206 wipers - grrrrrr | FerrariChat

206 wipers - grrrrrr

Discussion in '206/246' started by TonyJerseyUK, Jul 5, 2014.

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  1. TonyJerseyUK

    TonyJerseyUK Karting

    Mar 21, 2013
    139
    Hi,

    Does anyone know of a tried and tested (and ultimately successful) method of making the wipers work on a 206?

    When I say "work" I mean work on the windscreen, rather than the windscreen and then occasionally the top of the wheel arch......

    I've so far paid for more than 60 hours of labour on this matter with 3 different Dino specialists, and it's now getting everso slightly boring. I've also lost count of the people I've asked about the chance of another car existing with identical wiper motors/set up - maybe a dozen or so different cars suggested, ranging from the obvious various Fiat options, to Alfa Montreal, Jaguar, etc., etc.

    Any help or advice gratefully accepted.

    Cheers,

    Tony
     
  2. possum

    possum Formula Junior

    Sep 27, 2008
    307
    australia
    Full Name:
    johnno
    Are your splines on the shafts okay they may not be engaging?set them up off the windscreen for best results.
     
  3. TonyJerseyUK

    TonyJerseyUK Karting

    Mar 21, 2013
    139
    Hi Johnno,

    All re-machined cut and brand new. It is 100% to do with the, quite frankly, truly pathetic orig motor assembly...

    Bests,

    Tony
     
  4. possum

    possum Formula Junior

    Sep 27, 2008
    307
    australia
    Full Name:
    johnno
    Have you checked the wiper mechanism when working you might notice something slipping or not engaging ect,you have probably done all this any way, very frustrating but probably something simple we hope.
    Cheers
     
  5. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2002
    6,396
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    #5 Nuvolari, Jul 6, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2014
    I just finished this job and will share what I learned along the way. Please excuse the length of my post but I do not have any in process photos so I will need to explain what I did. On the early 246's they were fitted with the same clap style wiper blades as the 206 with the only difference being that the 206 had wiper arms that pushed onto the ends of the motors while on the later cars the arms were held in place with nuts.

    In my case I was starting with a system that had been totally disassembled, re-greased, and checked for wear. In the end I had a smooth operating system with no play. If your system has play in it due to wear it must be fixed first because the tolerances of the operating system is pretty tight and slop anywhere will cause the blades to be out of time and hit. When disassembling my system I made the mistake to not note the relative position of the arms which meant I was starting totally from scratch as my motor assembly was not oriented correctly with the park mechanism so hopefully my instructions here are even more useful as I had extra steps to do.

    Before going on to the procedure I want to identify the two main parts of the system:
    1. The motor assembly: This holds the electric motor, park mechanism, and drive for one of the wiper arms. We'll call it the Motor Side or MS for short

    2. The slave side: Operated by a flex cable that takes the drive from the motor it transfers rotational movement to the other wiper arm. We'll call it the Slave Side or SS for short.

    Now on to the procedure:

    Start by protecting everything. We covered our glass in paper that had a slightly sticky surface on the back so that it would not move around. We used the transfer paper that decal makers use on vinyl cut decals and it worked wonderfully. Also slide a bag over the wiper blades or wrap them in waxed paper so that they slide over the glass more easily. This prep allows you to do a lot of wiping on a dry window with no grabbing or risk of scratching.

    Step 1: Make sure the MS starts, stops, and parks properly

    Make sure there are no blades or arms installed and work only on the MS by disconnecting the SS entirely where the flex cable meets the motor. I taped a toothpick to where the wiper arm goes to mimic an arm and act as a visual reference. With this setup ready I would turn the wipers on via the steering column switch and ensure that when I turned the system off. That the toothpick would always stop in the same place (forget the upsweep for now as this cannot be adjusted). I would hold a pencil eraser side to the glass and perpendicular to act as a visual stop placing it so that the toothpick would 'just' touch it. This way I could be certain of accuracy.

    Once you are sure that the wiper always stops in the same place then check that when you start it that it does not track downwards a little before starting the upsweep. In other words when the wipers are parked they should never go a little in the down direction before starting their sweep. In my case I had my timing off having not re-assembled things as they came apart. To correct this the whole wiper motor has to come out and the relative orientation of the two drive arms needs to be changed. It is here where guesswork will kill you and eat all kinds of time. Take a scientific approach and turn the motor by hand counting turns and relate them to the sweep taking particular note as to how many turns of the motor take place when the wipers are changing direction as there are a few 'dead' turns where the motor is turning but because the system is changing direction the wipers do not indeed move at that time (similar to the few degrees of movement at TDC or BDC in an engine where the crank turns but the piston is stationary). In my case I set it so that when the park mechanism parked the wipers, the 'dead' turns of the motor had yet to spin before starting the upsweep. This was the most tedious part and took 3 removal and re-calibrations to get right.

    Step 2: Set the MS Wiper arm.

    With the MS assembly operating properly it was time to fit the MS wiper arm. I fitted it complete with wiper and set it so that the wiper was parallel to horizontal when facing the front windshield. I then held the arm physically spacing the wiper away from the glass and had a helper start the wipers. Following the movement with my hand I ensured that the wiper would not touch the glass or more importantly come off the glass if the placement of the arm was wrong. After some cycles I would stop and adjust the position of the arm on the drive spline accordingly so that the outer tip of the wiper would come as close to the window molding on the A pillar as possible without touching it.

    Once I achieved this holding the wiper a little in the air I eventually placed it on the glass and ran the system again making any adjustments as needed. To add more accuracy I used a pencil again to make marks on the paper covered glass exactly where the wiper stopped as I wanted to be totally sure of accuracy. Make a line the full length of the parked wiper to help imagine its position when the assembly is removed later. Also remove the entire arm. At this point the MS is set and should not be touched any more.


    Step 3: On to the SS

    Just like the MS it is necessary to make sure the SS has no play and that you understand its movement. So with the SS disconnected I turned it by hand noting the exact start and stop points as well as the number of 'dead' turns when the direction was changing. It is the relation of the 'dead' turns between the MS and SS that most people are sloppy on and cause all the problems. If you set your MS properly and methodically then it becomes very predictable leaving only the SS to worry about to get the timing between the blades correct.

    Assuming the system is properly parked (cycle it if you are not sure) and that the SS is at the point where it is changing direction. Connect the flex cable to the motor and fit a toothpick to the SS arm drive following the same procedure as for the MS to ensure that it is parking and starting properly. The only difference is that if there is a problem here the only adjustment you have is to disconnect the flex cable at the motor and turn the inside of the cable a bit, and re-test. You NEVER turn the motor because its park position is set by the park mechanism so to turn the motor will mess up your timing.

    Keep playing with it so that the toothpick always stops in the same place and does not track downwards when you start the wipers.

    Step 4: Testing the SS with a wiper arm

    Following the same precautions and procedures as the MS install the SS wiper arm again ensuring that the outer tip of the wiper blade does not touch the window frame.

    At this stage you should have a SS that will track a wiper along the glass without touching the A pillar trim or the rubber trim at the base of the windshield. Mark the position of the wiper at the bottom and visually compare it to the mark made for the MS. The lines do not necessarily need to be parallel to one another but they do need to be spaced from one another and not overlap.

    Step 5: Re-install the MS wiper arm and blade

    Using the line made in Step 2, re fit the MS wiper arm and test the system to make sure the wipers track properly. Here are some important tips:

    - Remember that because of the park mechanism once you start the system it will continue until it is parked. As such I removed the black negative wire from the battery, turned the wipers on, and then 'pulsed' the system by touching the neg wire back to the battery just long enough to move the wipers a few cm. This careful approach helped avoid having freshly restored arms smash into one another if the timing was off and also helped visualize the relative distances between the blades.

    - We are assuming here that the correct length 14" blades are installed. Any longer and the system CANNOT BE CALIBRATED. It is so close that the blades will hit. 14.5" blades will hit (it is THAT close)

    - At this stage the only adjustments you have are the position of the blade on the drive spline (this applies to MS and SS) and the adjustment of the 'dead' turns on the SS only to make up fine differences.

    - If you are re-setting the arms on the splines remember that the top position has already been set to as close to the A-pillar trim as possible. As such you can only move DOWNWARDS to get your adjustment.


    This may sound like a lot but if you follow the procedure methodically it is not terribly hard. In my case the wiper system was totally out of whack after its restoration and the complete timing and assembly took about 2 hours total.

    Best of luck with your project and remember to remove the paper off the glass before driving :)
     
  6. TonyJerseyUK

    TonyJerseyUK Karting

    Mar 21, 2013
    139
    O. M. G! Wow! I shall pass this info onto my chap and will assume that my wipers will be perfect once he's read and carried out this procedure. Will let you know.

    Thanks very much indeed!!

    Tony
     
  7. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    #7 dm_n_stuff, Jul 6, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2002
    6,396
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    These specs refer to the later 'non-clapper' style wiper arms. Note the wiper blade lengths of 18 inches. That size could never work on the older clapper system. Also the VIN numbers listed are for later cars.
     
  9. dman550

    dman550 Karting

    Dec 17, 2012
    111
    White Rock BC
    Full Name:
    Dario
    I see the differences in the later E style wiper blades but what about the arms are there differences in the arm lengths?

    Dario
     
  10. Adds406

    Adds406 Rookie

    May 17, 2011
    26
    I just spent a few hours fitting these the wiper motor and arms back on the Dino.
    I made a bit of a stupid mistake, I took the assembly off because it was slow but I marked all the various spines and spindles with a red permanent marker.
    I found the spindle on the slave side had corrosion and wasn't easy to move so I lubricated it and got it moving ( lubricant washed off my positioning marks) I should have used paint dots.
    I also stripped the motor side out and checked that and regreased/oiled it.
    It was at the point of refitting I found my oversight with the marks, spent ages lining these up then found this useful thread here.
    This forum is a goldmine. The wipers all working and not hitting now.
    Thanks for such helpful posts
     

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