I have read through other threads with this, but it doesn't seem that anyone else describes the same issue. Took the car out the other day and about 30 seconds into the drive three loud beeps and transmission light comes on. Car does not shift into neutral, and shifts perfectly fine. If I stop turn the car off then back on and start driving the light does not come on again until about 30 seconds into the drive. I'm going to take the car to Vegas in the next few days when I have time. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas in the mean time? A few people have mentioned a switch in the rear hatch lock I looked at that last night, and from what I could see everything looks good there. But maybe I'm missing something? I opened the F1 Fluid and that was full. I did order a new F1 Relay from Ricambi since it was only $40 Any feedback is great Thanks!
Not that it could have anything to do with it, but right before this started I swapped out the rear brake and reverse lights with LED bulbs. I guess I could put the old bulbs back in and see if for any crazy reason that is what is causing this.
That could absolutely have something to do with it. If computers aren't getting a reading from the LED lights saying they are functioning properly, it'll kick an error with the F1 tcu and, I'll bet, you'll get a CEL. When my brake switch was not functioning properly, the same thing happened to me. Funny how something with the brakes will show up as an F1 light.
To elaborate in a thread so people can see it if they have issues and do a search..... I was getting a loud beep and the transmission light would come on. Car shifts fine, no problems, fluid is good and at good level, no loss in power. Then after about two more driving occasions, the CEL would come up. I would get two codes with my OBD II reader (cant remember what they are right now) but they didn't seem related to the engine at all. I'd clear them and they'd go away but come right back on the next drive about 2-3 minutes into it. Rich and his guys at Penske helped me out again, they said it sounded like a brake pedal switch. Really, a brake pedal switch causing a CEL and F1 light? Well, they were spot on. All is well again.
Yeah I guess that would make sense because the LED's would be pulling less volts the car may think the lights are not coming on.
Exactly, just had LED tail lights installed in my Golf and had to have the shop re-program the computer for them so eliminate the "light out" light.
The brake pedal switch will only cause this while engaging gear from stationary. It would also prevent your car from going into gear If it was at fault UNLESS it requires adjustment. Wobble the brake pedal side to side while someone watches your lights, if they flicker on and off, bingo that's the cause. I highly suspect it is not.. The 360's rear lights are not on any kind of databus like modern cars, so no, there is nothing to program relating to the lights. It uses a simple on/off switch, some bulbs, wire and a fuse...
When I converted my 360 to LEDs, I had the same problem. My fix was to install a load resistor (6 ohms, 50W) in parallel to the brake light circuit. I broke out the wiring harness on the rear passenger side with a barrier strip along with a resistor using an angle bracket. I then mount the bracket to the rear light assembly using an existing stud on top of the housing. I got a new set of wire connectors because I did not want to cut into the original wiring harness. They're Amphenol Superseal 1.5 connectors. I also corrected the hyper-flashing by replacing the shunt in the flasher relay with a 6 ohms 50W resistor. Because the resistor did not fit into the relay, I extended two leads in place of the shunt and mounted the resistor externally. Good luck! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I installed LED brake and tail lights as well as front lights and no issues whatsoever. IIRC brake pedal switch has two function -- activate the brake lights and tell the TCU that it's okay to put the car in gear. If wobbling the brake pedal causes the brake lights to come on then that should have absolutely nothing to do with the transmission otherwise you would have a beep and F1 light come on every time you hit the brakes. Maybe the rear hatch switch. Stops you putting the car in gear if open but not sure what would happen if it opened when driving. As you didn't get a warning icon to say it was open I doubt that it is to blame. Mello If you installed the resistor in the flasher unit then there should be no need to add resistors to the LEDs. I have Stefs kit with the new relay and I'm sure that his does the same thing. Alan
The brake lights and turn signal lights are in two different circuits. I'm not familiar with Stefs kit, but based on the price, it is probably customized wiring and I don't expect anything less.
Same with my car. I got a few codes and a transmission light, but car shifted perfectly every time. $35 and 1 brake light switch later and everything is perfect again! Not true at all!! I know if you use common sense, your theory is 100% correct, however I was a victim (and others here) of these Ferrari-isms. That's the term I use for things that Ferraris do for no reason, and there are no logical explanation for them. These cars are definitely finicky. I'm not saying that the brake light switch is the OP's problem, but it very well may be related to the brake electrical circuit.
Thanks for all the great posts! I put the regular bulbs back in and problem solved. Mello seems to have the right solution I just don't have the skills for that I fear I will mess something up.
Breck- FYI, your 04 has a 50 amp F1 pump relay and those have not caused much in the way of problems. That same relay is used in the engine compartment of the 575M, so pretty reliable.
It's a virtue to know one's own limitation. Leave it to an expert since a mistake will cost you a new ECU.
I know they are but the OP was having issues with his brake light switch and you were talking about turn signals -- something entirely different. Stefs kit included LEDs for the front and rear and a new flasher relay -- no wiring involved. Alan I don't think swapping your brake and tail light bulbs for LEDs had anything to do with the brake light switch/F1 issue. Ferrari doesn't monitor to see if a bulb is blown like some modern cars do so the current draw was not the culprit. Switching them back to solve the problem was probably pure coincidence. I have swapped mine out and had no ill effects. Now what Mello was referring to was changing out the turn signal bulbs for LEDs which is completely different. If you want to change yours I would highly recommend the kit from Stef which consists of LEDs for front and rear and a new flasher. You cannot go wrong in fitting this as it's child's play and is much better than cutting into your wiring harness to install resistors to fool the flasher relay so it doesn't hyper flash. Alan
The OP didn't mention anything about him having problem with his brake light switch. You probably got confused with RustyBits response. I said "My fix was to install a load resistor (6 ohms, 50W) in parallel to the brake light circuit." to fix the transmission light and beeping. I mentioned the hyper-flashing as an afterthought, wanting to share my solution to others that are having the same problem. It looks like the kit that you purchased from Stef doesn't include the LEDs for the stop lights... just the turn signals and that explains why it include a new flasher relay with a recalibrated shunt for the Cree look-alike LEDs total current draw.
I certainly don't think it was a coincidence. I turned off the battery while LED'S were still in. Drove the car and sure enough beeps and transmission light on. Swapped out with original bulbs and drove car 20 miles with no beeps or lights. Brake light swirch is good. Zero other issues scanned the car as well and nothing. Thrilled to say the least it wasn't something more serious! I'll check out the kit from Steph. Thanks again.
