I am seriously considering doing the engine out service on my own this winter. I have a 2 post lift specified and a location for it in the garage. I have most every tool I can think of....and most importantly a back up plan with a local ind. repair shop (Motion Products) So. I know a bunch of you have done this. I would really like to hear what tips / tricks / special tools you employed for the process. The coolant hoses and PS connections against the firewall look to be the nastiest part. Any tips there? Thanks....
OK, I could not resist - search is your friend Sorry I'm interested too and will also be doing this soon. I'll help all I can. What lift did you spec?
Tips: 1. Do not try to save the coolant hoses. Cut them off, or split them. 2. Two wrenches at the firewall, in one hand, is how you get the power steering hose. 3. Lower the fuel tank 1/4 inch. You're welcome. 4. First step, remove engine lid. Second step, or damn close to it, remove bumper. 5. Buy, find, the largest mofo adjustable wrench you can find with 2+ inch jaws Good to have a 2 post lift.
How do you guys get access to all the sub-frame bolts that connect to the main frame? They seem impossible to reach--certainly with an impact gun and socket. This is purely a curiosity question. I am NOT attempting this.
Ratchet straps, pry bars, aligning punches. I watched my mechanic use these when things were very close to fitting, but just needed a little tweeking.
Hydraulic lift table cart. He lowered the car to a certain height, then with the table cart raised the rear engine assembly up to meet the body. 1000 lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart
Thanks guys. I did read all of that. I am looking for the "Oh ****" that was hard...and here is how I fixed it.
Perfect. That's what I was looking for. Now I want to see exactly why I need to lower the fuel tank a 1/4 inch. I will open a beer once I learn the reason Engine lid is easy. I was going to pull the rear bumper. I see Bradan leaves the exhaust in the car when he pulls the engine. For me, I want the access and I can get the bumper off and the exhaust on my work bench in about 90 minutes. Thanks! Stay tuned for more dumb questions post Christmas
Hey, look at that. I was going to drop the engine on some jack stands and lift the car straight up. Work on engine under the car and then lower body back....nothing to align that way,. This looks pretty hand though.
An interesting tip from a fello F-Chatter I met at Cars & Coffee: after the lid is off, lower the top (spider of course) and remove the seats. Now you can stand inside the car and reach down to get at the power steering & coolant hoses. Hummmm Need to look at the seat pots anyway Might try this.
Not sure how soon you plan to do this but I will be designing and building a sub-frame cradle soon and I will share the drawings here. The lift table is not a bad idea and perhaps I will just design and build a frame to interface to a table like that.
My mechanic also used an exhaust stand to help align one of the lower subframe bolts on the drivers side that didn't want to go in. Again just slightly off on one side, but just enough. A couple of twists pushed the bottom frame up just enough to line the bolt up. Service Jacks & Lift Supports | Jack Stands | Sunex® 3/4 Ton Underhoist Stand 6809, 12" Diameter Base, Contoured Saddle Support | B1033941 - GlobalIndustrial.com He also used the hydraulic table lift below on a TR motor service. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Winner winner chicken dinner! If you don't need the bay to turn more cars there is no reason to do the shuffle. I have lumber with notches all set up specific for the job. When 99% of the stuff is severed I lower the car and engine on the lumber. Unbolt the subframe and shock tower etc... and lift body off engine. Work on engine and drop the body right back down. Almost no adjustment needed. Also for those with poor ceiling clearance no problem. The most comfortable way to work is on an adjustable stool. If you work sitting an 8ft ceiling works! Another tip buy a set of vacuum plugs and caps various sized. When you severe the brake clutch lines you can stop the drips with the caps and plug the residual pressure blocks. I hate fluid drips. So little fluid is lost you almost don't have to bleed. BUT always bleed and remember that air bubble has to go a long way to bleed well. I have seen a few of the residual pressure blocks not hold and drip. Make you life easy never let air into a master cylinder unless you have just rebuilt it.
Being that its going to be your first time dropping the engine by your self. Two of my tips are. Drop the oil tank while its still on the engine cradle, just remove the hoses from the oil cooler and take out the two bolts that hold the oil tank to the outter engine bay frame. This will make sense as you are doing it. The first time i removed a 355 engine was 10 years ago before many had done it at home and the internet forums were scarce. I was trying to take out the oil tank separately making unnecessary work for my self. My second tip is for when you are putting the water hoses back on once the engine goes back in. Due to the tight space down there, use a smear washing up liquid around the inside of the hose and around the pipe its being slipped onto. This makes slipping them home a breeze In my expereance, i have never removed seats and or dropped the fuel tant a little to remove an engine. Just An after thought, the most awkward fastener that i had was the Power steering hose nuts were the hose meets the bulk head. Soak the union with penetrating oil and use the longest spanners you can. Be careful not to crack the bulkhead pipe.
After 50 years of working on cars and building hot rods this is the best trick I've found. Image Unavailable, Please Login
