Had hoped the car would need nothing done until the warmer weather arrived (yes, I know that sounds silly being in Hong Kong, but this was the coldest winter in 60 yrs) But as i reported back in late December I ended up with most of my engine coolant being pumped out my starboard side exhaust. No idea as to why other than guessing a head gasket or a cracked liner. So no choice now, but to take the engine out. Have not found any complete "how to" so if anyone has any advice on things to avoid or the best order to take things out... please post. Anyway, I cleaned up the man-cave and got started. Q. I was sort of hoping to leave all the inlet malarkey on the engine as it comes out - is that possible ? Image Unavailable, Please Login
You can leave most of the stuff that has been removed on as a matter of fact. Unless you really want to disassemble the entire car.
LOL - I could think of other things to do rather than this. So far only the bumper, grill, air boxes and exhausts off. So what's next; 1. the big A frame and cross brace (scaffolding 'thingy whats it') 2. the F1 pump assembly - detach from inside rear fender 3. hoses to rads 4. fuel pipes 5. drive shafts 6. gearbox / engine mounts 7. various wires to sensors anything else ? is there an easier way (other than have someone else do it )
Started with.... 1. removing the rear grill 2. removed rear inner stone guards (access to bumper bolts) 3. removed bumper mark next to each stud the number of washers 4. Removed the air box. 5. removed tail pipes 6. removed muffler and cats. ********** 7. A frame supported gearbox with jack. removed the main bolt holding gearbox to A frame. removed the 16 main bolts. 8. the little centre cross section that blocks access to the oil filter 2 bolts on top and 4 underneath 9. removed the metal vacuum pip that runs accoss the main part of the A frame to the exhaust valve solenoids. 10. Rubber hammer to hit the A frame in the direction of the rear, to get it free. 10. removed the intake vacuum lines (L+R) from intake manifold. they unplug from the master vacuum. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
All the stuff arrived from Ricambi. The best bit was shipping box - I'll be keeping that. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now faced with a few questions...... 1. Headers To me it looks tight to get the engine out with them on. What total buggers they are to access and the nuts are are not bugging. Access from underneath is difficult thanks to the engine mounts, on the 348 it's almost too easy to access. Really, will the engine come out with them on ? 2. Wiring It seems the best answer is to disconnect the engine loom from the various bits mounted in the fender spaces (L+R) and for it to come out with the engine. Is that right ? Yes, will label up the rats nest. 3. Driveshafts So unbolt in the inner flange ? The star headed bolts do they need a special tool or would a typical socket be ok.
Haha.... we use those shipping boxes a lot. They are crazy expensive, but they do a fantastic job protecting *your* items as they move around the globe. We love them too, but that poly strapping is a serious test of strength to get it nice & tight. Glad everything arrived safely.
p.s. There are little telltale signs of whether I packed the box or Aaron packed the box. That one, I did.... (the way the labels are oriented on the timing belts, and the inner cardboard box position are indicators of my own personal neurosis) Yikes.
Best Wishes to you on this mammoth project!!!! As said above, take many, many pix of everything and from different angles. Bag and tag hardware, etc. I would plug any open hoses (golf tee's work most of the time) and air intakes. Don't want any foreign stuff getting into the engine, etc... Good Luck!!!
Quite a diy project thanks for sharing! Forgive my next comment, but are you sure the engine must come out? You said you possibly only needed a head gasket right? Seems like a lot of work that may not be necessary. I'll defer to the pros. Have you seen the time lapse engine out on the 348, recently posted in the technical Q&A section? Worth a gander. Bet you wish your 360 was a 348 right about now! I'll take you out for a beer if you are ever in Massachusetts.
Congrats! It's always a first time for some of us! The first one will be scary, after the third time its just a Lego toy ;-) Image Unavailable, Please Login
@360+Volt. Gave a lot of though to being lazy and only doing the right head, but in truth the engine has probably been neglected by previous owners and I'd like to do the works on it and have a known starting point. The plan was to do that in the summer but events are what they are - plays havoc with the budget having to buy everything now. My 348 engine bay is pristine, and looking at the 360 engine bay in it's current state just annoys the fxxx out of me - another reason to have the engine out, so i can get in there and sort it. My goal for the 360 is to have a; 1. Daily driver. 2. Track day car. - we can drive from HK to Zhuhai for track days 3. N-GT theme / look with plenty CF everywhere It just means it will be off the road for a bit longer than I'd like - but oh well.
I hear you. Driving a 360 with a dirty engine bay is like having a dentist with missing teeth, or like a dermatologist with a rash ... Or a supermodel with a spare tire. It's just there on display for all to see, and there are no secrets. Keep it up and post the progress.
Hats off to you. I think the exhaust manifolds will need to come off to drop the engine out. Don't lose sight of the fact it's only nuts and bolts and anyone can do it...yeh right. I have my 430 in bits doing a fuel pump and headers and its kinda nice to work on. (with a 2-post lift)
I dream of a lift no matter it 2 or 4 post. Don't even have full time electricity - i rigged up some large 12v batteries and 2KW inverter to get power and lighting. Run the extension lead out to the power socket 30m away to charge the batteries as often as possible. Had an hour free this evening.... Got the drive shafts bolts out Needed the torque wrench to get the leverage. Easy to access from underneath. Handbrake wasn't good enough to stop it from turning, so the 1/4" extension bar fits just nice through the back of the HB caliper into the vent holes of the disc and stops it turning. Easy to access the bar whilst your under and can rotate by hand to do 2 bolts at a time. Next up..... get the headers off. Image Unavailable, Please Login
1. Headers can stay on. Tight but it will come out. Plus gives harness straps places to route for pulling motor out. And getting headers off outside of car is much easier! 2. Mark everything. Double check everything is disconnected while pulling. Easy to miss something still connected. If motor twists slightly while pulling out something is still connected. 3. You got this one. Regular socket. Good luck. Lots of fun doing it.
