resetting drive cycle on 360

Ferrari's have wonky drivecycle issues. In my case what worked was to drive the car like a daily driver for 3 weeks. If any cel comes up you need to resolve it and then the drive cycle will rest to zero and you have to start over again if you have to erase codes. In the future the best thing to do is not disconnect the battery 1 month before you go to smog and just use the car. There is a written ferrari proceedure but it is a pain and who knows if it really works. It was posted on fchat as a ferrari tsb looking pdf file do a search for it I don't have it.

 

I put this together to add some info to the F-Car TSB.... it should fill in the blanks,
Rgds,
vincenzo
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KS- Here is the official word. Read 2500 rpm instead of 4500 rpm in the one sentence. Never heard of the 100 miles and no idea why that would be a magic number.

Taz
Terry Phillips
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Hopefully the Ferrari procedure works. On most cars, a 100 mile drive is needed to show "ready" codes for a number of the OBDII values after a power disconnect or ECU reflash. If the Ferrari drivecycle doesn't work, drive 50 miles away, turn around and come back, and assuming you don't get any CELs in the process, go directly to the smog station and have them run the test when everything is still hot. This works on most OBDII cars.

 

For what it is worth, I filled my gas tank up and drove it during a week for 1 or 2 hrs trips. At the end of the week, everything was all set and ready to be inspected.

 

i have not done it personally. when i bought my car, the drive cycles were preventing it from geting smogged. i sent the enclosure to the folks who were selling the car, and they used it with success.....

it is more or less straight from FNA. can't hurt to try.

don't know for sure, but tazandjan may be right about the FNA 4500 typo.... if so, my text needs a similar change.

rgds,
vincenzo

 

Also check with your smog guy before you chase ghosts. Some states will allow 1-2 non-ready tests out of the 5-7 or so that some obd2 cars have. However, if I was buying a car even if it passed smog I'd want to see all the tests ready as a condition of purchase. That can be checked with a 39 buck scanner you can plug in yourself to the obd port.

 

There is still much I don't understand about OBD2 or maybe partly understand. It seems that you can show no cel and not get a drive cycle test to be ready for say 02 or HS02
Some mechanics say there is "no" fault if you don't have a cel and that there is nothing to fix you are screwed it is a ferrari drivecycle thing live with it. I have personally not got a cel yet show a fault on my handheld cheapo scanner. My research on obd2 says that you can have CEL's on dash, faults readable on the scanner with no light, pending code faults that will give you a cel if they keep happening (like a misfire) and then there are drivecycle faults that only show up as failure to set readiness test.

There is this deeper layer of obd2 called mode6 aka "$6". Obd2 has codes that are generic over all makes of car mandated by the feds like all p0xxx codes are the same for every car. Then there are manufacturer propriatray codes like p1xxx that are manufactuer specifc codes your cheap scanner will read and that you have to have a code book to decipher, then there is $6 codes which is a hexadecimal code that goes deeper and finger specific parts in a system. Ford and GM etc use these extra special codes and I can only assume ferrari does too. Many higher level and low pro level scanners will read the $6 but you need a chart key to find out what the hex code is saying. Ford and GM data is online. I am sure ferrari data is top secret or perhaps the sd2/3 will read $6 and spit out the error in english/italian and not hexcode. For $25k I would expect and sd to do that.

So the this is my long winded way of saying maybe some pro who uses an SD2/3 can tell us if ferrari does use these deeper obd2 codes that can tune into exactly why a drive cycle test refuses to set. If so then you need to see an sd2/3 guy not guess.

It is my belief that if you just drive the cars like daily drivers that most "ready tests" will come unless there are cel faults. But one or two tests you can't get to set I suspect are real issues not drivecycle problems known to the feds like is posted online for many cars nissans in particular.

I hope a person smarter than me can fill in the blanks or set me straight.

 

Vincenzo has basically taken the official Ferrari bulletin and translated into a better description. Under step 2, Ferrari left out the fact that you need to accelerate to 4500 in 4th gear and then coast down to 2000 with no brake assist. If you perform the procedure in the bulletin, you will usually be able to set all of the Readiness monitors except for one every time - IF there are no problems in the Engine Management System. The Secondary Air and EVAP monitors are the toughest to set - Secondary Air usually requires the car to sit overnight because the Engine coolant temp must be at an exact number. EVAP is also tough because fuel level is a factor, it needs to be between 1/4 to 3/4 of a tank, but if it is too close to the edge of the range, sometimes it won't complete.

I personally have had cars that won't set a certain readiness monitor, and in the end it is because of a fault in the system. A lot of times it will take several drive cycles before the ECU will set a code, because the ECU must be monitoring the sensor or system at the time of the fault. For instance, an intermittent fault in an O2 sensor may not be caught as a code if the ECU is not "looking" at the sensor data at the time of the fault. Such fault can usually be caught in data stream recording, as well as looking at Open/Closed Loop status during a test drive while driving under certain conditions. I have caught many faulty O2 sensors this way before codes were set.

I know there is a lot more to it than I have said, I just wanted to try to explain it in a more simple manner. Hope this helps

 

I have had exactly these experiences.

 

Just relating my experience trying to get my 1999 360 to pass the readiness tests...

I had three test showing incomplete, both O2 tests and the Evap Monitor test. I had several very helpful people on here give me tips to try and get the Evap Monitor to set. I tried everything, the official drive test and other suggestions. He'll I even tried a track day.

Nothing helped.. As I was approaching the deadline to get the emissions done I finally gave up and took it to FoW. Even they could not get the drive cycle to work... They were able to track the problem to the ECUs and pulled them and sent them to FNA to be reprogrammed. As of yesterday they put it all back together and it passed emissions wih no problem. I am picking it up on Saturday...

I have no doubt that for most people the drive cycle works. Just keep in mind that in some cases, there may actually be something preventing it from working.

 

Exact same issue here. Both of those codes showed "not ready" Dealer couldn't fix it.. just told me to drive it.

I ended up going to the county emissions station and just have them do an old fashioned actual emissions test. Passed with flying colors...

 

Did anyone ever figure out whether one is meant to accelerate to 4500 and then slow down to 2000 RPM or just slow from 2500 to 2000 RPM?

 

BTW There are no "old fashioned emissions tests available in Arizona

 

What year is your 360 ?

That is the BIG question, if its a 99 good luck. I have not heard of too many issues with later cars that the drive cycle could not fix.

On my 99 I did the drive cycle so many times I had over a 1,000 miles on the car along with daily driving. And those monitors never came on. I left the car at the Ferrari dealer and they did the drive cycle many times (200+ miles) and it never came on.

$1,800 later they had them on and it passed smog. They had to have FNA update a bunch of stuff in the car. There is a ECU re-flash that they send the ECU to FNA for reflashing, that costs about $300 I think and they can check if that has been done or not(mine already had been updated), after that there are some updates that FNA can do while the car is hooked up to the SD2 remotely and that is what they had to do. First of course they changed all the plugs that only 6,000 miles on them, changed all the 02 sensors that were fine and some other stuff. To be honest I did not care, I wanted it to pass that badly.

 

So it is necessary to go through this procedure each time after turning the power off in the trunk?

 

yes...

Rgds,
Vincenzo

 

Only if you are heading for emissions testing, which requires readiness monitors set. If you just have the power off during non-use and want to go for a drive, then you just need to follow the simpler procedure. Turn key to last step before cranking, wait for "Ok", wait another 30 sec (or whatever it is), start the car and let it idle for a while (is it 10 min?), and drive off, going about your business...
Jes

 

What's a trunk? You mean the boot

I had this issue but the dealer had me:
Turn on car, idle 5 mins
Drive 35mph for 5 minutes
Drive 65 for 5 minutes
Stop and idle 5 minutes
Turn off car 5 mins

The I drove home another 30 mins and car inspected fine

This was after an initial fail!

 

Blimey, I'm glad we don't have these issues here. What a pain!
The govt talked about this but nothing really happened.
We are allowed to remove cats here as well.

 

I pulled my Spider from storage where the power had been turned off (sigh..) and failed the emission test this past weekend since Catalyst, Secondary Air and O2 sensor all show "Incomplete".

Found this set of detailed instructions online... Will let you know how it works.

The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive
cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory,
or after the battery has been disconnected.
Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can
be detected. This is vital for the purposes of our PPI.

The OBDII drive cycle MUST begin with a cold start:
- coolant temperature below 122 degrees F
- coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another

NOTE:
The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor
diagnostic may not run.

F-Car Step 1:
Start the cold engine directly from the key ‘off’ position.
With no driver input, let the engine idle with the ECU in full control of the
idle speed for four (4) minutes.
~ OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

F-Car Step 2a
Accelerate with moderate throttle and shifting into 3rd or 4th gear &
2,000- 2,500 RPM
~ OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2b
Hold this steady state engine speed in the same gear at 2,000-2,500 RPM
for 3.5 miles.
~ OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2c
Increase the engine speed at a modest rate to 4,500 RPM and hold for 10
seconds or a bit more to ensure a steady state condition.
Decelerate to 2,000 RPM without braking or depressing the clutch.
~ OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

F-Car Step 3a:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without double clutch blipping of the throttle. Declutch to neutral
when the slowing engine speed calls for it.
Let the engine idle with the engine in neutral and with the clutch out at the
side of the road. Allow the ECU to fully control idle speed with no driver
input.

For a full 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle in neutral with no driver input.
During this 5 minutes of idling, do not change the engine loading by switching
on any accessories (like the A/C).

F-Car Step 3b:
Switch the engine and key fully off after the 5 minute idle.
Keep the key in the off position for 15 to 20 seconds.

F-Car Step 4:
Restart the car and drive it at a moderate acceleration back up to 3rd or
4th in the 2,500 to 3,500 RPM range (i.e.: “normal driving&#8221.
~ OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
Continue to drive for at least 10 minutes with the car under this steady
state condition (2,500 to 3,500 RPM).
~ OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim,
oxygen sensors and purge functions.

F-Car Step 5:
Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and
certainly without any double clutch blipping of the throttle. As appropriate,
keep the engine in gear as you de-accelerate.
~ OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
Check readiness codes w/ OBDII scanner