355 engine out service w/ 4 post

I am using a 4-post lift to do an engine-out service on a friend's 355 so I figure I post a few pictures for fun and correct a few procedures that were listed before regarding an engine-out.

First picture shows the components that need to be removed for the engine to drop out with the bumper off the car. Removed are: air boxes, cross over hose, MAF and hoses to the engine plenum, coolant tank and its top plate, and power steering reservoir and its mounting. There is also a vacuum feed pipe/hoses underneath the MAF that needs to come off. Of course, all underpanels are removed as was the shift rod.

Remaining on the engine is the complete exhaust system from the headers to the muffler.

Timing belts changed, tensioner bearings changed, water pump rebuilt, valve covers repainted, oil pan dropped to inspect the oil pump tensioner block, and a surprise at the bottom of the oil pan - a 10mm nut, safely sitting at the bottom of the oil pan.

Then degreeing the cams, and the engine as it sits ready to go back in this weekend. After the cams were degreed in, all four cam shafts assembly marks were very close to the index marks.

More to come this weekend.
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Yes, I do but not the best pics. I can post some later this weekend when the engine goes back in when I will take better detailed pictures. It will be more descriptive.

 

Stuffed a boroscope up the headers and all is well. The car already had the headers replaced once, as well as both the coolant radiators too. Compression is very high 220 across the board so no valve guides issues there.

Hydraulic valve lifters were checked and were good.
Two engine mounts were broken and were replaced.
Injectors sent out for cleaning.
A bunch of little knick knacks were done...
Massive cleaning effort! The engine was very filthy.

It is time to put the beast back in, and drive it.

 

VHT red wrinkle paint, and then sand off the letters.
Simple green applied liberally, then carb cleaners for really stubborn stuff, then elbow grease.

 

Engine back in procedures w. 4-post lift.

We started with the car on the lift for storage.
Note the bottle jack supporting the back of the car at the jack point.
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Then, lower the car on to a moving dolly stacked with layers of 4x4 and a piece of plywood at the body, just forward of the gas tank (not under the gas tank). Now, the car sort of has some rear wheels.
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Roll the car back with the engine bay overhanging beyond the lift. Then support the car with bottle jacks at the rear jacking points and lift the car up high enough for the engine to slide underneath.
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Then, lower the body all the way down a few inches at a time, making sure to:

1. Feed the wiring loom over the tank, into the passenger compartment,
2. Move the oil tank around so that it does not interfere with the car
3. Move the brake lines so they do not interfere
4. Move the AC lines so they don't get caught up.
5. Loosen the anti-sway bar and push it around so it does not interfere
6. Loosen the secondary cat converter by-pass pipe and pull it back so that it does not interfere with the body of the car (or remove it).

Finally, jack the engine up the rest of the way with the two jacks under the engine/gear box.

Line up the 4 bolts at the back, fit them in.
Line up the 4 bolts at the top, fit them in.
Line up 5-6 bolts at the front, fit them in.

Tighten bolts to specs. Then remove the jacks under the engine.
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Put the ramps back on, and level them with some wood blocks
Install the rear wheels, remove bottle jacks, so the car can be pushed forward over the lift.
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Support the car at the rear jack points with bottle jacks again, remove the wheel, lift the car up and install the rest of the forward bolts. Torque to spec.

The process should take 2 hours with one helper.

This is engine installation with 4-post lift, for engine removal, reverse the process (assembly is reverse of disassembly)

The rest of the connections, hoses, panels, filters, should take another day.
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We fired it up today, after the 10 minutes required to get hot, and all the oil, coolant to get to wherever they need to go, the car purrs, and revs strongly. That tells me that the cam timing was spot on.

 

The lift allows access to underneath the car while standing up. It makes it easy to remove things. If the car sits half way over the back, the height of the garage door only allows the car to be lifted about 3 feet before running out of vertical room. That is not comfortable height.