Air Pump on an '83 308 QV

You should put the belt back on. That would be 100% stock for your concours desires.

It takes a hp or two only. In other words, your car is slower with the belt off and a full tank of gas than it is with the belt on and a half tank.

Which it to say you cannot feel any difference. either way.

 

I'd add that the components downstream of the airpump outlet (check valves, air injection manifolds, rubber hoses) will degrade more quickly with the V-belt removed. Best to either remove it all (and install the metal plugs in the ports on the cyl heads), or leave it all intact and working - JMO.

 

I believe it is frequently estimated to be about a half hp.

I agree with keeping the belt on and the pump working. My understanding is that the extra air is needed for the catalytic converters to work properly.

The thing that seems to be the biggest problem with the system is how the air injection manifolds at the exhaust manifold corrode and crack. For the first two or three minutes of cold start operation, air is injected at the exhaust header. Afterward, it is injected directly into the catalytic converters. I sometimes scheme about disabling/removing the exhaust manifold injection part of the system.

 

The only bummer is the whine. And the look.

 

I keep mine working.

 

If it makes your feel any better, on the 83' (like mine), there is a shear pin of sorts that is there to protect the motor if the air pump ceases. It works kind of like a snow blower. I posted a few pics of mine when I took it apart a few months ago. There were marks on the inside of the pulley carrier that indicated it had sheared in the past (done its job).

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Not the roll pin through the cam, take a look at the thread I posted the link to. The shaft that the pulley carrier is attached to has a thin section that acts as a "shear pin" when the pump ceases. It makes more sense when you look at the parts.

 

When I got my '81 308, the belt was missing and the pump frozen solid. Would. NOT. Turn.

Off it came.

 

If you need a new one get one for a 1974 Jeep j10 pu with amc 360. You will need to scavenge or fab the hose fitting.

 

Do a search here for compatible air pumps. I forget the American make/model (Buick maybe?) but it was a direct replacement.

 

I removed mine when I replaced all of my ignition wires because it made it much easier to access the rear bank distributor. Afterwards I just put it in a plastic bag and stored it on a shelf in the garage but I'll need to put it back on when it comes time to get an emissions test. On or off I really couldn't tell any difference in performance.

 

That is a compatible pump! I happened to own said truck and it's the same pump! What did you think I was saying?