In a previous DIY, http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187951 I had removed the alternator, sent it out for rebuilding and then remounted the repaired unit with great results, but realized the Dino was missing an important part, the alternator heat shield. I needed a model of one to make and visited our local FCA Tech Director, Carlo Durante, who has a Dino under restoration. I made several sketches, took somel photos and made some preliminary cuts to size up the rough dimensions PS - Do all Dinos eventually get oil in the area of the alternator? This is the Fourth Dino that I've seen in recent months that has these same symptoms. Scott Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Once I returned home I was able to make some more cuts and refine the sizing. Before attaching the back plate to the radial shield, I set the back plate in its position on the Dino to see how it fit. Looks good so far... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I added the mounting brackets and then laterfound these to be the tricky part as the dimensions need to be sorted out for the alternator fitting inside. Th elower bracket's upper arm MUST have enough clearance for the alternator pulley "fan blades" to rotate freely, and I had to trim it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Placing it at the mounting points for more sizing and trimming. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Getting a better look at it with the Alternator loosely positioned. This gave me a better view of the alternator pivot bolt in the lower part of the photo and how the bracket forks would mate. I had to re-position these. My heat shield is a little wider and protrude a bit more so I'm wondering if the extra shielding is a good trade off with reduced airflow in the area. Opinions? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Scott - 1) I do not believe that the factory considered airflow at the alternator, else they would have created a duct from the outside. 2) The alternator pulley has a fan to direct air flow through the alternator. Good job on the heat shield. Larger is better. Jim S.
'lookin good, Scott. Have you decided on what type of blanket to afix to the inside? Most all of the usual suppliers (incl JEG's & Summit) sell various versions of insulating material. I'll bet a number of folks may even have some asb**tos matting tucked away for just such a project. When do you plan to go into production...or publish your diagrams? To answer your PS, I've seen a few Dinos that don't suffer from the infamous oil splash. Lucky for me, my 246 is relatively dry--not pristine, but not too shabby. When I first got the car, there was a whole lot more fuel weeping out of the Webers than oil oozing out o' the engine! Thanks to you, Scott, for sharing your fab process, and to Carlos for making it possible! Coop
Something like a plumbers mat, you know the ones they use for protecting walls etc whilst using a blow torch might be a good idea to fix inside. Mine albeit original (and i suspect grey asbestos) is held in position by the tin plate lip folded over to hold it.
Doubt that insulation on the inside of the heat shield would make any difference. Radiation from a red hot exhaust header is the problem and the metal kills that. Remaining heat input is from below and that is convection, not radiation. Scott should be OK now. John
Back in the days of asbestos, using it was cheap and easy insurance. None of the fiberglass or ceramic substitutes are as easy to work with or even obtain. Once you have 99% of the heat taken care of, quit while you are ahead. John
As a last iteration I addressed the issue of leaking oil from above by adding a slanted "hat" with furled edges to the Alternator heat shield that allows the oil to roll off the back side rather than drip onto the alternator. It has been over a year and I removed the unit as part of a new project (low cost replaceable modern alternator, stay tuned!). The heat shield does show a few oil drips on the exterior, none has gotten onto the alternator. I count this as a success. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Scott i believe that the oil comes from the thread on the 6mm adjusting bolt for the rear cam chain tensioner just above the alternator (in fact in your first post i think i can detect a drop about to fall!) All you need to do is replace the bolt using some Hylomar or similar sealent on the bolt....remember if you ever adjust the chains again to reseal.....it sure cured the problem on my car. Regards GP
Or use a copper washer under the m6 nut, if that doesn't help try U-seal or Dyna seal, that's a washer with in the inside a bit of rubber to prevent oil coming through. regards Tom
I certainly hope no one here was waiting 5 years with a diassembled Dino since the last post on this thread for today's advice
If you drive your Dino periodically the cam box seals will begin to weep; both the cover gaskets and the end caps. This shield has helped divert that. I have had my Euro Dino almost 10 years and can claim more miles than all prior owners' combined. I end up checking those cam box nuts yearly. There are several jokes about leaky Italian Engines, for good reason Necessity is the mother of invention - about the same time you realized a need for this Dino problem too and arrived at a more elegant solution.
