Good evening, My most recent trouble: difficult starting & won't idle (after a few minutes running on light throttle) Very difficult or impossible to restart. Previously fine since having all ignition items & carbs renewed/rebuilt last year. I think fuel pump original, could this work intermittently despite being audible? Any thoughts much appreciated, thanks. (and yes, Ive been lurking for far too long!)
Just to get the ideas started: If you use your choke for starting, you might check to see if the mechanism is sticking. Good luck! Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I don't touch the choke: my mechanic told me not to plus I haven't needed it either (at least down to about 40F). Drove the car last week for first time in months (was running it every 3-4 weeks) not sure if any connection here.
Why should you not touch the choke?? What kind of advise is that? It's there for a reason.. (unless you live in an area with constant 90F environment) Anyway I would start looking at looking at the plugs to see if they are wet. Is petrol coming into the engine? As you stated everything on carbs and ignition is rebuild I would suspect an petrol supply issue
I have been told exactly the same and I live in England.It does seem strange advice but I have had no problems in 16 years of ownership in following it,and it has come from a number of Ferrari 308 carb owners. To the original question,I would certainly start with checking your spark plugs for gap and build up of corrosion as it has not been regularly started, then your points if still fitted. At this stage I would have no hesitation in fitting a Pertronix Electronic ignition system. The other problem could well be out of date fuel which will also give the problems you describe. Just be methodical and you should hopefully. be all right
Regarding the choke, one reason may be the lever inside the console is subject to severe corrosion caused by the small current it conducts to switch the choke light. When I redid my interior and replaced the choke lever was so corroded I could not even see the lock nut any more and had to cut the cable off. By that time the lever was starting to stick open. I drive my car in temps just above freezing before the snows arrive here in NY and I have never needed the choke. So while the correct maintenance is to properly lubricate the choke cable and replace the lever mechanism when it corrodes, I think many choose to simply not use it or even disconnect it. Regards David
Really appreciate all the advice, didn't realize the choke could be corroded by current; in any case if it starts fine without... I will check the plugs soon. Did have new Pertronix E.I. fitted also last year. I should replace the fuel pump as relatively cheap. My mech. thinks flooding could be happening due to spec of dirt, I'll try taking a look at this too...
I had a similar-sounding problem when I first finished restoring my 79 carb car. I'd been following the f-chat consensus startup procedure to turn the key, give three pumps of the gas, then fire it up. It would fire, stumble, sputter out, then finally go on the second or third try with the aid of the choke. Finally asked my mechanic, and he said - with an electronic ignition and proper tuning - one pump, then keep your foot to the floor and fire it, or you're flooding it. On warm restart, just keep your foot on the floor and no pump. I've found that it fires strongly since then. Haven't had it sputter out or needed the choke since.
Plugs are wet & black. (at least the rear bank) Ran the motor (1500-2500 rpm) with air box lid off... fuel appears to spew out from rear 2 carbs. It then idled at 500 (was more like 800 before)... new plugs yes, how to fix the problem though...simply drive it?
