consoldated 348 to 355 spec suspension / alignment info & Qs

Your analysis of the situation is fairly complete. But a few notes:

Ride height is measured from the flat level ground to the center of the rearmost chassis pick-up point (bolt) on the A-Arm: As shown in ::

Front: Ride height: 162-171mm, Camber: -0.50 +/- 0.16 degrees, Caster: 7.0 +/- 0.16 degrees, Toe: 2.5mm +/- 0.5mm Inward
Rear: Ride height: 182-191mm, Camber: -2.0 +/- 0.16 degrees, Toe: 2.5mm +/- 0.5mm Inward

The corner weights also include driver weight sitting in the drivers seat (and its best to have 1/2 tank of gasoline in the tank.) The weights shown are for a 95 F355 and will vary to the 348. The critical part is to get the side to side and the cross corner weights well balanced (50% on the diagonal).

Oversteer/understeer can THEN be set by raising (more oversteer) or lowering (more understeer) the rear end by a couple turns on the spring perch (an equal amount on both sides.) By doing this, you will avoid the need for different sway bars, and will likely find a perfect setting even with the 20 year old springs.

If the shocks are not leaking and are are smooth, there is little rational to replace or renew them.

 

Since the 348 Series Specialé went with the same chassis pick-up points as used in the F355, you could simply measure a unbent F355 to get the data you desire. Might be easier than looking through a mass of semi-conflicting data.

I do have a picture (*.jpg) showing the chassis pick up point moved about 0.75" downward but this is far from accurate enough--so a measurement would be prefered. But I do remember I picked up this information indirectly through this web site.

 

How about challenge/competizione/fiorano specs?

 

The text above the image (2 paragraphs above) indicates the upper pick-up point was lowered 0.25".

I drew that image way back when the data was fresh in my head.

But consider:: Because the suspension is adjustible after the pick-up point is moved, errors smaller than 0.1 inches (latteral or vertical) can be compensated for with ride heights and alignments. Just make sure the front and rear pick-up points (on one a-arm) are machined with minimal error one-to-the-other.

 

I would be interested in the 355 Challenge setup. If anyone has that info please post it.

 

As noted earlier in this thread::

Front: Ride height: 162-171mm, Camber: -0.50 +/- 0.16 degrees, Caster: 7.0 +/- 0.16 degrees, Toe: 2.5mm +/- 0.5mm Inward
Rear: Ride height: 182-191mm, Camber: -2.0 +/- 0.16 degrees, Toe: 2.5mm +/- 0.5mm Inward

This is directly from the WSM.

 

Lots of old threads on alignment, but this one has lots of actual specs.

Thought I would share what I have been running on my 348 Challenge running the 18” Speedline Challenge wheels that I drive on street as well as track. I have a seperate set of wheels with Hoosier DOT A7 tires mounted. Running the DOT hoosiers so I can drive to the track and not deal with a trailer. I’m only a few miles from Lime Rock so easy for me.

Reviving this since some tracking discussions came up with tire pressures and such on the 348 pic of the day thread, and not alot of info for a car that does true double duty on street and track.

Rob at DeltaVee was kind enough to share lots of knowledge and give recommendations when I first got the car.

Here is what I have on the car now.

As an FYI, always be sure to set ride height first, then set alignment.

Ride Height in MM (measured from the frame just behind the front tires, and just ahead of the rear tires):

Front: 104 mm (measured at frame just behind front tires)
Rear: 114 mm (measured at frame just ahead of rear tires)
Rake: 10mm

Camber:
Front: -1.1 degrees each side
Rear: -2.25 degrees each side

Toe:
Front: 1.3mm toe-in per side (2.6mm total toe in)
Rear: 3.5 mm toe-in per side (7mm total toe in)

Castor to factory spec (typically around 5 degrees)

The front to rear rake is really key. Even if you want to run your ride height higher, try and maintain the 10mm delta!

On street Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the track, i’m running 31 psi all around. Ill have to post my Hoosier tire pressures over the weekend, as im not where my set-up book is this week.

Hope this helps!

 

It does help. Now if I can only find a shop that knows the 348 and has the proper alignment equipment, including corner weight scales, I'll be happy.

First thing I did when I bought my current, and two previous Ferraris, was to have the delaer do an alignment. Unfortunately, they only set to factory specs (I had rear wheel spacers previously).

 

If youre running OEM wheels, definitely get the Hill Engineering rear wheel spacers to change your rear track to the updated wider stance found on the later cars or that you get with the Challenge wheels.

 

I'm in the process of registering an out of province 1990 348 TS. Has rebuild title and has been titled like that since 2002. I have to complete a structural certification before safety, however, the shop is having a problem sourcing the spec dimensions. I was hopeful when I started reading this thread to find them here. To be honest I'm not sure of the dimensional specs needed, but they will be more than alignment. Anyone know where I can source chassis dimensional specs?

 

Jason,
I know this post is 3 years old now.
Are you still using these same alignment settings?

Pupose: street/track double duty.

 

Hi Paul- I think so, if not pretty darn close. I'll check my notes over the next couple of days and reply on here if same or if I made any minor tweaks.

Jason

 

LOL
In my world an alignment starts with a perfect base. I know not everyone has a 3D measuring system but it can help with some stooge ingenuity
Want to throw these in the mix for all to have for future needs

348 and 355 chassis dimensions

All measurements are in MM


348
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355

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Tim
That is way over my head. Sorry.

Jason,
I'm fairly close to your spec's, just running a bit less camber.
10mm rake, yes.
I have -0.7 degree camber in the front compared to -1.1
I have -2.0 rear camber, compared to -2.25

I am generally satisfied with the overall balance of the car.
I'm interested in the added camber for two purposes:

• all-around optimizing the contact patch, less dependence on the outer edge under corner load
• Slightly more eager turn-in, that is, reduce understeer from turn-in to apex.

 

Is anybody out there running more agressive camber?
More than Front -1.1 and Rear -2.25
For track purposes.

 

For a 355 challenge with stock fuel tank location this is my starting point
If you need more camber then that I would look for worn parts or a bent chassis.

Slight difference for my challenge with the fuel cell up front
Dont ask for my real corner weights thats too personal Im on a diet LOL

I leave this on my wall to remind me

here is my cars specs

https://deltavee.net/2013/08/ferrari-f355-track-alignment-recommendations/

 

https://deltavee.net/2013/08/ferrari-f355-track-alignment-recommendations/

"Camber, Front: 2.5 – 3.0 degrees negative. Rear: 2.8 – 3.4 degrees negative (NB: should have more negative camber in rear vs. front)
For a road car the compromise is ride height, just keep it as high as practicable, but use the rake and alignment recommendations with the exception of camber/ toe. This much camber combined with this much toe will increase tire wear rates."

Thanks, that's a great article, worth reading several times over to understand some of the fundamentals.
Can apply to quite a range of set-ups & purposes.

I'm inclined toward a middle ground, between Jason's numbers and the DeltaVee track-specific alignment.
Front Camber -1.5 and -1.8, depending on range of adjustabilty.
Rear Camber -2.4 to -2.6 in back.
And maybe a slight reduction in toe in the front, to nearly zero, but not toe-out.