I decided to create this thread since I am often asked to post the attachments and it will be easier to simply point folks to this thread. Attached is a pre-purchase questionnaire I created while searching for my car. Also attached is a Ferrari checklist used during PPI's. One other attachment is the 355 buyers guide. Here are some useful links: 1) Ferrari data base - excellent resource for manuals, workshop manuals, brochures, etc.: All Ferraris 2) 355 buying guide: http://www.the355.com 3) No affiliation and not related to the 355 - this is Pentagon Federal credit union - fantastic resource for used auto loans - they are fantastic - super low rates and very easy to deal with : https://www.penfed.org/ 4) A little bit of understanding related to keys and fob's: 1995 355's do not have an alarm or immobilizer. Beginning in 1996, all 355's have an alarm and immobilizer. Those cars were delivered with 2 ignition keys, 1 glove box key, 3 FOB's (1 red and 2 black) and a 4 digit PIN code that can be entered with a key sequence to start the car in the event the FOB is broken , lost or stolen. The PIN is also required to reprogram the immobilizer to accept new FOB's (with a new PIN). I highly suggest you be sure the car includes the PIN and that you try it with the key to be sure it works. It's not a deal breaker on a good car but realize that without this you may need to spend approx. $2000 for a new immobilizer kit with 3 new FOB's and new PIN. I've also attached a document created by Terry Phillips which is a great resource on this topic. I hope this is helpful. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, I have been a member for a relatively short time but even I can already tell you clear do Rock! Thanks for the helpful post.
Lol. Thanks. The "Dave Rocks" was my first username on a guitar forum. I'm too lazy to have different user names so I use the same everywhere. Glad this was helpful Neil.
Surprised it took this long for someone to come up with this solution. Thanks for putting it together Dave. Henry
Looking at a 4 owner 1998 355 F1 coupe. It has 12400 miles and has had 3 engine out services, 6 oil changes and a PPI done by Dave Helms 6 years ago at 9800 miles when the current owner purchased it. Compression was done and all within range according to my mechanic. All three ECUs were replaced with updated green ones. No header issues and a TUBI exhaust. What would be a good price? Needs a current engine out due to time but has only been driven 1900 miles since last. Car is super clean and does have sticky parts that need addressed. I was told the vin number is not a brass guide problem car. I was told the vin was outside the issues cars vin series.
A user just sent me a PM regarding colors so I thought this would be a good place to post the info I've collected via this forum and the net. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yep, Richard was awsome and the car is unbelievable. The inner barrels of the wheels are spotless and waxed. He deffinetly did not describe it to the fullest (in a good way). I have every single document as far as service since day one. I had to call a dealer to get a few that were missing but they faxed them to me. Now I'm working with the original dealer on a window sticker. This car looks like it has 100 miles even though it registers 12,000.
Thanks a lot, Dave, for posting this! I have been trying to nail down the interior color codes of the leather of my car, to match leather of a certain project we are undertaking at the moment. We have also found that most of these interior leather colors are *unobtainium* as the Connelley factory has already shut down many years ago. If anybody has a good source for Connelley-type leathers with perfect color matches, we'd appreciate a heads up! cheers
I was reminded yesterday that the car cannot be off the battery tender for more than 7 days (approx). Fresh battery and car barely started... On the tender now http://batterytender.com/products/automotive/battery-tender-plus-12v-at-1-25a.html
Dave, Admittedly I am unfamiliar with some of the quirks of the 355, but I find it very hard to believe that a new, GOOD battery will go down enough to make the car hard to start in a week. You would not be the first person to get a piece of XXXX out of a box that said, "New". Have you tested to see if you have some unusually high drain while the car is sleeping? There is a thread in the 360 board entitled something like "Best Battery"; I contributed my 355 info there last night.
Mine can stay off the tender for a month without a problem. Sounds like you've got a draw somewhere Dave.
Mine has stayed off the tender for 3 weeks without a issue. 97 here. Mine was probably built on a wednesday.
Ted Nelson: But why do they put a guarantee on the box? Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I've got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me. Love Tommy Boy My 1996 Porsche 993TT has alarm and immobilizer and it will take several months of sitting to draw the battery down. I think a week on your car is a bit quick.
Nice. Cars built on Wednesday are much faster than those built on other days. I read somewhere on the innerwebz that they only require belt service every 15 years and that the guides are made out of lunar rocks.
Correct. 3 weeks sitting under a car cover. I was out of town and forgot to plug in my tender. I had immobilizer nightmares the entire time.