Has anyone ever fixed a broken Header Stud? | FerrariChat

Has anyone ever fixed a broken Header Stud?

Discussion in '360/430' started by Eric C, Aug 31, 2016.

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  1. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    #1 Eric C, Aug 31, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I didn't notice until tonight, but I broke off 1 header stud while removing my stock headers last weekend. It's the stud farthest back from the engine, so I'll have a little bit of room to work.

    Has anyone ever extracted this themselves? What method did you use? I've extracted plenty of intake bolts etc before, but never a header stud. I know that I'll need to tape the ports closed for sure before attempting it.

    Any advice would be appreciated.
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  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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  3. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    That's what I've used before. I didn't know if I needed to use a different method since it's in such a critical spot.
     
  4. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    Honestly I would have it towed to a professional. EZ out, drilling, welding, etc, they all require a particular touch and skill. If you fail in your attempt it will become much harder for the next person.
     
  5. stevecomp

    stevecomp Formula Junior

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    I agree unless you know how to do it and have done it before call the stud guy who can come to you, they have some good kit including spark erosion.
     
  6. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    part of doing this job is experience not the method. For example why did the stud break?
    do the other studs unscrew easy or hard? If the neighboring studs all unscrew with finger pressure the broken one is more likely to be easy. If they are tough to remove think about adding some heat and penetrating oil cyclically to put the odds in your favor of an easier removal. Sometimes a good rap with a center punch really helps loosen. Sometimes just a cut slot in the stud and a impact driver will do the job. Make sure you got good access. Things like that improve your odds of success.
     
  7. RedTaxi

    RedTaxi F1 Rookie
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    All good advice.
    Another good one is MIG welding spot welds to the stud on top of each making a small mountain of welds to get vice grips on. Or tapping anti clockwise with a scriber or small center punch. Also there are some good extractors that when the right size small drill hole is made in the center of the stud a splined rod is hammered in which accepts a nut for extraction.
     
  8. chnco

    chnco Formula Junior

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    Tap and helicoil. It's done regularly, google it.
     
  9. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    Huh?
     
  10. chnco

    chnco Formula Junior

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    For this particular situation, I would use a helicoil.

    Use a tap to drill to same size and then place a helicoil insert. Feel free to check it out online, fairly regular routine for these situations.
     
  11. Turbotuner20v

    Turbotuner20v Formula Junior

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    So when a stud breaks off in perfectly good threads the answer is to extract the stud by using a tap? And then replace the good threads with a helicoil insert?

    Learn something new every day on the internet...
     
  12. phrogs

    phrogs F1 Veteran
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    Is this from vibration or is it from just snaping.

    Depends because id just drill anhole in that and use an extractor.
     
  13. stevecomp

    stevecomp Formula Junior

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    I don't think there is enough land on the stud to mig anything to it.
     
  14. stevecomp

    stevecomp Formula Junior

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    Never used a tap to drill out a broken stud? No need to helicoil if the stud is removed without damaging the thread in the head.

    You would probably need a right angle drill to fit in the engine bay.

    I have used left handed drill bits to help remove studs in the past as the rotation is the same as the thread to undue, well worth the investment. You should still get the pro to do it cheaper than removing the head if the drill wanders off you are in a world of pain.
     
  15. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

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    #15 mike32, Sep 1, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
    A few of the methods above are going to get you in deep trouble. Looking at what is left of the stud you cannot weld bits on top of it , so as to grip it. If you just try to drill it you will go off line and damage the head.
    The best method is to drill it using a drill jig to ensure it is straight, then get hold of a SNAP ON parallel stud extractor.
    I will have to do you a drawing as it is difficult to explain, bear with me
     
  16. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

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    Wrong
     
  17. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    #17 Eric C, Sep 1, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2016
    Thanks for comments everyone.

    I just went under the car to get another look at it. I took a small pointed scribe and hit the stud in a counter clock wise motion with a hammer (Not hard). It moved about a 1/4 of a turn. I'd say that's good news. At least I know that it's not seized!

    I ordered a Air Drill, Extractor Set and Cobalt Right Hand Drill Set, Irwin Left Hand Drill Bit Set. Should all be here tomorrow.

    Mike32 was nice enough to send me some instructions and recommended that I use a parallel extraction kit. This is the kit I'll be using.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WQYJIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  18. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

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    There has been some ideas to use helicoils but he still has the original threads in good condition, plus you have to drill oversize to install an insert. You would want the head on the bench to do that correctly but it is not needed here.
     
  19. LorenzoR

    LorenzoR F1 Rookie
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    totally agree. Id do my best to save the original threads. A helicoil is last resort in my opinion
     
  20. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    From what I've read on here. This happens quite frequently to Scuds from the manifold flanges warping? I wonder if that's what happened to mine?
     
  21. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

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    Eric, just seen this. One of mine snapped this week when my shop was fitting Capristo headers and cats. I've sent you a PM about an idea to ensure your drill goes in central - essentially fabricating a guide from a piece of steel using the old exhaust gasket as a template.

    Maybe Mike sent a similar thing or a better approach.
     
  22. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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  23. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    That is commonly referred to as a drill jig. The drill bushings are off the shelf items sold by Carr Lane and McMaster Carr has them too. This would be easy to make but to design it would require a cylinder head drawing or a cylinder head to measure.

    Sorry Eric - I don't have a 430 so I have nothing to measure.
     
  24. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

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    I use the old exhaust gasket as a template. It takes a bit of time to get right but it's easy enough to do at home.
     
  25. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    I've scheduled for someone to come over tomorrow to take care of this for me. Wish me luck!
     

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