NEW, UPDATED: F355 Radiator Fan Information

Okay, after two days of phone calls and emails, I have some new information on the SPAL radiator fans. Please bear with me, as it took a while to get the "correct" info, as some of the specs and information are not current or accurate that you find online.

The factory correct, oem fan is the SPAL 30102113. This fan has the following characteristics, 2467 cfm output, 27.5 amp current draw, and uses an unsealed motor. It comes with the correct weatherproof electric plug already installed, and sells for $220 each from the Fan Man: http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size....html?cPath=33 (note he claims 3000 cfm and 22.5 amp, but the SPAL tech support says that is incorrect, the latest spec sheets he has say it is 2467 cfm and 27.5 amps). SPAL USA will quote you the specs, and in fact sent me a copy, but requested I not post it to this forum, and I will respect that request. (but the document confirms what he quoted me)

Here is the factory product info: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102113 no spec sheet available on the spal website


I also found out that the fan we have been previously using is available with the correct electrical connector already on the fan itself, saving the work of splicing the old one on. It is the 30102050: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102050
Here is the spec sheet:http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102050_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
Same specs as the 30102049 we have used previously. 2028 cfm, and 21 amp currrent draw, just the same as the 30102049 (not 2070 cfm and 18.4 amps as listed on the Fan Man website). The only issue is the Fan Man does not stock them, and would have to special order them from SPAL USA.



So here is where it gets interesting. The first question, is why has SPAL USA repeatedly given us the 30102049/30102050 as the correct replacement? The reason is the factory part number (VA18-AP6-42A) is an oem number that is not in their system. So based on physical dimensions, they recommended the highest output oem type fan. We were finally able to determine with greater accuracy what fan this was when I described the heavier gauge wires, and holes machined in the motor housing. The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

The SPAL tech says that as long as there are no cooling issues, he recommends sticking with the 30102050 as it will have much longer life than the 30102113. I spoke with Dave Helms this morning, and he says he has seen no problems with using the 30102050 fans, and concurs that it would be his preference as well, but for a different reason; he likes that it draws 6 amps less current. He stated that even if the duty cycle was an extra 15 or 20 seconds to pull down the temperature, that would be an acceptable compromise for the lower current draw and stress on the fragile fuse box.

I think we have found the reason for the short life span with the oem fan motors, and why they draw excessive current as they age. They are not designed for this application, at least from a durability aspect. They are designed for maximum cooling without concerns for longevity. They are also running right near the maximum amperage for the 30 amp circuit at 27.5 amps, not leaving much margin for eventual wear and tear and increased current draw.

So there you have it. Oem fan 30102113 is $220 with 2467 cfm and 27.5 amp current, or 30102050 for $117 with 2028 cfm and 21.5 amp. The choice is up to the owner. There is a 439 cfm less air flow with the 30102050, but it seems to be negligible based on the users on this forum (I have yet to hear of anyone having cooling issues using the 30102049/30102050 fans. To be honest, I have not noticed my fans running any longer than before, with the original fans.

If anyone IS having an issue using the 30102049/30102050 please chime in.
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Yes, sorry, the link above is not working, try this:
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102050
Note that the link SPAL USA provides to the 30102050 for the data spec sheets is the data sheet for the 30102049/48, because they are the same fan with the exception of the electrical plug. The 30102050 has the correct plug for the F355 so no splicing required.

Again, it is NOT stocked at the Fan Man, but he will special order at the same price as the 30102049.

 

There are two fans, one on each radiator on the left and right side...

 

+1 you have the splicing down! You were fast! That was the part that took me the longest...I am not that skilled so cutting, soldering and heat shrinking took me a while to accomplish. The rest is a simple parts swap.

With the connectors already on, I bet the job could be completed in an hour to an hour and a half tops.

 

There lies the problem, the oem spec fans are not sealed, and if you drive in rain, water can get in the two vent holes in the bottom of the motor housings...and according to the SPAL tech (and the warnings) so can dust, dirt, etc, so it is inevitable they are going to fail an early death, or at least create a lot of current draw problems.

Let us all know if you notice the new fans running longer or not. I have not noticed it doing so on my car.

 

Bruce,
From my original post #1:

The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

 

Based on previous threads there are at least 8 or 10 people (and probably a lot more) using these fans in various parts of the USA (and Europe) with no issues reported so far. I know one local person in Seattle that has had them for over 2 years on his 355. I have personally driven in 90+ degree weather (stop and go) and noticed no issues (I have had them for about 7 months and perhaps 2k miles of use).

As Dave Helms suggested, the only perceptible difference one might notice with the lower CFM is the fans might run a bit longer. In other words Dave thought they might possibly run an extra 15 to 20 seconds to pull down the temps, versus the original OEM spec fans. Dave again, felt this was an acceptable operating difference, if it meant a significantly lower current draw over the oem fans (about 6 amps based on the specs given from SPAL).
To be honest, I have not noticed any difference in run time....but I am not using a stop watch either.

I am not opposed to using the oem fans, but I agree if someone wants to continue to use them, I would want the Dave Helms fuse box modification that moves the fan circuit off the main panel so you greatly reduce the risk of melting your fuse box. Then just be prepared to replace the fans on a semi regular basis. At least we have a reasonably priced source now for either oem or the aftermarket with this new data.

The 2049/2050 seems to offer little risk based on feedback so far, and along with the claimed longer service life, you also have lower current draw which may prevent fuse box damage.

But if anyone has had a problem with the 2049/2050 not suffiently cooling, then by all means, I hope they will post to this thread.