Hi All, in another thread I already posted that I have an issue with my lhs fan. But to not to pollute that thread any further, and because I might have a different problem, now in a new thread. The symptoms and conclusions: - LHS fan does not start up, the RHS fan starts at around 13 hours on the temp gauge. - when (before that) after starting, the temp rises to 12 (90 degrees celcius), I can notice the thermostat open, because the pipe to the left radiator suddenly rises in temperature from ambient to 70-80 degrees. Conclusion, the thermostat works. - the lhs fan does work, when the connection is jumped. I already switched the relays on the fuse board (not really necessary when the fan works I guess) - when I measure the temp on the filler neck of the lhs radiator, it gets to 95 degrees celcius. The switch on top, 5 inches to the right, does not get up to temp. It reaches a max temperature of say 75 degrees, not enough to open it. - I replaced the switch already with a new one, from a Fiat Cinquecento 0,9 liter engine (good to know, a 15 usd part readily available in Europe!) So it all points towards an air bubble. But: - when I start the car with the cooling cap off, the level of coolant quickly rises, even with the engine only half warm. So I had to close it again to prevent it spilling out. When cold, the level is the required 6 cm lower than the top (as per WSM) - the air screw on top of the thermostat housing lets out no air, only fluid. - I was able to check the short small hose to the reservoir, and it is open. - I opened up the switch a little, hoping that air would come out, but it only started to leak fluid. - I do not believe it is the waterpump (new), as when I restart the hot car (105 degrees or so), with the wire jumped and thus with the lhs fan also working, the temperature drops within 10 seconds to 90 degrees as it should. Only possible with a working waterpump in my opinion. And this would rule out a blockage as well. So what have I missed? I am starting to think that the normal switch that I installed, should be a very low temp switch, like opening at 70 degrees or so. But the WSM does not point me in that direction, it says 88 -82 degrees, and I do not see the switch get that high. I assumed that with the brass switch housing, the outside temp of the switch would be more or less the same as the inside which has direct contact with the coolant. Did I assume wrongly? Any suggestions would really help. Thanks.
Have you tried placing a jumper wore across the thermo switch in the radiator? If you jump across it the fans should come on as it is equivalent to the switch closing. This will check the entire electrical connection to the fan. If the fan doesn't come on then there is a wiring problems somewhere. Get the car up to temperature first.
I have jumped the connector that goes on the temp switch. The fan works right away when I turn on the ignition. (that is how I checked if the system is working as it should (flow etc) when the fans works) But you mean a jump on the switch itself? I am not sure how that is done.
Does the fan work when you turn on the airconditioning? (EDIT: Disregard. I just saw your last post. If you've already jumpered the plug going to the thermo switch and the fan works, then that means the circuitry is ok. i.e. other than, perhaps, the thermo switch itself)
yes, but how? When I leave the cap open, the coolant spills out long before the engine reaches its normal temperature...
What is going on is the big air pocket heats up, expands and pushes the coolant out. You just need to let that happen and refill the coolant when the air has escaped. It is a mess..
So I better start with removing some coolant I guess, before I start the procedure.... Thanks, will try this tomorrow, keep y'all informed
+1. Pull the plug off the radiator thermostat an insert a wire between the two connections (with key on) the fan should kick on. I used a bent paper clip. The jumper didn't work for me so I checked the connection to the fan itself. I had replaced the fan about a year before. The connection wasn't seating right any longer. Some fiddling & it works fine now.
Ok, so I removed around a litre of fluid from the reservoir, and replaced the Fiat cinquecento LHS temp switch with a Opel Calibra 2.0 switch ( = fiat Ritmo series 1 from the 1980's), which is a bit lower in temp compared to the fiat 500. Then I started the car , and let it warm up. it kept on bubbling in the tank, and it spilled a lot in the end, despite the removal of already 1 liter, before it settled on a level close to the top. The lhs fan now kicks in much more then before, but still does not turn full speed longer than say 5 seconds, and then rests for like 30 seconds before it starts again. But I believe that is normal, I have read that somewhere I think. I am curious at what level the coolant will be when fully cold.
Hi Robbe, Just ran the car from cold up to the left fan kicking in (at approx. 95deg). It ran for 5-10 seconds then shut off. I switched the car off after that. I didn't wait for the fan to kick in again as the neighbours don't exactly appreciate their fine china rattling off the shelves... So normal I would say.
Great. So problem solved (after filling it up to 6 cm under the top tomorrow). And for the parts cross reference list, the LHS temp switch is a Fiat Ritmo series 1 / Opel / Vauxhall Calibra 2.0 part.
As I live in The Netherlands, Europe, I doubt if it is any use to you, but over here we have a shop like your Rockauto and pep boys, called Brezan. And they ordered the part for me, was in the next day. The Fiat Ritmo is not very common anymore (never was actually), but I think the Opel/Vauxhall Calibra connection is easier to find. Anyway, universal parts shops have big catalogues where they can find the part for you easily when looking for Opel/Vauxhall. Be sure to get the right temp spec, 87-82. Closing a little later would not be a huge problem I think, so here is an Ebay link to a slightly later closing one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-RITMO-REGATA-TEMPERATURE-SWITCH-RADIATOR-FAN-86-76-DEGREES-FISPA-/182311077930
