02956 Restoration | FerrariChat

02956 Restoration

Discussion in '206/246' started by jerion, May 9, 2016.

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  1. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
    #1 jerion, May 9, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have been helped so much over the last few years that I thought it was time to share my progress. I committed to get many of the hardware items completed over the Winter and I did fairly well. A few of the items tackled included the wiper system, half shafts, pedal box, heater blower motors, rear lid hinges, door strikers, rear axles and hood release. Of all of the projects, the wiper system was the most challenging due to the large number of parts. One of the gears was badly stripped and had to be be replaced. Otherwise, many many pictures were taken to keep track of everything. And, thanks to others that have posted previously as determining the original finishes was not always obvious. If anyone is interested in any one system, let me know and I can add more pictures.
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  2. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Thanks for sharing your project. It's always nice to see some hardware pictures and a great inspiration. When to plan to be driven the car again?

    Best regards Peter
     
  3. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
    I am guessing that I have at least two more years to go on this project. This Summer I plan to finish most of the body work. Rust took its toll on the lower section of the Dino so there will be new rockers, inners and outers, one new door for the RH side, and rear quarters. I have some of the parts made; just need to weld in place.

    There are a few more hardware items that I want to finish this month and I will post pictures of them as I get them done.

    Jeff
     
  4. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2004
    2,649
    Southern California
    Jeff,

    Really nice work! really inspiring! You will know your Dino inside out! In the end, you will have a gorgeous Dino!

    Freeman
     
  5. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Jeff, you have a pm.

    Regards, Alberto
     
  6. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
    I have tackled a tricky part; the handbrake assembly. I was missing the lower lever arm that connects to the hand brake cable. This part has two bits to it. The first is the lever arm and the second is the pivot. The lever arm was straight forward....sort of. I copied a number of pictures posted by several of FerrariChat members. I used my shop press to create the two angles required and machined the sides to agree with the pictures. The pivot required a little more thought as there is a spline that must be produced to engage the mating feature in the main handle. I used bondo in the hole and just as it started to harden, I pushed it out with a rod and ended up with an exact duplicate of the spline. I ground a single point cutter with a profile exactly to the bondo part and then used a dividing head on my mill to recreate the spline. After a couple tries, I got one to work perfectly. The threads on the end were very-fine metric and so I had to purchase a special die to cut the threads (M10 X 0.75 mm). The parts were welded together and assembled loose until I put it on the car. You will notice that the lower hole for the cable is not yet in. I will measure this once installed and drill for the pin. Fun project.
     
  7. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
  8. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
    #8 jerion, Dec 12, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have made some progress over the Summer but not near what I wanted....house projects too precedence. I am working on the right and left heater boxes and heater valves. I have one heat/air diverter that was damaged. Has anyone removed the flap assembly from one of these units? My plan was to remove the flap assy, then cut the sections apart, repair and then reweld. Any advice? See pics for current status.

    Thanks
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  9. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    #9 pshoejberg, Dec 13, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You can quite easily remove the flapper valve(s) and make rust or seal repair on them. I changed all the rubber seals on my valves with no big issues. The valve flapper consists of two steel plates spot-welded together and with the seal squeezed in between the two plates. See below pictures for more details.

    Good wrenching

    Peter
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  10. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    Peter,
    Easier than I expected. I will give this a go on the weekend.

    All the best.

    Jeff
     
  11. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    #11 jerion, Dec 18, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It did not go well. The shaft appears to be solidly welded to the square shaft. So, I split the tube and extracted the shaft and plate as an assembly. Here's what I have....see pic.

    I will remove the spot weld and remove the shaft as it will be much easier to do the plate and seal repairs.

    Peter, did you drill out the spot welds or just pries the plates apart and slide the new seal in?

    I will make new tubes from flat stainless or tube and reconstruct the system.
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  12. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    #12 pshoejberg, Dec 19, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
    The shaft most be stuck due to corrosion. I.e. first step most be to attempt freeing the shaft without violent behavior. Try soaking in wd40 or similar fluid, that worked for me. If no success, try combined with heat. If no success either, drill out the spot-welds and pry the two plates from each other. The rubber seal will easily go on whether you split the plates or not. You could consider getting the valve flapper electro galvanized before installing the seal, that will make it less prone to corrode again since it difficult the paint the plates efficiently. I treated mine with black zinc. Do consider NOT to use any stainless steel in these cars....they were all made originally from 100% black steel. Personally, I would rather use black steel and try to corrosion protect more thoroughly using good quality paint systems and zinc treatments. Good luck.

    Best Peter
     
  13. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    Peter,
    I will attack in the order you recommended. I will go with mild steel....I may be able to salvage all but the straight tube. Brackets are easy to make so I will reconstruct them. Zinc plating is relatively cheap and considering that this car will not likely see much rain in its lifetime, it will probably last forever.

    Thanks for the assistance.

    Regards,

    Jeff
     
  14. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Peter, the only stainless I used was for the three tubes where the cable run to open the various lids.

    Mine were so corroded, missing sections, etc. that I just figured that as we had to take half the car apart, may as well go SS, then painted, no one will see the difference.

    Regarded, Alberto
     
  15. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    I must admit I also used SS for the lid opening wire pipes because I could not find the correct dimension in mild steel (Ended up with hydraulic pipes). In addition, the flat headed slotted metric screws are difficult to find in mild steel, so compromises have to be taken now and then....-:)

    Regards Peter
     
  16. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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  17. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
    Full Name:
    Jeff Erion
    #17 jerion, Feb 1, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I am making progress slowly and surely. The damaged duct required more work than anticipated but the result was good. The shafts for both ducts were welded on both sides and in 2 places. I had to carefully grind each weld removing the least amount of material. Everything came apart easily after that. One shaft was saved and one was machined with new bushings. The rubber for the flaps was replaced with new material. The damaged duct was carefully cut away and a new section was made and welded in. The attached pictures show the result....and I blasted and painted both ducts and one of the heater boxes....the other one was painted some time ago. I also finished up the pedal box. I was missing the adjusting link for the brakes and was able to get pieces on-line to recreate it close to original.

    2 of the trim pieces are out for straightening as they were dinged a bit. I was sorry to see that they are just mild steel with chrome plating.

    Some of the body panels on my car had some rust or were easier to replace than repair. Alberto came to the rescue and I have several replacement steel parts...rear quarters, lh door skin and a couple inner panels. Thanks Alberto.

    I should also mention that I also sent bumpers, license lamp housing and several other miscellaneous parts our for rechroming. It took 2 months but who's in a hurry!

    Regards,

    Jeff
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  18. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    #18 jerion, Feb 19, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  19. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    #19 jerion, Mar 12, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Looks like I stumped the stars with the last post. I can't find any references showing the part so it looks like it will not be going on the car.
    I tackled a number of smaller metal parts that I'm sure that some of you have dealt with in the past. I made new heater boxes; the ones that mount on the outside of the forward fiberglass inner panel. They came out pretty well so I worked on making a new back-up lamp housing. The original was rusted beyond repair, so I made a new one. See the pics for old vs new.
    Being in the mood for sheet metal work, I have also made some new inner wheel covers where the originals were rusty. The fiberglass portions were cleaned and sand blasted. One will need some repair.
    I will be starting on the repair panels for the main body shortly.

    Regards,
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  20. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Very nice work.....Keep the pictures coming!

    Best Peter
     
  21. Bertocchi

    Bertocchi Formula 3
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    Jan 28, 2004
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    I am wondering how similar the 308 assembly is to this? Does anyone know?
     
  22. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    Sep 3, 2002
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    Identical. It is a Fiat part.
     
  23. Bertocchi

    Bertocchi Formula 3
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    Jan 28, 2004
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    #23 Bertocchi, Mar 13, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I apologize for hijacking this thread but I am looking for advice. See the attached photo to understand where I stand. Is the round piece in the center threaded?
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  24. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    I don't think that it is threaded....maybe splined. This appears to be one of the derivative Fiat hand brakes that was never meant to be disassembled. Pin passes through from one end and cold headed on the other.
    Has anyone ever taken one of these apart?

    Regards,
     
  25. Ken Ivey

    Ken Ivey Karting
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    Jan 6, 2013
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    When I made repairs to mine, that was a threaded portion and there was a nut there. Yours’, as was said above, probably wasn’t meant to be taken apart. So, someone cut off the part that was wider than the shaft – thereby creating the hacksaw marks on the shaft, collar and some surrounding items.

    If I were faced with that, I’d drill and tap a hole into the shaft and screw on a fender-washer that was wider than the collar, securing the shaft in place. You would probably put nylon washer between the washer and collar to minimize friction. Fortunately, t's all covered.

    Good luck!


    Ken
     

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