Bleeding Brakes AGAIN ! Dino 246 | FerrariChat

Bleeding Brakes AGAIN ! Dino 246

Discussion in '206/246' started by yakxx21, Nov 24, 2015.

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  1. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #1 yakxx21, Nov 24, 2015
    Im having a lot of trouble bleeding my brakes...(even replaced the Servo) ..whatever I do I seem to have a lot of brake travel (Albeit quite hard) ...and then when driving the servo does not seem to work (Its new ! ) ....OK... I read somewhere that the brakes should be bled FRONT first...others say start at the wheel furthest away....anyway , tried everything and still to no avail...long travel ..always ...so now my thoughts are to isolate the front first and bleed that and then the rear....my question is : if I seperate the bleeding (Front and then rear) ...and with the pedal adjuster rod adjusted to get initial pressure, (and new pads) ...just how far down does the average pedal go to apply the brakes...or any other tips...(have self bleed nipples and a suction kit....still cant get brakes ..) Help...any advise ???
     
  2. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    Rob C.
    #2 Nuvolari, Nov 24, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You absolutely NEED to bleed the master cylinder before you can properly bleed the braking system. I bled the system for ages before realizing the importance to bleed the master. Here is a simple photo that shows how I bled my master cylinder. Once done bleeding the rest of the system is easy.
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  3. abstamaria

    abstamaria F1 Rookie

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    Andres
    #3 abstamaria, Nov 24, 2015
    I've never bled a master cylinder. Is the procedure in the manual? Is there a bleed valve? Sorry I'm out of town.

    Andres
     
  4. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    #4 Nuvolari, Nov 24, 2015
    I too have never bled a master cylinder but when it came to the Dino the difference was night and day. I must have bled 2 full litres of fluid through the system before turning my attention to the master. To bleed the master do the following:

    1. Disconnect the two lines that feed out of the master cylinder. These are the ones that feed the front and rear brake systems.

    2. Using some hard brake line and the correct fittings make new fittings that allow for the installation of clear flexible hoses that go between the 'out' feeds of the master cylinder and the reservoir bottles.

    3. With this assembly in place (like in the photo above) pump the brake pedal several times until fluid free of bubbles flows through the flexible hoses.

    4. Re-assemble the entire setup and then bleed the brakes as normal.

    Remember brake fluid DESTROYS PAINT!!! be sure to control your spills and clean them with brake cleaner immediately.
     
  5. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #5 yakxx21, Nov 25, 2015
    Thanks , I will do that....Couple more things in the back of my head....It was very hard to get any fluid out of the rear bleed nipples ...opening the nipple and pressing the brake didnt seem to do it...I have to use a suction bleeder at full blast to get anything out.....

    Could there be something wrong with the little compensator box which is in line...Ive never touched that as it looks a little rusty on the outside ?

    Thanks...appreciate your time....
     
  6. ENZOSON

    ENZOSON Formula Junior
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    #6 ENZOSON, Nov 25, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Rob-

    I like your set up a lot better !!!!!!!!!

    Cheers

    Pietro
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  7. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

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    #7 yakxx21, Nov 25, 2015
    As an afterthought I wonder why we don't have to bleed a normal car master cylinder but should do on the Dino ... Or maybe we should ???
     
  8. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #8 yakxx21, Dec 12, 2015
    I have bled the front brakes now and the master cylinder ... And it's pretty good and solid ... My only reservation is that the brake pedal ( without engine running) has pedal travel of maybe 6 inches ( with the adjuster relaxed). Is this normal ? No way can I get the pedal to the solid position without travelling about 6 inches .
    To bring it back I have to really crank up the adjuster .... Is this normal ?
     
  9. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
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    #9 racerboy9, Dec 12, 2015
    I think brake pedal travel on the Dino is about 1". Six inches for sure is way too much. I seem to recall the info on brake pedal travel and adjustment is in the owners manual.
     
  10. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #10 yakxx21, Dec 13, 2015
    I can get it right back to one or two inches but only by turning the adjuster mechanism that pushes the master cylinder quite a way in so its under pressure all the time...even when the brakes are not applied....is that normal....I mean is it normal to have the system always under pressure....
    my six inches travel is when the adjuster is totally relaxed...no static pressure applied to servo control rod »» and master cylinder....
     
  11. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #11 yakxx21, Dec 13, 2015
    By the way...Im just doing the front brakes independently at the moment....trying to isolate the problem
     
  12. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
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    #12 racerboy9, Dec 13, 2015
    You should have that 1" or so pedal free play with no pressure on the brake system.
     
  13. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #13 synchro, Dec 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Yes, the plunger could be stuck to the side preventing movement allowing fluid flow. It is steel and if the dust cap is missing then pitting might have started as that area gets dirty easily.

    Do you have a US or Euro version Dino? There are 9 hard lines in a US, 8 in a Euro Dino and nothing else besides the compensator and ATE distribution blocks. In rare cases of age or neglect, steel brake lines can corrode from the inside and contaminants can flake and flow, possibly blocking. Again, internet diagnoses with no pics...
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  14. yakxx21

    yakxx21 Karting

    Jun 29, 2013
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    #14 yakxx21, Dec 21, 2015
    What I found : I did bleed the master cylinder...however trying to get the front wheel circuit to work correctly independently ( with pedal only going down 1 inch or so) proved to me to be impossible....bled for a couple of days...Then.....I connected the rear brake fluid input...the big screw that bolts the union onto the master cylinder has a pin on it...that seems to push the plunger in somewhat and that cut the pedal play down to about 4 inches...I then bled the rear wheels .... Low and behold the pedal now comes right back to about 1.5 inches and is rock solid....the car stops on a sixpence and for some reason unknown to me the front circuit is working perfectly well and on a 60 mile emergency stop...puts skid make down on front and rear.....I have no idea why connecting the rear circuit makes the front come good, but it did....
    OK ..that's just what happened to me ....it might be of use to somebody....
     

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