Question about 360 F1 clutch?

Paddle shifting and minimize driving in reverse especially uphill.

 

The major factor in F1 clutch life by far is driver technique. Therefore, the first thing you should do is read your owners manual. Virtually all situations and recommended techniques are covered there. You will find the advice given in the owners manual to be *way* more useful than the advice you get from all the internet weenies in the world combined (including mine).

A few items bear emphasis in addition to owners manual recommendations. You will notice that reverse continuously slips (i.e., never fully engages) the clutch by design. That means you want to minimize reversing, especially uphill. It also helps to match your reverse technique to software operation, meaning a "stab and coast" rhythm whenever possible. There is also a "low traction" button on the center console next to the reverse lever and "auto mode" button. When engaged this button causes the F1 system to use the same software as reverse (i.e., continuously slipping the clutch). There is almost no situation which really requires this mode so avoid it completely.

Some argue the "auto mode" button should also be avoided because of excessive clutch wear, but that is pure internet myth. The only difference between using the paddles and using auto mode is the decision of when to shift. The driver decides when to shift using the paddles whereas a computer decides when to shift when using auto mode. The same software does the actual shifting in either case so there is absolutely no difference to clutch life. Most drivers seldom use auto mode although it can be useful for inexperienced drivers (e.g., the SO) or for distracted driving (e.g., eating or talking on the cell -- probably a bad idea anyway).

Absent a lot of reversing, virtually all clutch wear occurs at starting from stopped so this technique is the most important of all. When stopped and in gear, keep your right foot firmly on the brake until ready to move off. When ready, move foot directly from brake to gas and press down smoothly and evenly. If the clutch is properly installed and adjusted, you will instantly feel it begin to engage and the car begin to move forward. As soon as this happens, hesitate or slow the downward motion of the peddle just slightly to encourage full clutch engagement. At full clutch bite, resume even steady downward movement of the peddle. You should get full clutch bite in about one car length, two at very most. If you're not getting full clutch engagement consistently in a single car length, you're definitely slipping the clutch more than needed and wearing it out prematurely.

If you get stuck in stop & go traffic, the above technique is especially important. It means you do *not* want to creep along slipping the clutch. From stopped, allow several car lengths to open ahead of you. Then move forward as described above to full clutch engagement and keep moving that way as long as safely possible. When necessary, move foot directly to the brake and come to a full stop. With proper technique, stop & go traffic with your F1 does not need to result in excessive clutch wear and it's a whole heck-of-a-lot easier than a 3 peddle car.

Again, read your owners manual several times carefully and heed the advice of the people who built the car. The 360 F1 system works amazingly well and will provide long and trouble free operation if used correctly. It's a great car -- lucky you my friend!

 

My God there is someone else out there that understands that.


You better be careful where you say it though because someones brother in laws cousins best friend is a car salesman and says auto mode kills clutches.

 

All of this plus I would say that at launch don't hit the gas too hard. Lots say give it gas to force the engage but what really happens is the RPM jumps up forcing the clutch to slip more. Ease on the gas gently and you will get a smooth and quick engage.

Been driving my car every day, even in traffic, so I have gotten a lot of practice.