Yes, another slow window thread

The wires swap polarity to reverse the motors, so no wire is constantly 12V or ground - they swap - this is done at the switch.

 

On my '82 GTSi The window channel molding was also a factor. Combination of hardened grease slowing down the gearing and the window glass binding on the rubber where the channel floss was worn away.

 

I like my windows slow...

 

Squirt your window channels with windex. Get them soaking wet. Then test speed. If speed is dramatically better change your channel felt and readjust the cable to make sure it is not binding (tilting) when it rolls up.

 

I am just starting the 2 relay fix and think I have the right information. But you mention an electrical diagram in you post and I am wondering how I can get my hands on one - just to make sure the information I have is correct. I know there has been a lot of posts about this but I am embarrassed to say I have a hard time locating old posts.

 

Buy two new modern motor and cable assemblies and dont look back. The windows work like new car windows, no relays, no monkey business.

 

I would not post it. You can buy it from Paul Bennet at Wiring Diagrams 308 365 400i 512 for a small cost.

Peter

 

Actually, it is a piece of art!
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It's in your owners manual also


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Oh, it's the whole car wiring diagram. I have that. I was thinking it was of the relay wiring.


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I believe I have 2 New Old Stock ones if you're interested. Factory parts, new. PM if interested.

 

It still doesn't solve how the factory set up the routing of the power. switching ground at the switch and the length of runs between said switch and window motor causes a massive drop in voltage and very high current draw. Yeah the dual relays are a it of a bugger to install but once done the main power no longer routes round the north 40 and back.

Now if one goes to the trouble of also ditching the cable routing then sure no need to re-wire the circuit... but that would be more invasive then just adding in two relays.

 

There is another thread on this issue here somewhere, please look. I for myself did two things. First changed the Fuse Blocks to the Birdman Type. There was an immediate increase in voltage to the window motors, but not enough to satisfactory. On Birdman's site there is also a link to the Window Accelerators sold by Rodney Dickman. Very simple to install and Voila! Work great and all I did on top of that is lubricate the cables and pulleys with White Lithium Grease. They are almost like modern car windows now. I am sure there are other ways to skin this cat, but that was my personal experience.

 

It fixes the problem. Ive installed a lot of them, how many have you installed?

 

would it be sufficient to replace the motors and just clean and regrease the gear assembly?
I cannot imagine, what should be better with new gears. Moreover since I again worry about 'new parts quality'.

But nevertheless I also vote for a relay setup. Moreover if one uses new switches. They are such poor quality. I purchased a set and after one year they began making trouble. I then repaired my old ones. The contact material of the new ones is plain crap.

Best Regards
Martin

 

A dozen or so why?

 

The aftermarket modern motors available are a new compact motor complete with gear and cable. Ive put them in boxers and 308's and testarossas. They work great but each model requires a different cable length, even one boxer to the next can vary such as injected to carb'd because the motor is in a different position. They work great with the original switches, fast like a new car and quiet.

 

Then you would know it fixes the problem if using the ones Im referring to.

 

I'm sorry that I have stirred the pot. But I guess it wouldn't be FChat without several opinions. What I am planning to do, is what a friend of mine has just done, and it works great - is to provide a new wire from the hot side of fuse panel to each door via the existing rubber conduits. There will be an inline fuse up near the fuse panel for each wire. Two relays will be installed at each window and will connect to the existing switch wires. A new ground wire will be provided back to the car via the rubber conduit and will be grounded to the frame. I will be using "Tri Flow" spray on the cable/pulley mechanisms. Oh, and clean up the contacts on the existing switches, unless someone can tell me where to get the nice new switches that have internal lights that someone here used, but I can't find the damn thread!