Polishing air-intake/filter covers... | FerrariChat

Polishing air-intake/filter covers...

Discussion in '360/430' started by brokenarrow, Dec 23, 2008.

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  1. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

    Sep 25, 2006
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    You know, I looked under the hood and felt the intakes would look much better polished, and so would the equalizer tank. So I took off one of the intake filter covers which already had a couple of dings, scratches and just looked aged. I tried to polish the paint with some compound and it had no affect at all.

    I have since coated one of them with paint stripper, but the paint is not coming off very easily. They must have baked it on or powder coated it as it's very stubborn. I'll come back shortly and report my progress. Anything metal can be stripped, sanded and polished. I'll be back later....
     
  2. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    #2 brokenarrow, Dec 24, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Okay, well like anything, it took longer than I thought.

    On the first one, I used some paint stripper that had been in my shed for around four years and it did okay, but left me a lot of sanding. I had my wife stop and get me some paintstripper (the paint on jelly type) when she was running errands. The old paint fell off like an oversized sweatshirt--it was awesome. I hardly had to do anything. Lesson learned; use the new stuff.

    I started with 400, 600 then 1200 sandpaper and went to my buffer, you'll see it pictured here. I bought it a few years ago and once used it to polish my shoes--bad idea. It stripped the shiny finish right off my Allen Edmunds. Well, it worked like a champ on these covers. I then moved to hand polishing for about 20 minutes for each cover with excellent results. I used Oxide sandpaper that should be used under wet conditions so I just sanded them in the sink. Man did they turn out fantastic. I am really, really happy with the results. I may clearcoat them tomorrow or the next day.

    I was planning to do the equalization tank but now like the contrast of the black and polished aluminum. Hmmm? Any thoughts; should I finish it and do it? Let me know...

    Oh, you can easily polish these to chrome if you like as the aluminum is very soft and can polish out quickly. I just like the harder colder finish of that old polished look over the chrome.

    If any of you have the manual for the breakdown of the equalization tank, I'd love to see it. Feel free to post here for all to see. My 360 repair manual disc when on the fritz a few months ago and I'm bummed without it.

    Also, it's really cool peeking in the rearview mirror and seeing the polished covers. I love it.

    Have a looksy...
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  3. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    #3 brokenarrow, Dec 24, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2008
    I wanted to stress how caustic the paint-stripper is; it will burn a hole in your skin so fast you may not make it to the faucet. A couple of times it splattered onto my pants or shirt, and within 10 seconds it felt like a match was being held to my skin. I ran inside and packed it with baking soda and washed it off with soap. DO NOT MESS AROUND with this stuff. Wear gloves, eye protection and be extremely cautious with it. Throw the gloves away every time you take them off. All it takes is one drop and you're in hell. I know the container has a warning, I just want you to know this stuff is LAVA--take no chances.

    I'm sure it added a few horsepower too now that I've removed that heavy paint.
     
  4. RobD

    RobD Formula 3

    Nov 10, 2003
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    Looks good, nice job!
     
  5. luv2detail

    luv2detail Formula 3
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    Looks great Bill. Is the paint stripper an acid?
     
  6. MalibuGuy

    MalibuGuy F1 Veteran

    Sep 18, 2007
    5,893
    Nice work. I think the equalization tank should be done too. Maybe you can even get the black cap to match with some kind of chrome paint. If you don't want to dismantle the tank you could just use a brush and paint the paint remover on. Cover everything else with masking tape and plastic wrap. You don't have to worry about the underneath surface of the tank being perfect because you won't really be able to see it well anyway. And take pics if you decide to do this!
     
  7. tabiggs

    tabiggs Karting

    Apr 28, 2008
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    Houston Texas
    That looks really good, how long did it take you from start to finish
     
  8. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

    Sep 25, 2006
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    Merry Christmas guys.

    I used Jasco Premium Paint Remover purchased from Lowes. It comes in a turpentine looking metal can. I would like to also suggest when using this that you keep a box of baking soda and water right next to you. While applying it to the cover, the bristles of the brush kicked up pin-head sized droppletes onto my shirt and pant leg. By the time I was aware of it the damage was already done to my skin. I have some burn marks the size of a pencil eraser on my arm and leg. As soon as I felt it, I ran to the kitchen and cleaned it. Well, this morning it was obvious I did not move fast enough. I hate to be a pest on this, but this stuff is down right dangerous, but boy does it work like magic. I plan to buy some elbow sized chemical gloves and use only with a full face mask in the future. I'd also suggest a foam brush rather than a bristle due to the spitting a brush does.

    As far as how long it took; the first one took much longer as I used the old paint remover and it was not effective so I had to do a lot of sanding. On the second one, it took 1/4 the time due to the fact the Jasco stuff basically stripped the paint for me. All I did was hit the small detail pieces which took maybe fifteen minutes. So I'd tell you the whole process including polishing was about four hours.

    I am extremely satisfied with the results and am confident that you would like it too. In person, it's significantly better looking than the pictures. I tried my best to get good shots but it just doesn't come across on film (chip) as well as it does in person. I'll try my Nikon later today. This is a really nice addition and am surprised Ferrari didn't do it themselves.

    Thanks for the input on the equalize tank. I will go ahead and do it but would not even consider doing it in the car. I swear if that stuff got on anything, it would be toast---too risky for captain retard. I'll pull it out.

    Stay tuned for more action...
     
  9. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    #9 brokenarrow, Dec 25, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. RobD

    RobD Formula 3

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    #10 RobD, Dec 25, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2008
    If it were me, I'm not so sure I'd polish the tank too. It may end up being a bit too much. As it stands, it's a nice touch and highlights the intake system.

    I'd also consider some nice stainless bolts for the intakes.
     
  11. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    I would also leave the equalization tank in black. I think the contrast looks nice.


    As a purely uneducated moron (me!) I wonder if the heavy goop on the stock air boxes was intended as a bit of heat insulation -- which has now been stripped away, potentially raising incoming air temps. Comments?

    (Or, have I been sipping too much egg nog this afternoon)
     
  12. tabiggs

    tabiggs Karting

    Apr 28, 2008
    57
    Houston Texas
    Jack - Good point - But are the air intakes are just there to filter and suck the air into the engine - So I am not sure how anything to do with heat or insulation would be needed in this type of application, Does anyone know after driving the 430 hard, are the air intake boxes warm or do are they hot from being in the engine bay?
     
  13. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    Too late. I'm already on it and only need to sand and polish.

    As for heat, it's just paint no form of insulation I can assure you. Needless to say, even a small increase in temperature would have no affect on the fuel mixture or detonation. If anything the car will move faster due to the reduction in weight and added aerodynamics. I plan to strip the car next.

    More pics to come...
     
  14. carcommander

    carcommander Formula 3

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    I might not strip the car if I were you. People might think it's a Delorean. (SP). :)
     
  15. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    Good point.

    BTW, does anyone know how to put those damn wormless clamps back on? Man, I don't have a clue. I'll have to replace them with some worms if I can't figure it out. Any more tweaking and I may bust them. Do they need a special tool to put on?
     
  16. ferrariKP

    ferrariKP F1 Rookie

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    .....very nice!

    Any extra heat??
     
  17. masar

    masar Formula 3

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    Bill, thanks for perfect description. Result is great, it looks very nice much better than before.
     
  18. mrpcar

    mrpcar Formula 3

    May 27, 2007
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    What material is the air box made from? I thought it was from aluminum. If it is aluminum the minute you strip the paint it will start to oxidize. So you will need to spray a clear coat to protect the metal from the air.
     
  19. Todd Helme

    Todd Helme Formula Junior

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    #19 Todd Helme, Dec 26, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    While it looks good you could get it much shiner if you so desired...

    Like paint the shine will only be as nice as the final result. Sanding to about 8000 grit and using dedicated metal abrasive (cernium oxide) polishes you can actually bring the finish to a chrome like state (if that is your goal). I personally like the finish you have achieve, but here is a muffler that I polished for fun (from a 360 modena)
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  20. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    #20 brokenarrow, Dec 26, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2008
    Hi Petr. Thanks for the kind comments.

    Robin, you know I thought about it and decided against it as I don't mind polishing--it gives me something to do. I can always clear-coat it, and I already have some high-temp clear coat I've used with real success on my 997S. When I get tired of polishing, I'll coat.

    Hi Todd, that is some really nice work you have there. I am not familiar with Cernium Oxide, but you can bet I will be soon. And 8000 sandpaper? What is that, like a paper towel--lol. I did choose to leave the metal more of a polished look, just short of the chrome look. I am going to get some of that Cernium for my Tubi though. Where do you get it? I also have that Makita.
     
  21. duskybird

    duskybird F1 World Champ
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    Looks good.
    The clamps are "single" use clamps. You can bend and twist them to get them back on.
    Coat it with this. http://www.zoopseal.com/zoopseal.asp works much better than clear paint.
    When I was looking for my car I came across a Modena that had EVERYTHING polished in and on the engine. What wasn't polished was chrome plated including the sail panels. I wouldn't go that far if I was you. When it was sunny you couldn't see out the back window!
     
  22. Todd Helme

    Todd Helme Formula Junior

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    I personally think that the level (semi-gloss if you will) is PERFECT for the engine compartment. Increasing the gloss any further would have cheapened the effect IMHO.

    With 8000 grit (and even finer) you don't want to jump up to that level right away, or as you noted, it will be like wiping the metal with a paper cloth. However stepping up to 8000 grit (and even 12000 grit) will make it much easier to polish a deep shine into the metal devoid of scratching or swirling...

    I believe your tubi is the stainless steel (the same as the stock muffler that I polished in the pictures).

    I would start like this....

    Use an abrasive grit (800 or so) to remove any deeper scratches. Sand in one plane (lets say left and right) until all the deep scratches are removed. At this point the finish will be dulled and scratched.

    Now use a incrementaly finer grit (1200 or so) and wet sand in the opposite plane (cross hatching- up and down insteadn of left and right). Wipe the area dry often and check your progress. The goal is to replace all the left and right heavier (800grit) scratches with the finer 1200grit scratches. If you still see some running left to right, then keep working up and down until the all scratches the same direction.

    Now use an even finer grit (2000). Again go left and right removing all of the previous scratching. For 2000 to 3000 grit sandpaper I really like Meguiars' Unigrit series. The abrasives are more even and it leaves a nicer finish behind that is easier to polish (or sand finer).

    Then 2500 grit in an opposite direction.

    Then 3000 grit in an opposite direction. By 3000 grit the surface should have a semi gloss shine and ultra fine scratching (only visible in direct light such as the sun). You can continue to refine the surface using finer sandpaper (working to 4200-6000-8000-12000 will leave the finish looking ultra polished). Usually I from 3000 to 4000 to 6000 then polish. You can go finer if you like.

    Polishing-

    First you have to compound the metal and level out all scratching from the sanding. Use a 4 ply twisted wool pad, a lot of rpm, and a good amount of pressure (about 2500 rpm).

    The finish will be glossy but have compounding scratches. Use a finer grit polish in combination with a foam pad to remove any hazing and impart a deep, super reflective surface on the metal.

    For sand paper from 800-2000 grit I use the 3M stuff found at most autostores.
    For sand paper from 2000-3000 grit I use Meguiars unigrit (this is also ideal paper for automotive paint finishes) from autodetailingsolutions.com
    For sand paper higher then 3000 grit I use micro surface paper from http://www.micro-surface.com/
    For metal polishes as pads (that will work for your Makati 9227c) check out BlackFire's metal polishing stuff here... http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/blmeposy.html
     
  23. E60 M5

    E60 M5 Moderator
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    ^ Todd,

    Thanks for the post!! Great info!


    Robert
     
  24. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    #24 brokenarrow, Dec 26, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2008
    I agree--great stuff Todd. Finding high number sandpaper is nearly impossible these days. Really only paint stores carry that stuff. I've ordered that metal polishing material as I've heard about it before.

    I have finished and installed the expansion tank back into the car. I had to go buy some worm clamps at the hardware store as I hate those cheesy clamps that are on there. I could not get them to work again anyway. I'll post pics as soon as my battery charges for the camera.

    Bill,

    Thanks for the ZOOP. I'll order it and keep it in inventory for my "I'm tired of polishing" phase.

    Chees~
     
  25. brokenarrow

    brokenarrow F1 Rookie

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    Bump for my man Derek on the other side of the pond.
     

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