So, like the title says; i'm going to convert a 348 into a racear. My passions where always Ferrari and racing. So why not combine? I started a 308 GTB/m Gr.IV rally car project a few years back. So i believe i'm now a bit wisef (i think) and more up to it then back in those days. Then i was in my 20's, now i'm a humble 32years old. There i had no expierence at all! But, i made it trough. Still have the car, very proud of it. I enjoyed it so much that i stopted my job as a simple baker and now i'm a full time classic car buyer, restorer and seller. How things can change. I purched a 1990 348 with only 28.000km. It stood for 16 years. The owner had a broken fuel pump and just left it in a very humid garage. The car speaks for itselfs... Instead of doing a complete rebuild of everything to make this jewel shine agian it's the best base for a racecar i believe. I was searching for a racecar and had this a couple of months untill it hit me last week i had the perfect base. Aldo perfect? I hear that it's not the best choise but hey, let's work with what we have. I'm no miljonair, let that be clear. I started the business in September and i'm trying to invest al my budget in there => cars. Classic cars make me money. I'm willing to spend some money but not go broke on this project. So basicly i'm trying to get a racecar, within a 'budget'. But more importently; within a timeframe. My goal is to do some testing this year to enter the races next year. I have litle to no expierence in car racing. Only in karting... I'm hoping i can get lots of tips and tricks of people who have the expierence and want to share it with me. My first tought to get some fast extra power was swapping heads with a 355. But in another thread that idea was shot. So back to the drawing board.
As far as ECU and injection stuff i have a matched set of KMS. This can be bolt on to the 348 engine (of 355?) It came from a Lancia 8.32 engine that was race preped. So this is already something good to start with. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A good thread should have lot's of photo's i believe? Here is the basecar! After a saterday afternoon i mannaged to strip already some stuff. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll have to take photo's in a lower resolution because i keep on getting troubles while uplading. No worries, i'll take some in low res. So for now; more letters and numbers. The class wich i'm willing to participate is the Belgian Historic Cup. Also known as Bravo racing(.be) There are only 4 races in a year. Our less famous Zolder (where Gilles Vilneuve died in 1982 in his Ferrari) Then our famous Spa Francorchamps Again Zolder and then last but nog least; The Nurbugring. The small F1 track, not the "Green Hell" As far of reglementation they are very openminded i believe. The car should be period correct and solid. The rules seem to be bendeble also. I called to inform myself and asked about the KMS setting on the engine and they said it's kinda correct so they'll alouw it. My toughts for now; *seeking some extra power without going bankrupt *light is right: going for the lightest as possible car i can build *having a fuel cell in the front ; so the weight is more balanced(?) I'll await your opinions! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lighten it up until it hurts, your best bang fr the buck 355 subframe if you can swing it with the 6 speed Big believer in ITB also Same heads bigger valves have the cams re grinded Stand alone ecu Safety equipment Your good to go EDIT Yes fuel in front is nice, one of mine has that and I like the feel better of the car. adjust suspension accordingly, also a adjustable brake bias works well with removable weight in front
Did the car get rusty from the humid garage? From the pictures it looks like a decent 348TB. What would posses you to think it would be better off tore up? Just curious what about the car swayed you from restoring it? I'm not sure where exactly you are located other then I assume the EU somewhere but I'll PM you on parts. Maybe if the price with shipping isn't too bad I can help you raise some money for that engine work.
Thanks for the reply's. The ECU and TB's are from KMS. A brand in Holland. They put a car on the dyno and then laptop it to the best standard. Everything is custom programmed. The setup is on my 308 as you can see on the pic. And yes, in the humid garage everthing got a bit, euchm, corroded. EVERYTHING. Car was repainted (in a humid paintbooth or is it from the garage) and now a blind man can read a book on it. See pics. I was wondering if there's a cheaper alternative in wheels? I found a set of magnesium Challenge wheels wich are the way to go but just asking. Also any link of thing i could buy to upgrade is welcome. And as for suspension; i believe the stock setup won't do the trick. I would be suprised if it did! Double brakebias is ofcourse on my list. Much weight is lost in the pedalbox and abs system The rules forbid ABS any way (and no fun in that to) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interior has to be the only thing that is in great contition Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't like the idea of the front fuel cell - the reason for the mid fuel tank/cell is so that the balance of the car doesn't change as fuel is consumed and keeping the weight as close to the center of the car as possible. The more weight you remove from the ends of the car, the better (reduces the dumbbell effect). Big diet, good cage and frame stiffening - particularly in the front spring perches which is a known weak spot and was addressed in the 355 challenge and later 355 street cars. I think the last place you want to spend money is the engine as your money will go farther in other areas of the car first.
racing-baker what is your name? I think you need to check the rules. They guide you as to what is legal and what is not and what you must have for safety gear and even the stickers you need to have on the car. When I raced my 348 it was down to 2750lbs but I can remember if that is with me in the car? It has been too many years. That was with 8 point cage 1.75" 120 wall dom tubing. If rules are unlimited the 348/355 is a really lame chassis. I would gut the whole thing and build a tube frame car or at least semi tube frame it. The 348/355 suspension does not work at all because the chassis flex is extreme. At least you have a TB. Coming from 308's the 348 must seem stiff but it is very very far from it. If you tubeframe you will avoid all the pitfalls of the 348 suspension and chassis. The issues with the early 1990 rear subframe now becomes a moot point. Ripping of the front suspension area also a moot point. For cheapness gutting the stock flywheel assembly will drop out about 13lbs iirc. It is in a thread on fchat where I tell you how to do that and the mass that is lost. The cost to do it was under 50 usd. Porsches work fine with fuelcell in front with worse balance. The 348 will work fine with tank in front. oem tank location fuel cells are available from ATL but supper costly...kike 5x the cost of a generic front rectangular cell. A 45 min sprint race consumed about 50lbs of gas iirc...it has been many years. So 50lbs over a race distance on a 3000lb car not a big deal. I doubt you would even adjust driver style for it. If you have to keep the stock chassis there are work arounds. 1) fortification with multi attachment rollcage, 2) fortification of front shock area, 3) welding rear subassembly to chassis making engine come out the top, 4) reposition rear pickup points for starters...
Well apart from the usual race car build stuff. strip it, cage it an lighten every thing you can. I would make a new electrical loom from scratch, the old one with the car sitting in a damp atmosphere i would doubt its reliability. Also the rads look like they could be replaced. Keeping the stock tanks is not a bad idea especially for the budget but you could foam fill them to stop the fuel sloshing around. Look at the challenge parts, mainly for brake ducting ideas. after that i would be going to the f355 challenge parts book/manual they had more mods such as cooling for the gearbox, bigger anti roll bars. Currently rebuilding our endurance car and starting with a bare shell is the way forward. Race Car Rebuild - Page 1 - Readers' Cars - PistonHeads J
Good stuff here. But i'm a bit worried if i weld the subframe is then not very difficult to get the engine + gearbox out? A good chassis is indeed everything. I need to stay with the original car as far for rules. And how about brakes? Can the calipers stay? I would get some lighter 2 piece discs for them and ofcourse good brake pads. Ow, my name is Enzo by the way
Enzo, Selling in the main forums is not permitted unless you are a site sponsor, so you're going to have to do any selling in here: Ferrari Parts & Collectibles - FerrariChat.com I suggest creating a parts sale thread there to list parts, discuss prices, and conclude transactions. Once up, you can advise folks to check your sale thread in the classifieds for parts. All the best, Andrew.
For go faster bits of the shelf AP do a 355 kit that will fit, giro disk do 2 piece disk and bells. Clutch Home Single fly wheel and clutch set up dampers Quantum Racing Suspension | Racing Shock Absorbers the owner runs a 348, or moton-ast in Holland as they do a 355 set-up 355 chanallange suspension bushes. Super performance in the uk do a budget exhaust but a decent fab shop should copy the challenge type.
Cool. Ok enzo, Then you need to keep rear subass the same. Brakes marginal as long as you don't add power. Add power then bigger front brakes. You will need about an 1" bigger rotor and more poston caliper to reduce pad taper. Stoptech brakes has an easy solution easy available in the usa. Brembo harder to get easily. Maybe easy for you to get. I do know stoptech tests their system well to work with stock master cylinder and no abs. If you are gutting the abs and master then you got to do your own work to set up that important brake balance using something like a tilton pedal set.
I cleaned up the thread. To Enzo, Mike and others: This is not a classified thread. If you want to discuss buying/selling, either place it in the Classifieds or take it offline.
I'm sorry, i had no attention to brake the rules. I was just mentioning. Wil not happen any more! So lets start with the stock calipers for starters. Thinking on starting simple and grow on the way. Thanks for the tips so far; GOOD STUFF! Looking forward to start the 2nd day of the project (normaly this saterday) I have seen some examples of 348LM cars and the Belgian Ecurie Francorchamps car. The Ecurie Francorchamps car is the only one with fuel in the front. Looks te be more extreme then any other. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My modification ideas: Lexan rear and side windows 550 brakes + cooling ducts like 355 Lithium ion battery, -15kg (Shido LIX30, Shorai lfx36 or similar) Test pipes and race exhaust, -25kg Carbon seat, -20kg Airco, another 10kg Strip cabin Mag Wheels Nothing new to you I suppoose Frank
AP Racing 355mm front brake kit for the 348/355. It may also be possible to change the dics to carbon ones. As a previous poster has said, Quantum Racing adjustable suspension system. Titanium wheel bolts from Ricambi/Hill Engineering. You are looking at around £5,000 for the above parts. You will also need to change all the rubber suspension bushes.
