360 F1 pump on 355 F1?

"technical" versus it's better? It's not available is the first problem.

The OEM 355 F1 pump is embedded in the solenoid assembly which is NLA.

NOS of this unit may be available but at price tags of around $15,000 to $20,000.

A 360 pump conversion will provide the necessary pressure to continue operating the system.

A better question from a technical perspective would be the operating pressure of a 360 pump within a 355 solenoid / actuator system.

Is the pressure different? Higher? Lower? Long term effects on solenoid valves? The actuator itself? All interesting, and unknown, consequences of the change.

 

True. My car came to me without the OEM 355 motor / pump.
I can say that the 360 version is a two part system:

1. Pump assy
2. motor assy that drives the pump.

Is the 355 pump assy the same two parts? I have no idea.

Having disassembled and repaired a few 360 versions, the pump was never the issue. In fact I doubt the pump would ever fail. The electric motor on the other hand fails due to brush springs breaking.

Internal 355 OEM pump electric motor would be a fun project. I wonder if the repair would be as simple as the $10 fix on the 360 version?

 

Dave
I have done many 360 pump update's. In two words no more heat soak on those hot days, plus the pump prime's in three or four blinks when cold.My stock pump was taking about 15 blinks when cold just before i started having problems.On my 355 spider i had put on 50k km with the update with no problems to this day.If thats not enough i don't know what is for doing the update.If you look at one of my threads <355f1 360 pump update some great info $$$> On my yellow GTB someone had done the update without buying the hill adapter.I have a photo of how they did it and the car worked fine.It will save you about $550.00.
Michael

 

Mike replaced mine. I got stuck in traffic on a hot summer day. I had to wait a few seconds to get it into first gear. Motor was overheating I assume and was unable to build pressure fast enough.

Priming also took a long time. Kinda sucks when you're just going out for a coffee or something and hop in to your car and are waiting for the blinking light to go away.

The 360 pump is much cheaper than the 355 replacement and performs better. I feel like the shifts are slightly more crisp but that may have something to do with comparing it to my old pump not operating at full pressure.

Either way...hot summer days now, zero problems in traffic. Primes quick as well...2-3 blinks. I don't see the point in rebuilding the 355 pump unless you're going for complete originality.

 

I think the primary reason is the lack of availability of original parts and the overall better functionality and performance of the 360 pump all around.

If you can rebuild the 355 pump economically or if you just don't care and will pay whatever to keep it all factory original, then that's up to you.

 

I would imagine something along the lines of internal seals etc. in the pump start to degrade causing it work harder, leading it to the heat soaking issue which compounds the problem.

I don't doubt the pump could be rebuilt if you have some time to tinker with it.

 

Does anyone have an old 355 pump left over from a 360 conversion? I would like to open it up and see if the brush springs are shot. If that is indeed the case, it can be fixed pretty inexpensively. Sealing it may be the issue.

 

The original pump motor was integral to the valve assembly and was not very high quality. They will eventually wear out. The pump only charges an accumulator, the hydraulic pressure in the accumulator is what operates the actuator. When a different pump is installed it makes no difference if it is capable of producing 50,000 lbs of pressure, the same old pressure switches are going to keep the accumulator pressures at the same level they always have. The placebo effect is a powerful thing.

 

Juri on this site has the motor available for less money. Has the pump as well if you need it.

I have three 360 motors and two pumps (don't ask). I'll try and get ambitious this weekend and post pictures and identify all the components so we can all talk the same language.

Would love to do the same for the 355 version.

 

I'm pretty sure that some time ago (couple or few years back) someone posted about a replacement motor. I recall reading the thread.

 

to avoid jumping from thread to thread..

whats the use of the Hill adaptor kit.. if its possible to setup the 360pump without it..?

if it can be done without it.. that would seem the best route.. and as I understand avoid the labor involved to fit the adaptor..

regarding heat soak to the F1 system .. ive heard about it.. whats causing that..?

 

I think there can be many different problems why the system is not working right.I know on my spider it was just the pump motor first which i had rebuilt for $75.00 and it worked great for the next 5 mths.Then i started having problems again.I then did the 360 pump update which is still working fine to this day after 50k km.

 

Yes. Juri has the pumps & the motors. I have not contacted him in quite some time, but he was ton of help when I was struggling with all of this.

 

Thanks. I feel better about the pressure concerns I had.

As far as the motor "wearing out". What wears out? I suspect it is either the brushes or the brush springs. Both replaceable items at a reasonable cost once the assy has been removed.

Surely the pump didn't wear out did it?

 

I know in my motor that i had rebuilt it was the brushes that wore out.Come to think about it one brush was stuck.

 

Having worked with large commercial motors, pumps, compressors etc I can pretty much say the motor interface is usually the problem.

Given the very clean environment this F1 pump works in, I suspect it would last a very very very long time. The electric motor on the other hand seems prone to failure. Usually brushes or brush springs. Not surprising and an easy fix. Getting the damn thing apart and back together gain seems to be a bigger problem.