Cam shaft end plate gasket install question

Hi Skipp. Usually it's not necessary to put any sealant if the gasket are of good quality and the surface of the parts are perfect. With old cars it is more sure to put a little amount of specific sealant for gasket. This will give you a perfect insulation. The only problem is that if you will need to remove the part the gasket will be destroyed.
For the cam shaft end it will not be necessary because the amount of oil that goes to the ends is very small. Regards, Alvaro

 

I always use a clear silicone sealant used sparingly on all the seals.

The problem is the mating of two gaskets, the cam cover gasket and the end covers. Always fit the cam cover gasket with the ends about 10mm longer than you want, torque down the cam covers and then cut off the surplus with a sharp blade. Then fit the end gaskets.

Tony

 

Several sealants will work on that gasket. Yamabond and Hondabond are good and can be had at the respective motorcycle dealerships for around $10. Permatex Ultra Gray is another. Hylomar is one of my favorites but is sometimes hard to find at an auto parts store so I just order it on line. I only use enough to just wet the gasket. One good thing about using a sealer is the gasket will release if you have to take it off again. Without a sealer you usually have to scrape the old gasket off with a razor blade.

 

I did some research on your question before, Skippr and can second what has been posted already. The “official” instructions from the company that makes the material of our gaskets is to install them dry without sealant but as afer has posted this applies when you are installing new material. We always use a silicone sealant.
You may also want to check if your covers are straight.

 

In theory the gasket can be installed dry but in practice using a sealant is much more reliable given the production tolerances and accumulated porosity and other signs of age. I personally use Loctite 518 as it is an anaerobic sealant which eliminates any chance of a cured sealant blob working its way through the oil system and clogging an oil passage (it happens more often than you think). The Loctite product goes on very easily and overflow also wipes off well for a perfect assembly every time.

Also when choosing gaskets ONLY use the green Klingersil gaskets. No other gasket I have found seals as well or is as reliable. Gaskets are not the place to save a penny and insist on the best. I have found the Klingersil gaskets to be totally reliable.
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Make sure you get the green gasket! if that does not scare you I'll tell you about an engine out that was required to fix a leak caused by a non-Klingersil gasket. There is a big difference. That said you can call Superformance to be sure because AFAIK all of their gaskets are green and just some of their website pictures need updating.

 

I second the Anerobic sealer. I personally use the Permatex Anerobic in the blue tube, but it is almost identical. We use it on the early cars all the time here, and I use it in my personal shop. I own the only vehicle that leaks oil worse than a vintage Ferrari, Vintage Harleys! Anerobic works amazing on drain plugs and threads as well!

 

I put a thin bead of anerobic on both sides of the gasket. I also put a tiny bit towards the base of each stud. This prevents oil from wicking up the stud and leaking out the nut. As far as torque goes, "wrist tight" with a 6" long 1/4 ratchet is the best way to describe the way I do it!

 

Locktite 518 and the Permatex in the blue tube are the same product.

 

The use of thick gaskets increases the chance of distortion of the end plate because the thicker material is more compressible.

I'd use a straight edge on the end cover and if required file it back flat. But be aware, after all these years the combined surface of the end of the head and valve cover may be a bit out of true as well, hence the glue. It is a case of thicker gaskets and tighter nuts not being to path to being oil tight.

 

I agree with Brian. This is exactly what happened to me, and as the mating surfaces were not perfect I ended up adding a sealant in order to stop the leaks.

 

As others I don't like silicone product close to the oil circulation system. I have used locktite 5922 with great success on all oil sealing gaskets. Ii is not silicone based. This is how the product is described:

"Loctite 5922 - Improves the sealing performance of old and new pre-cut gaskets

Your benefits

Improves the sealing performance of old and new pre-cut gaskets (paper, cork, felt, etc.)
Slow curing paste
Sets to a permanently flexible, non-hardening film
Suitable for parts which require disassembly
Application

On engine and gearbox. For sealing/dressing flanges with old and new pre-cut compression gaskets. Ideal for part assembly after repairs".

Don't get it on your fingers, it is a nasty black stuff that is very difficult to remove from skin.

Best regards Peter

 

Peter, If you use silicone (or any other gasket material) the same as sealing around the shower tray then you will get problems.

Use it to just smear over the gasket is perfectly acceptable. ie a very thin coating so no excess bulges out

Best

Tony

 

You are right on that one Tony. I have used a silicone based sealer between the engine block and the gearbox (Blue Locktite #5926) and the trick is to know when you have applied enough to avoid creating a bulge of excess silicone that potential can break off and enter the lube system.

Peter

 

Just so you know GT Car Parts in Arizona has all of the tooling for the gaskets and makes them from the correct green Klingersil material. Just be sure to specify that you want the Klingersil and they will cut gaskets to match.

 

If you think the oil is coming through the threads the best solution is to use the washers you see in the picture (I don't know the name in English). This washers are with a rubber center that close inside the threads. For sure are the correct ones for the gearbox and valve cover.
Alvaro
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These are stat-o-seal washers.
Useful if fixing a leak...