Removing CV Joints

Wow sounds like you had some trouble there. I had to cobble together serveral different size extensions to get to a point where I could get a long handle ratchet to break them free, sure felt like a couple were going to break before they finally turned, with a slight squeek - a sound I was delighted to hear. I did have one bolt which was stubborn to the point of me borrowing a set of sockets which fit over rounded bolts to get it out, it worked great (so good I bought a set). Regardless, I needed a new locking nut and bolt got it + an extra from Partsource in Maine.

Wait til you have to clean all the old grease out of the CV joint. What a mess. Hope I don't have to do it for many, many, many years.

 

Hey Dave, I don't recall you bringing those sockets back...LOL Seriously, at $20 a set at Sears every tool kit should have a set. There are different size sockets for different size nuts/bolts regardless of SAE or Metric. The inside of the sockets are machined so that the more effort you put into loosening the bolt/nut the tighter the socket bites into the nut until it just comes right off. There aren't many tools you can get for $20 that are worthwhile - these are the exception.

 

I also had a hell of a time getting those CV joint bolts off a few years ago when I rebuilt mine--77 GTB. I was able to get them all off cleanly and re-use them. I had to use a 2-foot socket extension plus a swivel joint to get it done--plus some serious muscle and prayers!

Greg

 

It sounds like you are making it a lot harder than it needs to be.

An impact gun with the appropriate combination of extensions and sockets gets it done in a few minutes.

 

I strongly recommend not to reuse the old nuts and bolts but instead get new ones. I removed those with a long extension that reached all the way out of the car, then put a breakerbar on it and then put all of my weight into it and they came lose. You may have to remove the brakes and discs.

Helmut

 

I'm in the middle of replacing my CV joints as well. I didn't have near the hard time with the bolts as you, but I sprayed them with penetrating oil for several days before I actually removed the axles while I worked on a couple other projects - I'm also replacing the clutch and rebuilding the rear calipers. I had one split boot and that CV joint was definitely toast; the other were looser than... (I forget her name).

What concerns me is the condition of the grease in the inner CV joints - obvious contamination. A large piece of seal material also came out with the grease. Looking through other Fchat posts I see several people ended up replacing the seals between the flange and the differential. After buying a couple seals from Motion Industries (PN 02335857) I found another thread of posts saying it should be made of krypton or something and be directional. Any comments on the need to go OEM on the seals???

After over 20 years of paying the premium for the yellow box, I'm tired of feeling like a chump ( Ferrari CV joint $228 vs porch for $74 $23.50 for a boot vs $5.00); you all know what I mean...... Anyway, before I actually change the seals - does anyone think it necessary to stick with OEM seals?

Thanks in advance

 

Ditto for me last year, knuckles still bear the scars!!!

 

Nothing like "power tools" to get the job done...

 

Similar story .......

1. clean out the head of the socket with degreaser and high pressure water ( Yeah , I know there is a sad old split CV joint in there , be careful )

2. buy a high quality 1/2" drive socket to suit the cap screw head

3. buy a high quality universal joint .....1/2"drive again

4. buy a 3 foot extension ........ a cheap one actually did the job (not too cheap guys)

5. assemble socket drive + universal joint + 3 foot extension + breaker bar + heavy piece of steel tube on the breaker bar handle.

6. this arrangement gets you out from underneath the car

7. use a medium weight hammer to tap the end of the breaker bar so that the socket drive goes fully into the socket head cap screw.

8. sit the outer end of the extension on blocks of wood so it sits reasonably level ..allowing the breaker bar to sit just outside of it.

9. put your foot on the breaker bar and press down with your body weight

10. the capscrews should come loose pretty easy , , as was mentioned by others that feeling that the cap screw is about to break and then a squeek noise and it is undone. 65mm is the right length , making sure the bolts are correct in the left side is more crucial than the right.


I used the 930 Turbo CV joint .......... it's exactly the same and a fraction of the price.

 

The best band tool i have come across is the Napa tool:
You can also get some of their stainless bands, which work well.
With this you can really get the band on securely.

hth,
chris
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Here is an amazing tool, It probably won't get off a cv bolt, but it will do cam bolts, transfer gear nuts and lug nuts. A pro mechanic has this fine bit of metal and plastic that he takes on the road. It is $30. at Harbor Fright.

If you got tight nuts, you might want to rent a real impact, electric if you don't have a big air compressor. I did mine with the long extensions, (1/2 inch won't wind up as much as a 3/8) and banged up my knuckles. Impact is the way to go.

I would buy a good quality hex wrench, (cheap ones round off and damage the inhex) and replace any bolts that showed any deterioration of the inhex, (so you can be sure of getting it off next time).

Also a good idea - Soak your nuts in Kroil, PB Blaster or Breakaway - I know it smells nasty, but if you are carefull, you won't get any on your clothes

If you put your newly packed joints in plastic sandwich bags, you can maneuver the axles in place witout getting grease all over everything and or contaminating the joint with dirt. Once they are about to be mated up, slip off the bag and bolt it up.

hth,
chris
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Any particular year 930 Turbo? And are the CV joints the same on the 78/79 308 as your GTS1?

Thanks,
Doug

 

12v impact wrench :: I have one of these too - best £15 I ever spent - I've loosened the crank bolt (that's tight), cam drive nuts, and other big nuts.

Lee

'77 GT4
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Best not to re-use CV bolts. After wrestling with them to get them off there's typically some damage to the hex on the bolt head. And, these bolts do stretch (even a 12.9) and cycle over time. They're not that expensive to replace.

The CV bolts are difficult to remove not only because it's difficult to get a hex socket placed properly in the bolt head and have room to swing but also because the torque setting it quite high and people often use blue thread lock. A better way to go is to use drilled hex socket bolts (drilled for wiring with SS wire) - the bolt won't unwind and you don't have to use threadlock or a really high torque setting or even a lock washer. There's a reason planes and most race cars use a lot of wired fasteners.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=30c3le

 

Doug:

I also have a '79 308 GTS, and just changed my CV joints. I bought mine from Pelecan Parts, and they were about the nicest people I've ever dealt with. shipment came earlier than I was ready for. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_SUSaxl_pg1.htm#

930-332-034-00-M60 // CV Joint, 911 Turbo (1977-84)
901-332-293-12-M60 //CV Boot, 911 (1974-mid 1975), 911 Turbo (1975-84)

PS: don't freak if the box says 301174, it's the same GKN part

 

Robert,

These are the part numbers that I've used for many years now.
Curious....Did you boots come with clamps? I ask, as some vendors provide and some don't.

Thanks,
David

 

Jet Lag and Fastradio have beaten me to it .......... The 930 CV joint fits (and corrrect me if I'm wrong please) 930's from 76 to 84 , , , , these fit all Ferrari 3X8's and several other models.

They always show up on ebay , , here is an example .. e-bay listing 310069863038 ........... prices from $40 for others listed on the same page

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=930+cv+joint&_sacat=See-All-Categories


I put a $45 one in my 308 and it works perfectly.

 

Yep , I got one too , good tool.

 

Do they fit F328 1986 models too.?

 

If the CV joint for a 328 is interchangable with a 308 (and I think they are ) then it should work.

Does anyone have part numbers handy for both F cars ?

How many Ferrari's are there in Malta ??

 

One thing to keep in mind if you're buying replacement CV joints - there's a vast difference between new/OEM and "rebuilt" The "rebuilt" CV joints are far from as good. Rebuilt just means that the balls have been measured and any that are out of spec (there's a very wide range of tolerance) are replaced with another used ball. They're then repacked with grease and sold as "rebuilt." So, for the $20 extra per joint go for the new joint.

 

Davide:

Nope. And I probably wouldn't have used them anyway if the clamps that came with the boots were the same as the clamp on the Pelican webpage (or the same as OEM Ferrari). I went to NAPA, AutoZone, Performance Parts and even Shucks and didn't like the clamps at any those places - too thin and not very secure. I've had those dimpled clamps come off and I've had 2 or 3 boots that were literally cut by the clamps. I like the thick ones that have a butterfly to bend over the bent over end. I'll check the brand on Monday and let you know. Birdman mentioned 'bandit brand' on his 'how to' (thanks Birdman!); it's a littile difficult to see in his picture, but those look like they have a rather secure end to them. What brand do you use?

 

Seems I've invented a new name. I guess that's what happens when you think Dave and type David; sorry David.