Lower Rear Suspension Fork Removal

I had the same problem with one of them. Got lucky that I could still pull the fork without removing it.
Before you get too crazy look to source replacement forks.
I have one ready for when I cut that fork off to do an alignment

Have you tried an air hammer?


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Impact air hammer + heat (If needed). If no room for hammer, cut off bolt head and knock it from the other side. I would do the outmost to keep the original fork intact and go for the bolt. Good luck...Best regards

Peter

 

Had that on my front lower arm. Did you try inserting a ball joint separator (pickle fork) into the slot below the fork and tapping/hammering that into place. For me, I just needed a bigger hammer. One strike, didn't budge. Two strikes, didn't budge. Three strikes, went flying.

 

With all due respect Wd40 is rubbish compared to penetrating oils that are formulated for this task.

Even the ones that penetrate vary a lot in effectiveness. PB Blaster for example is noticeably better than liquid wrench in my experience (here in the US).

When I had this problem at the front I used a pickle fork to start rotating it slowly back and forth by a few degrees. Eventually it got looser and rotated more freely. Only then did whacking it from behind with a BFH work. It took a couple of hours in total to work loose. I tried penetrants, heat, cold and brute force. Brute force won the day helped by the penetrants and maybe the heat.

It's good advice to source a replacement before hitting it with a lot of heat or a big hammer.

 

Angle impact will fit nicely. Spin the head while you wedge something in the other side to provide a little pressure.

 

Can you rotate the fork? If so you will have a chance with penetrating oil and heat are your friends. You could put a long bolt through the hole where the wishbone goes and work back and forth with the combined heat/oil.They can rust in place, if all about patience when I did mine many yrs ago had the same problem. Eventually came out and now they are all easy to replace as I put copper slip when re assemble. The forks are only a bend angle bracket with a bolt welded into them to make the fork. I am not far from you and happy to assist if needed.

 

Heat seems to be the best way that I know of. A small propane gas cylinder and torch attached, and you can vary the size and length of the flame on the torch. If you don't want to use an open flame, try an electric Heat Gun. On the "High" setting they give off a lot of heat. It may take you a bit longer, but that should work...

 

Careful with the hammer, it's easy to dent the chassis tube if you miss. For heat to work you really have to get it red hot. An alternative to flame is an induction heating tool. You might be able to borrow or rent one as they are really expensive to buy.

 

Yeah that was supposed to read "pull the A-arm without removing the fork"

Warning all of this steel bends pretty easily. I am convinced that mine remains stuck due to corrosion on the spacers. Someday I will go after it with a sawzall (but I have already sourced a spare fork).
The fork readily bent when i tried rotating it. It went back but that surprised me.



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Heat the fork from the wishbone ( outer) side gradually, not the chassis its about expansion/retraction of metals heat and cold. It won't go up in flames, if your that worried take to a garage or mobile guy with oxy actealane and get a very direct flame onto the bolt head from the wishbone outer side. Done it many times over the years.

 

If you’re not for using a flame then try the bigger hammer approach. Screw the nut onto the stud thread but not all the way so you will hit the nut, not the thread. This will destroy the nut but protect the thread. Use a really heavy hammer. This is how I got my forks off but my engine was out giving me plenty of swinging room.

 

It's about expansion/retraction when the bolt cools it will shrink to size and should eventually work loose. The chassis has a spacer welded through the which holds the bolt, you need to get heat in this as well which the bolt will convect over and then cool, you are breaking down the oxidisation of the 2 surfaces. It will work, I was like you, but when one of our more experienced engineers at work proved it. Being in engineering and we overhaul many types of drivelines, everyday is a school day. We sometimes use LOx at work to cool bolts to fit in specific large MTU engines. also use good old duck penetrating oil not wd40, that is only a water dispelling and has minimal lub

 

There's a lot of contact area between the fork stud and sleeve. The fronts have much less contact area so are easier to get free.
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Your right there John. Rears are a pig if stuck, photo brings back memories the first time I did them. Since then all mine come out quite easily. When you have owned one for over 23 yrs you tend to know where and how to improve things for the future.

 

PB Blaster and rotate would be my .02
Patience and good luck

 

Great thread!

 

I ended up leaving one in place. It would twist back and forth and had a tiny bit of linear movement that was enough to shim the suspension for camber but that was it.

I only had the car on axle stands so I couldn't give it an enormous thump with a hammer. I don't have oxy-acetylene or other such wonders. Should I have another go, I think I would now have the confidence to be a bit braver.

At the time, I shared my pain with Gavin - as always

 

FWIW the best penetrating mix I have used is equal parts ATF and acetone.Been pulling wrenches for 50 yrs. Mike

 

Nick your Mrs nail varnish remover. Acetone is used to remove it. Though you can get some of Amazon about £7 a bottle. If you buy a lot you might have a visit by the plod as it's an ingredient to make a bomb!!