Power window problems in a 328 GTS

It maybe the switch. Try taking the 2 wires at the motor and do a hot wire test. Put +12V on 1 wire and ground on the other. Does the window go up or down. Now reverse the 2 wires and what does it do. If the window goes up and when reversed it goes down then you need to go back through the connector in the door and then back to the switch. My 2 cents here.

 

Sounds like a bad switch which you've already replaced.

Change switches, passenger and drivers side. If the symptoms change
to the other window, it confirms the (new) switch is bad. If not...your car
is defying the laws of physics. It can't be wiring or connectors as the same
are used up or down. It can only be switch. Try reversing switches before
doing anything else.

When motor gets battery + on first wire and ground on the second, window goes up.
Reversing it to ground on first wire and battery + on the second should go down.
If for some reason the motor only works in one direction (highly unlikely):
If you have access to the motor leads, disconnect and reverse wires at
the motor. The switch position which made them go up should now make
them go down. This confirms nothing funny is going on.

 

Assuming the window is not binding in the track, is it the same from using either switch (i.e. passenger & driver side)? . If one works & the other doesn't then you know the motor & relay etc are OK & its either the wiring to the switch or the switch itself.

However, given what you have already replaced I would start looking for a break in the wiring around the door shuts - perhaps do some continuity tests from the fuse board back through the switches to the motor.

If both switches (driver and passenger side) will both work in one direction but not the other then I would say to look at the wiring in close proximity to the motor & the passenger side door shut.

 

I have exactly the same issue I think:
- Passenger window can go down from any of both switches, but not up from any switch.
- Putting directly +/- 12 V at the window motor wires make it work (up and down).
- When motor is disconnected from switches wires (pins 2 and 5) : I measured +/- 12 V when one of the switches is actionned up or down (both switches seem to work ...).
- When I connect the motor wires to the switches wires, the issue appears : + 12 V when switch (driver or passenger) down, around 0.5 V when switch (driver or passenger) up. So, with so low voltage, no movement at all.
I checked again wires, connectors, fuses, exchanges relays.

It seems the gremlin is somewhere else ... Any idea 's welcome !

Note: My passenger sound speakers do not work (never worked in fact). I didn't care because I never used the radio. But I want to fix the issue now. Speaker is fine when connected to other battery, so there should be a bad connection at the radio or connector The pbs are not related because the window worked fine since last week...
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But they might be related. As Iain mentioned, it could be the wiring harness where the door opens. The harness should be routed so that the flex is spread over a long area of the harness, but sometimes if they get pulled or re-routed the flex is all in a small length and gradually all the wires break.
Looking at the wiring diagram, there are indeed wires in the door harness which are specific to one direction of the motor. This is because of the dual control of the passenger window. In fact the yellow and yellow-red wires are the ones to look for. If you follow the harness through the door into the body you might find the black harness sleeving is chewed up in one place.
Its also possible the break might be in the drivers side, affecting the passenger window as these two wires go from the passenger switch, right over to the drivers switch.
If you cant see anything damaged, try a continuity test by unplugging the passenger and drivers side window switches for the passenger window, and check the yellow and yellow/red wires on each side connect through to the other side. Bit of a pain removing both door skins though....
The problem has to be either one of these 2 wires or one of the switches. This is assuming the wiring diagram is correct...

 

Correction to above, just thinking its not necessary to remove the door skins to get to the window switches of course...

 

Or buy this solution.
http://www.birdmanferrari.com/windows.htm
I have also in my GTS installed, very simple, and spray switches from upside haybe half full with WD40.
My going up 6-7 sec. both sides.

Stefan

 

But adding the relay wont cure a wiring problem if there is one.

 

It is a wiring issue. The question is where. Mine does it sometimes, with the windows down, but not up. If I touch the wiring and wiggle it, the window will work. Swapping the switches doesn't fix it. Motor is fine. But the darn wiring...

Ace

 

Now we are more than 5 years after the last post and hope someone has found the cause or further info. I start having this issue as well with the Passenger (RH) window sometimes not going-up and after some time it works very well again and repeatedly. It Always goes down. It makes no difference using the switch on the LH door or RH door.
I have the electrical scheme and can only clarify this by an issue in the window switch in the drivers door (to operate the RH window) or an unreliable connection somewhere between the RH window motor and the RH switch.

 

First check could be the earth on the door frame behind the speaker (assuming its the same as the 308)

 

The motor has to work harder going up than down due to gravity, and they are a bit underpowered anyway, so look at mechanical issues. Is the window moving freely in the tracks? Try disconnecting the glass from the cable and see if the motor winds the cable both ways.

 

The grease can build up and get sticky, maybe look at the mechanics of the window also.

 

My 308 had worn channel felt. Replaced and cleaned gears out. No issues now. Very happy windows

 

He got it work when connecting to the motor directly... so its the wire harness shorting or broken somewhere. I'm with Andy, the likeliest place is where the wiring passes through the front of the door to the jamb and some part of the harness is broken or chafed.

 

The mechanics of the power side windows differs completely between 308 and 328, the electris scheme I suppose will be rather similar. At least in the 328 2 wires travel from the drivers door switch to the RH window switch as well as to the RH window motor. These are both '-' (mass, ground or whatever name ) until the switch on the drivers side is pressed up or down after which one of the 2 wires changes to '+' to move the RH window up or down. When the RH window is operated from the passenger side the RH switch uses the '-' (mass) from the 2 wires comming from the driver side. The RH and LH side have both their own '+' (power) supply.
Since:
1. its only upwards giving trouble and it makes no difference if it is operated from the driver or passenger door side.
2. when going down operated from the driver side the 2 wires are used so no break possible
3. power supply is o.k. since it goes down
There remain just 2 possibilities:
1. the most likely is the switch on the driver side: the '-' of one of the 2 wires is not working. Clarified by the fact that the contact wears down more than the '-' contact of the other wire since moving-up needs more power. I opened the switch and cleaned it with contact spray and all works well again. Likely I need to use a little sand paper to clean the contact more thorough and i will do that if it starts to hamper again.
2. the other possibility is a poor contact from the RH side windo switch to the motor but there is no reason why that should not be fine as tthe wires and contacts are fixed.

Below pics are from the driver door switch. The switch on the passenger side is identical but the wires and connector is not.
If someone needs more info or pics I can likely see for that.
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