Timing belt noise after major

what car?

 

If 348...

Did you ensure those belt freedom of movement limiter pads at the top of each bank were set with a small (1mm?) gap?

 

The 348 is supposed to have its tensioner bolt tightened at the maximum tensioner load so you could have done it wrong, but it would not be too tight, only too loose. Only 2 possibilities:

1. Bad tensioner bearing
2. Bad water pump

Either way, the engine comes out.

 

Here is the text from the service manual. Now that I read it again, it does say that tighten the bolt when the tensioner is at its maximum extended position (least load). Which means you could have it too tight. The correct way is for you to turn it over until you observe the position of maximum extension, hold it there, and have your friend tighten the bolt.

It still needs to come out again. And by the way, your reasoning is totally correct. It is something you did (or did not) do.
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Another member here (on a 355) had to change lifters on one cylinder and he did so with the motor in the car by removing the gas tank. Perhaps you can resolve this issue the same way?

BTW, please don't misunderstand this is me endorsing an engine-in-car major, because I do not

 

You (your buddy) shouldn't have pushed the tension idler towards the belt but just let its spring apply pressure. With the tension idler bolt loosened, you should keep slowly turning the crankshaft forward while tightening the idler bolt.

 

I can see it now. Two big guys squeezing into the space meant for one smallish Italian guy, one with a breaker bar and the other with a torque wrench...

Guy 1: Dude, did you shower this morning?
Guy 2: I am holding my breath, why don't you do the same?
Guy 1: Get this done quick!!! I am turning blue!

 

Haha! That's great Mitch. I know I would not fit in there

 

I don't think that is what he is saying. The way I read it he applied torque to the engine and kept the belt taught while the tensioner bolt was tightened. That's pretty much the correct way to do it.

 

snug the tension idler = tighten the tensioner bolt, now I understand

 

Depends on who you talk to. They all had springs but yet the factory tells you to use a steager tensiometer and now a sonic testor. I wonder why??

 

What about lower timing case bearings?

 

How I understand the (poorly written) instructions in the workshop manual, the tensiometer is used only to check tension and the tensioning at installation is done using only the spring pressure which should provide 140-160 on the Staeger. Only one re-tensioning is allowed (within first 1500 km) if the tension has dropped below 110. Subsequently, if the tension drops below 110, replace the belt.

 

Never tried it on Ferrari, on our 1, 3 and 4 inch kevlar belts we use these tools to align and set tension or they will snap.
Y'All know how I play with Gates stuff

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKQBhis1sjk[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fn9cb5Xm2g8[/ame]

 

Can I borrow your sonic tension meter when I install my cams, Tim?

 

I have to say, the first time I had the belts on my 308 changed I was shocked to see how loose one belt was. And I mean LOOSE! With the engine off there was absolutely no tension what so ever on the drive side of the belt. It was like a fat man's belt around a skinny man's waste. Note, first time belt change. I.E., that's how it came from the factory. They obviously didn't spend much time checking belt tension back in '85. And, no, this was not due to belt stretch. I measured the length of both old belts. One was 915.4 mm and the other was 915.2 mm. Basically within the manufactured tolerances for belt length.

 

Idler pulley bearing for the accessory belts?

 

I dont know Dave kinda sounds like you do.

A bit at least, ha ha.

 

That is the water pump and one of the two Hill Bearing. I think he said it is done.

As for what to do now, I would take a stethoscope and poke around while the engine is running. ...