F1 Accumulator Bulb Replacement Procedure | FerrariChat

F1 Accumulator Bulb Replacement Procedure

Discussion in '348/355' started by WATSON, Jun 28, 2017.

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  1. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #1 WATSON, Jun 28, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Ferrari 355 F1 Accumulator Bulb Replacement
    June 28, 2017
    WATSON - FerrariChat

    Symptom: F1 system takes too long to pressurize at start up. Pressurization cycles more frequent or cycles inconsistently during normal operation.

    Despite a new pump motor and a confirmed good pump, my car required 11 – 18 flashes before fully pressurized from an overnight idle state. After repair the system pressurization time was consistently 4 flashes.

    Problem: Compromised or failed accumulator bulb.

    Solution: Replace the accumulator bulb.

    Parts:
    Accumulator bulb – Ricambi or others (90 BAR .035 liter capacity) (Fig #1)
    Union kit 14 mm threads / Buna or crush washers. (Fig #2)
    https://www.ricambiamerica.com/58552368-s-union-kit-for-accumulator.html
    ATF Fluid

    Tools:
    5mm hex head wrench – to remove engine trim panel
    Strap wrench
    Large oil filter removal tool (with socket extension) (Fig #3)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAQVW74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Open-end wrench to install unions

    Process:
    Ensure the car has been sitting long enough to allow any F1 system pressure to be relieved.

    Disconnect battery

    Raise the car and remove the driver’s side rear wheel

    Remove LH rear fender liner

    Remove LH engine cover trim piece

    Place strap wrench around accumulator bulb and tighten strap so it does not move from the accumulator bulb.

    Place fingers of large oil filter removal tool over accumulator bulb and rubber from strap wrench. Attach a socket extension long enough to get socket driver above fender (Fig #4) Loosen and remove the bulb. Little to no fluid should escape.

    Install crush washer onto female section of the union and install union onto the F1 solenoid assembly and tighten.
    Install second crush washer on top section of female union and install male section of union and tighten

    Fill union completely full of ATF (or F1 fluid of your choice)

    Place bulb on male union and tighten.

    Tighten to secure using strap wrench / oil filter tool.

    Replace engine trim panel
    Replace fender panel
    Install wheel
    Lower car
    Turn on battery

    Notes:
    Rightfully, there is some concern about introducing air into the system during this repair. An SD computer may be necessary to bleed the system should that occur. However, I successfully did the repair without that need.

    Once committed to replacing the bulb I did not delay on the installation of the parts to seal the system back up. The result was a fully functional system without an SD computer bleed requirement.
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  2. drbob101

    drbob101 F1 Rookie
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    Excellent work!
     
  3. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #3 WATSON, Jun 28, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. tres55

    tres55 F1 Rookie
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    I wish I had that filter wrench when I was trying to get mine off. I broke two strap wrenches trying...
     
  5. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    I broke one and decided I needed a new tool. I snapped the strap right off at the attachment point. The filter wrench made this a breeze.

    Thank you for all your guidance and information. I appreciate you taking the time to call and discuss your experiences. Hopefully we took the mystery out of this one.
     
  6. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Nice writeup, and that is a nifty little tool.
     
  7. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    A generic view of how these accumulators work. I found these links interesting:

    Accumulator | craig-waterman.com

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMDE5v3ouN8[/ame]
     
  8. JSBMD

    JSBMD Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2007
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    Obvious from that video how these accumulators fail-- the inner bladder simply bursts when it's old. Thanks for posting that video Watson.

    This was my problem a few years back. Big headaches until solved by a second shop (first shop unable to figure this out, burned up a new pump attempting to diagnose this issue). Been good ever since.
     
  9. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    They also fail by oil migrating into bladder over time
     
  10. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    #10 phrogs, Jul 4, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
    Seems these accumulators don't enjoy a long life span, not supprized as these hyd systems don't get a lot of use and that's usually a reason for them to break just sitting there.

    My car even with a new battery (rifleddriver said a weak battery can cause excessive prime time) my car still takes about 15-18 seconds to pump up.

    But I'm not noticing any symptoms after it's primed, I'll have to check that.
     
  11. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    I dont recall time but hiw many flashes of light from keyon
     
  12. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    Well I counted 11 flashes after an over night sit of at least 12 hrs.
     
  13. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Watson- Nice job. Saved your pdf to hard drive. Definitely a different type of oil filter wrench.
     
  14. Subarubrat

    Subarubrat Formula 3

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    #14 Subarubrat, Jul 13, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2017
    Well, I planned to do mine today but the bulb, febi part # 01817 is apparently the wrong part. The threaded fitting is too large to fit into the union which is from Ricambi so it should be the right size. The union kit is part # 58552368-S and is labeled as union kit for accumulator bulb. Anyone have a brand/part number they can post for their bulb?
     
  15. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    The threads on the OEM bulb / solenoid valve assy body are 14 x 1.50 fine thread. The threads on the union are also 14 x 1.50.

    I bought my bulb from Craig Waterman (link above).

    No MFG is listed, but the markings on the bulb are:

    MM ED 0093648B
    92BAR / 0.35L
    035-4315-203-441/27 B3565
    01K

    Supposedly same as used in BMW ABS brake systems.

    Hope that helps.
     
  16. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #16 Dave rocks, Jul 13, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    based on the photo from Craig's site, that accumulator does appear to have wrench flats and I'd imagine the inner wheel house may need to be removed to gain access to use a wrench
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  17. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Yup. As in the directions posted above. Flats or not, the inner wheel housing really needs to come out.
     
  18. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Just a follow up. I now have a bout 1800 miles on the car after the bulb install. 350 yesterday with the Milwaukee Concourse drive and car show.

    The car has never run like this in the 6 years I have owed it. Proper shifts and full confidence in the system. It is fantastic. I like my F1 transmission system better than the manual gearbox 355's I have driven.

    Wish I had replaced the bulb earlier in the trouble-shooting process.
     
  19. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #19 Dave rocks, Aug 29, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  20. sevminasyan

    sevminasyan Formula 3

    Jun 24, 2008
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    Thanks to all input, specially from Watson, I have replaced my accumulator on a 63k mile 99 F1. I thought I'll give back as much as I could for the next fella in case this issue comes up and to confirm the issues. This is the tour de france blue car I had acquired from Georgia.
    Issue
    Wouldn't shift into any gear but in reverse. Engine running or not.
    Couple of paddle taps and would jump in to second or first, no higher.

    Had a friend try it while I lay under the vehicle and look at the actuator movements. It received signal and tried to put ii into gear but after 1 cm movement it move move out. Figured there is not enough pressure to push it in.

    Ordered the accumulator, replaced it this morning 80% fixed. The car goes into reverse, neutral, first and second either driving or with key on. I am able to pick up speed in second and while in motion put in it neutral and in one tap shift the car selects the appropriate gear based on speed. From here I am able to shift down through all gears.
    The only issue remaining.
    Not able to upshift from second to third and remaining gears. Otherwise, everything else functions as it should. May have to see if air got into the system or maybe reprogram at the mechanic

    Any other suggestions of ideas?

    thanks
    Steve
     
  21. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Steve you should start a thread of what you have done.

    Does it work in auto through all gears?
     
  22. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #22 Dave rocks, Sep 16, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2017
    Speed sensor is toast. Edit - does it shift all gears at a standstill with engine off? It should. If not, it's another issue. Possibly actuator centering procedure needs to be done
     
  23. jg360

    jg360 Formula Junior
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    Steve did you ever figure out the cause. I have the same issue
     
  24. sevminasyan

    sevminasyan Formula 3

    Jun 24, 2008
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    Yes it was the accumulator with a bad balloon inside that would not let the air and oil pressure to build up evenly
     
  25. sevminasyan

    sevminasyan Formula 3

    Jun 24, 2008
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    Step 1
    Go under the vehicle and remove the actuator boot
    2. Have someone go through couple of shift while u r underneath looking at the actuator movement. If it flinches but looks like not enough pressure is being exhorted to twist and move them it's the accumulator. With a ruptured balloon inside the accumulator, it does not have enough pressure to push the oil down so it can move the actuator

    3. Replaced the accumulator and reprogrammed the system
    Wallllllla works like magic
     
    Anthony 360 F1 likes this.

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