I should clarify that this is an electric motor for the F1 system not the pump or accumulator. I recently purchased an electric motor from juri, the same guy who sells the uograded relay for our F1 systems. This motor is plug and play with a few minor mods I am sure he will adjust or you can adjust as I did The motor was ins talled in about 1.5 hrs and seems to provide the same function as the original.
I would just like to thank Yuri for his solution which was basically plug and play. The process was Remove airbox Remove rear wheel and wheel well liner Loosen F1 nuts on bracket 2 Slide F1 unit up and off bracket Remove two hex bolts holding in old motor Remove motor Install a 1/4 inch rubber spacer between rubber mount and F1 unit bottom post This lifts the pump and motor assembly about 1/4 inch Bolt in new motor with supplied hex bolts Reinstall everything Took about 1.5 hrs with a few breaks etc.
Th new motor fits inexactly the same place, no need to re bleed system, the whole system sits 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher. Still uses same heat shield with no adjustments. I feel its the best aftermarket set up. Only problem I see is if our old accumulators are starting to go.
Your pump will prime every 10 seconds.If you open your cap you can watch your ATF go up and down as the pump prime's.
If the accumulator is bad - it's not going to hold pressure so yes, the pump will run more often to compensate for the leakage
I bought it from Juri have no idea and not a sponsor. Its an aftermarkey motor that I am sure he bought with no markings and built an adapter plate and delrin adapter for coupling only. Sorry Ernie.
Mike no one seems to want to post how long a new accumulator will hold pressure. If you let car sit, not running how long between cycles of the pump and motor?? This I would like to know!! This way we would know when accumulators are getting bad!,
Also if the nitrogen is leaking bad the fluid supposedly gets milky. Third party info. Anyone know what the pressure is inside the accumulatorfrom factory for the nitrogen. Also can you change the accumulator without the sd3? It looks like you could since a bleed port is right there .
Grant It all depends how long the car sat.With my 360 pump update the next day it would blink 1 or 2 times.If it sits for a week it could take 5 or 6 blinks.
Mike, Grant is trying to get a baseline from an "as new" system. That is obtainable and has nothing to do with how long the car sat aside from a fully depressurized accumulator.
It seems pretty good mine has never been that good from when I got it. Mine used to take about 11 maybe from months left alone 10 plus years ago. The last 5 years about 12 to 13 and after24 hrs likely 11. 1 hr likely 7 to 9 2 days back to 13 This year when motor started to heat soak I checked and was 20. It was failing though. I am. Thinking maybe accumulator caused motor to go. What about car off let pressurize and time how long before pump kicks in. Engine off
Its a bladder with nitrogen on the back side, hydraulic oil on pump side. No way to repressurize. If I knew pressure I might replace with a refillable one for next time. Anyone any facts about that??