asking for help/ideas identifying a noise around LR wheel | FerrariChat

asking for help/ideas identifying a noise around LR wheel

Discussion in '348/355' started by ahirsh, May 5, 2016.

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  1. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    Hi all, I've had my 91 348 TS for about 3 months now. I've been reading and learning as much as I can on the site, and I've already solved a few minor issues with the information I've found. Yesterday though, I took the car out and noticed an intermittent noise that sounds like it's coming from LR wheel area. I took it back out today and I managed to capture a prolonged episode with my phone stuck out the window just after it started. sorry for the wind noise. This noise is not constant, and you may be able to hear at about 16 seconds it stops but there is no input from me to make it stop that I can tell.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbHcFzkw8Mg

    It comes and goes, and does not appear to have anything to do with speed. I will hear it at 20mph and yesterday I noticed it at 60 mph. Because of the nature of it and the sound, I don't think it's the bearings or CV joints, but I don't know. the CV boots look good on that side, and the car just had a major less than a year ago. The CV boots on the right side were replaced at that time. It almost sounds like something is dragging, ebrake maybe? I should have some time this weekend to pull the wheel off and take a look. In the meantime I was hoping that the sound in the video may give an indication of what it could be. thanks!
     
  2. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Feb 18, 2008
    5,969
    Indio Ca/ Alberta
    Full Name:
    Grant
    Do you know how to release the ebrake?

    You need to pull it up with button pushed then let it down.

    Forget it i forgot the light for brake would be on and i am sure you would notice that.

    Maybe a bearing. Could jack up car and spin wheels.

    Forget it does not sound like ebrake.
     
  3. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    thanks, the ebrake is released. At least the light is not on. It appears to work as it should. My ABS also appears fine as well, lights activate on the first position of ignition. I hear and feel the pump activate and then the lights go out.

    My thought about the ebrake was it sounds like something is catching/dragging. The more I listen to the video, I'm starting to wonder about possibly a belt. The car just had a major last year with cam belt, hill tensioners, new cam seals, new alternator and ac belts. But they water pump wasn't changed out. It's got me wondering if I was just thinking the sound was on the left side because that's where I heard it.

    I plan on doing as you suggested, I'll jack it up, check for play and see how the wheels turn. It's hard to pin down because it is intermittent, and doesn't seem to happen at idle, at least not so far. I give the car at least 15 mins to come up to temp and have not heard during that time.
     
  4. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Mar 31, 2006
    32,793
    East Central, FL
    Full Name:
    Wade O.
    Ha! I've been reading about exactly the same thing!

    Try this first (from another thread):

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/233940-348-bearring-noise.html

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/444713-some-brotherhood-help-needed-348-noise.html

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/416840-rear-wheel-bearing-fix.html
     
  5. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    Cool thanks! I should have time to at least do the ebrake test tomorrow.
     
  6. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    6,097
    Bugtussle
    Could be a sticky brake caliper piston allowing a pad to drag a bit. Next time it happens try applying light pressure to the brake pedal with your left foot and see if the noise changes or goes away.
     
  7. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Feb 18, 2008
    5,969
    Indio Ca/ Alberta
    Full Name:
    Grant
    Just a thought but maybe your brakes on that side are just worn out.
    While you have a wheel off just look at the pads, both inner and outer.
     
  8. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,503
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #8 348Jeff, May 6, 2016
    Last edited: May 6, 2016
    Take the car out for a gentle 10 min test drive doing your best not to apply the brakes or if you need to as gently as possible. When you get home feel the brake disc with your hand.

    If the shiny bits where the pads make contact its something causing the caliper to bind.

    On the other hand if the "Top hat" area (where the ebrake shoes are inside) is warm then your ebrake is binding. I wonder whether your ebrake has been binding and its worn down to the backing so metal to metal contact is being made?????

    Is your ebrake performing normally or does it seem very poor?
     
  9. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    thanks for all of the helpful suggestions. I'm going to try them all. I've been retracing my steps and my neighborhood is full of construction right now, I'm wondering if it's possibly something as simple as some dirt or mud that got trapped in my braking mechanism. I had to cross through some fresh mud tracks left by a pickup to get out of the neighborhood Wednesday, that was about 5 minutes before I first noticed the noise.

    On the other hand, I have the last 8 years and ~4700 miles of history on the car, and there has been no brake maintenance in those records. The PPI showed passable numbers, but I don't have that in front of me right now. Either way a good inspection is in order.

    Actually, I really don't know. I live in an area with very flat terrain, there are no hills or even inclines that would have caused me to test the ebrake through normal use. Most of the time the car is in its garage stall, I leave in first with the ebrake disengaged. The only time I engage the ebrake is to let it idle while warming up. That could be something else I could try: set the hand brake and see how will it holds while pushing on the car.

    thanks again for all of the ideas! I'll report back with results as I get them.
     
  10. Andy 355

    Andy 355 Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2013
    434
    Sydney
    Ive heard this before. From the other side of the planet, id be saying its the wheel bearing seal lip squealing. Obviously if it makes the noise while the car is at a standstill its nothing to do with wheel bearings.
     
  11. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,503
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    You could always jack up the car so the back wheels are off the ground and then rotate the wheel by hand and see if you can see/hear what it is
     
  12. Andy 355

    Andy 355 Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2013
    434
    Sydney
    What 348 Jeff said.
     
  13. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    yep, that's part of my plan. I'm hoping I can recreate the sound or something similar in a controlled setting so I can determine what it is.

    thanks! with all of the experience on the forum I was hoping somebody might be able to hear something familiar in the bad video I took of it. So far, I've never heard it at idle, so it indeed leads me to something related to wheels/bearings/CV/brakes.

    I am going to try to find some time this afternoon to get the rear end off the ground and start looking around.
     
  14. Andy 355

    Andy 355 Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2013
    434
    Sydney
    Sometimes the seal squeals at different speeds like its a frequency thing. Im tipping you wont actually see anything wrong.
     
  15. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    #15 ahirsh, May 15, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Early last week I pulled the LR wheel off and did a quick inspection of the rotor and pads on that side. I didn't find much at that point, I hit the whole thing with brakeleen and put it back together. I went for a drive a day or 2 later and was pleased that after several miles, no odd noises. then on my way home I heard a couple of short chirps, same noise but not nearly as bad as it was the last time.

    This morning I've finally had some time to tear into a little more to try to find the source of the noise. I have the calipers, rotor, and parking brake assembly off the left rear wheel. Turning the shaft by hand doesn't produce any noise, but I can't turn it very fast by hand. At any rate I don't hear any kind grinding or clicking in the hub face or CV joint. I don't observe any play in the hub face. Things seem to be ok from that standpoint. The shoes on the parking brake look pretty well worn so now that I have them off on the left side I'm going to order a full set for both sides. On the interior side of the left rotor there are some obvious signs of debris getting in between the pads and rotors, and one thing that has me concerned are the dark, flat spots on the outer edge across from each other. The outside of the rotor looks normal. The pads look fine all around. So based on this...what would you guys do next? Does the rotor look done? Any thoughts on the dark spots? The certainly look like hot spots, but the fact that there are 2 directly across from each other is interesting. I wonder if these could be my noise, and if so is there a deeper root cause?
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  16. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    I just wanted to update in case my lesson helps anybody...I made things much more complicated than they needed to be. I am nearly certain the louder noises I was hearing was debris getting trapped between my ebrake shoes and the drum. Even though the light would extinguish on the dash when releasing ebrake, I could still hear some resistance from the shoes while turning the rotor with the caliper off. Also, there were visible tracks inside the tophat where I could see it had been dragging. This was also causing a constant squeaking that I could hear when passing close to anything on the left side that would echo it back. I would guess it's been doing this on and off for quite a while by the looks of the tracks. There was ALOT of junk in there too, rust flakes and so forth. Those were making the louder noises. I replaced the rotors and pads in the rear and still had the issue, so in a moment of frustration and epiphany I yanked the hell out of the ebrake to release it and voila, no more dragging, no more noise. So the initial discussions about the ebrake was the path I should have followed, but it doesn't hurt to have shiny new brake disks and pads. Just went out for a nice drive and the only sound was engine tone. Now I need to see about properly adjusting things so I don't have feel like I'm about to rip the cable through the floor to release the ebrake.

    thanks for all of the help and suggestions!
     
  17. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,503
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #17 348Jeff, Jul 2, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Aaron - check out this little writeup I did

    Handbrake Overhaul

    Just a couple of points to note...

    After cleaning them up and with the handbrake completely off adjust the shoe adjusters inside each brake disc so you can get them as close to the inside of the discs as you can without any dragging.

    To achieve this remove the brake disc, adjust then replace the disk and check the movement is free. This is all with the calipers removed. A bit laborious but gets the best results in my opinion (you can do this with the disc in place by turning the adjuster with a screwdriver though the hole but not as effective in my opinion).

    Once they are both adjusted then adjust the double nuts on the front handbrake cable as per link above. You should be able to achieve a very had solid handbrake after about 3-4 clicks.

    Also, make sure that the P-clip just by the vented stone protector is solid as it affects the firmness of the travel.

    Finally, check the hole in the bodywork the front cable passes through as mine was rusted which also affected the proper operation. I had to get mine welded as it had rusted and it looks like this a common fault. See pic below where my cable had been pulled through
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  18. ahirsh

    ahirsh Karting

    Oct 14, 2015
    78
    Louisiana
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    thanks, Jeff. I should have mentioned that your write up was very helpful to me in digging into this so far. I was going to go back to your info when I go back in to make the adjustments. The information and pictures you provided was extremely valuable to me in learning about how the ebrake works and how to break down, inspect and reassemble the hardware. I did that on both sides and cleaned them thoroughly so they look as good as new. The shoes still plenty of material even with the occasional friction they have endured.
     
  19. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,503
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #19 348Jeff, Jul 2, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

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