $250 without core etc. You may want to look elsewhere though. |
Paul (Pcelenta)
New member
Username: Pcelenta
Post Number: 28
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 6:29 am: | |
Atlantic is in Little River, SC...they advertise in the Jaguar (J parts) section of Hemmings...I've been looking for my receipt for an exact price...it was in the range I mentioned...their ad also lists seal kits.. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2943
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 11:27 pm: | |
Robert, Just thought you may want to put a runout guage on the wheels while you have it off the ground. Sometimes runout can occur gradually and not be visible to the eye. Anyway if they are new also they are probably ok. Just a thought. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1612
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 9:49 pm: | |
Where in S.C. Is Atlantic Enterprises. I am in S.C. |
Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member
Username: Carb308
Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 9:43 pm: | |
Stacy,
Thanks for the part number.
Robert |
Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member
Username: Carb308
Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 9:41 pm: | |
Thanks for all the great info. Magoo, the wheels and tires are new. Run out is not an issue,(as measured by eye, before cocktail hour). I have not checked the U joint outside beyond the inside of the firewall yet. Thanks for the tip. Stacy, the info on the seal, (part# would be great, and the bushing looks like it may be the cure if the recheck using Ed's suggestion shows movement in the pass. side inner rack. Paul,it looks like you have the best connection on a complete rack, if it comes to that.
Getting confirmation that the "bushing" exists and is a problem area is a big help. Thanks to all again. I'll keep you posted as I sort it out. |
stacy o'blenes (Stacy)
Junior Member
Username: Stacy
Post Number: 55
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 9:35 pm: | |
The part number for the Honda RS125R (1997) shifter shaft seal that can be used to replace the 308 pinion seal is 91203-KK3-830. ($2.00) |
Paul (Pcelenta)
New member
Username: Pcelenta
Post Number: 26
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 8:05 pm: | |
I purchased a complete rack from Atlantic Enterprises 800-654-7565 in South Carolina...they specialize in British stuff but have the ferrari rack (probably fits something english) think it was $250 plus the core...very reasonable. |
stacy o'blenes (Stacy)
Junior Member
Username: Stacy
Post Number: 54
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 6:00 pm: | |
Ed,
It would be tough because you have to get one of the inner tie rod ends apart to get the rack out of the housing. This involved prying out a crimped area on the threaded part of the tie rod end and on the threaded locking ring that keeps the tie rod end from coming off the rack. These pieces are locked on to the end of the rack kind of like the the front wheel hub nut is locked on the hub. Also you have to get the pinion out to pull the rack out of the housing. It really isn't that hard to get the rack out of the car once you remove the access panel underneath it, one hour tops.
|
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1610
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 5:48 pm: | |
Would it be possible to replace the bushing with the rack still in the car or is the removal of the bushing too difficult. Is the bushing a press fit? |
stacy o'blenes (Stacy)
Junior Member
Username: Stacy
Post Number: 53
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 5:40 pm: | |
Ed,
The bushing I got from Norwood in Texas for $40 was one that he had machined from Delrin. As you suggest I am sure it is all of about $5 in material. Once you get the old bushing out it is easy to put the rack back together. |
stacy o'blenes (Stacy)
Junior Member
Username: Stacy
Post Number: 52
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 5:36 pm: | |
Bill,
I basically positioned the rack roughly centered and tried to get the wheel centred when I hooked the two together. I think I had to try twice to get it in the right place. The alignment shop will fine tune it when they adjust the toe in. There is only one end bushing in the rack. The spring loaded block opposite the pinion keeps the rack positioned on the drivers side.
Robert,
As Edward says you can check that bushing with the rack in the car. Just turn the wheel to the right and grab the inner tie rod end which you can feel through the boot. If you you can move it up/down or front to back then it is gone. Mine had lots of play there before I replaced the bushing, none now. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1607
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 5:34 pm: | |
On most rack cars, you can put the spline anywhere you want and then remove the steering wheel and reposition it to align it back up centered. On some cars you can't due to the turn signal cancelling mechanism but I bet the ferreri does not matter. It still would not be too much trouble to connect the splines and then take a test drive to see how far off it is and then reposition it until correct. I do this all the time on 300Zs. Also I bet that it would be a simple task to machine some outer bushings to replace worn ones at a fraction of the price. The rack itself rarely gives any trouble and is easy to set up. This is about the most simple system on an automobile. |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 287
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 5:24 pm: | |
My GT4 SM, page E-2, shows 2-bushings in the cross sectional drawing, one on each end of the rack. They appear different in length.
I'm about to install a rebuilt rack, purchased from T.Rutlands for 595 + 300 core + shipping. Nick S quoted me about 700 for a new one + shipping, but he would have to order it from Italy.
I'd be tempted to try the rebuild if the problem was truely the bushings, but time is an issue for me.
The major problem I see in replacing the rack is correctly mating the rack input splines to the steering column coupling. There about 36 splines, so if you are off by one spline, this translates into about 10 degrees at the steering wheel. I plan to lock the rack, centered in the housing, using some hose clamps, after the boots have been removed, and mate it to the steering column coupling, with the steering wheel centered. Does anyone know a better method? |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1606
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 4:08 pm: | |
Usually it is the right side of the rack that gives a problem. You can jack up the front of the car and try to turn thr tires back and forth and you will find the loose area if there is one. |
JohnR. (Rivee)
Junior Member
Username: Rivee
Post Number: 65
Registered: 1-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 11:05 am: | |
Robert, I have the same problem. It was there before and after I put new wheels and tires on it. Re-balanced three times, but no better. Haven't looked into the rack yet. |
stacy o'blenes (Stacy)
Junior Member
Username: Stacy
Post Number: 51
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2002 - 7:24 am: | |
Robert,
It is true that there is a bushing in the rack that wears out. There is only one bushing and it is on the right (passenger) side. It is made of plastic. I just replaced mine. You can get a replacement from Norwoods in Texas ($40 US). To replace this bushing you need to remove the rack from the car and separate one of the inner tie rod ends to remove the actual rack from the housing. Pull the old bushing (held in by a screw), put the new one in and hone to the right size (I used a brake cylinder hone). You then grease and put the rack back together. You can put a new seal on the pinion (14x22x5mm). This seal was a little hard to find but a Honda rs125r motorcycle shifter shaft seal fits beautifully ($2.00) I will get the honda part number and post it tomorrow. If you need more specific info let me know. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2942
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 11:13 pm: | |
P.S. Also Robert I would check the runout of the wheels. If it did it before installing new tires they would not correct the problem and the distorted wheel would still cause the vibration. Maybe you already did this. Just a thought. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2941
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 11:08 pm: | |
Robert, The rack could be the problem which I would suggest a exchange on a rebuild if it is. I would also jack up the front end and check for play in some part of the suspension by moving the wheels back and forth. Also check the universal joint on the steering shaft, access is found from under the plate at the firewall after removing the spare tire well fiber glass cover. |
Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member
Username: Carb308
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2002 - 9:44 pm: | |
I have a '79 308 with an intermittent vibration in the steering between 70 and 85 MPH. All suspention is new or good. All done professionaly by the previoue owner. New wheels and tires, balanced twice. I had the problem before changing the wheels and tires. Alignment is exact. I have been told that this is typical for a 308 when an internal bushing in the steering rach goes bad from old age. Ok, so what is this bushing made of? Is this typical? Any other racks from other makes interchangeable? Any suggestions for sources on new or rebuilt racks? Is this bushing available?
Thanks! |