Hi all, Quick question to see if anyone has come across this before - i am getting P0300/P0301/P0302/P0303/P0304 from cold when i start the car in the mornings. Sometimes but not always i get a flashing CEL. The car runs fine though and if i reset the codes there and then with my reader and use the car for the rest of the day they do not reappear (until the next morning). It looks like it is only affecting one bank, the same bank as the SDECU error i was getting - i replaced the thermocouple and SDECU on that bank and it fixed that [SDECU] problem - i was hoping it would fix the misfire error codes too but it didn't. I did take it to the garage that maintains my car - they spent a lot of time on it, replacing this and that but no luck. They are convinced it is because of my aftermarket exhaust and worn CAT's (car has done 50k miles). Anyone come across similar? I can live with it but its annoying seeing that CEL there and of course i dont want to keep running it in case there is something wrong and i shouldn't be.
This might help: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/520948-consistent-c-stradale-misfire-running-out-ideas.html
Fuel trim. Do they need to be while driving or idling. I logged for a few seconds when I parked up tonight after coming home. Only seem to get reading on one bank - anyone had better luck using torque pro or maybe another app is better? Don't know if anything can be gleaned from attached - I'm quite ignorant when it comes to this type of issues. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The blip was when I reved it for a split second. I can log it over a journey but think I would need to monitor both banks for any data to be worthwhile?
Switch the Mafs and see if the problem switches sides. If it does, you found your problem. Easy and does not cost you a thing except a few minutes of your time.
I have tried the MAF's and in any case they are both relatively new - less than 2k on them. Swapping with the old MAF's which I kept causes same issue. I'm thinking of swapping the ECU's from left to right to see if that resolved but they are a pain to get to. Any other parts that are an easy swap?
Hi all, thought i would update this thread to see if anyone can point me in the right direction. Still having issues. Have replaced both crankshaft sensors (pn: 182194) - same problem. I am now getting a rough idle and a FLASHING CEL every now and then. While i have no idea what to look for when monitoring fuel trim i have noticed that the o2 sensor voltage on sensor 1 is steady at 0.09v but on sensor 2 it is 0.76v and jumps about up and down. Is this normal - should both be constant? I should really take it back to the shop but i have lost all confidence in them to resolve without charging me a fortune and Ferrari specialists are not that common around here...
Sounds exactly like the problem I had, and it was the MAFs. You also need to look at your oil level, as too much oil will cause excess oil to leak into your MAFS (look at the way the plumbing is where you add oil). The oil will mess up the MAF element and cause the problems you are experiencing. BTW MAF cleaning spray is snake oil - it does not work.
i think i find my problem, inspired by my battery thread. now, replace your battery with a BIGGER one, with at least 800 cca ( is that the word?) problem solved for me!
To the more experienced is this a good thing to do? I read somewhere that one acts like a Master and the other stays Virgin (funny that a master would allow a virgin to stay virgin ...oops! sorry my mind just drifted) That once you swap they're now both stuck with the same car for good (unless you use the SD2, of course). Is this correct?
Not a good thing to swap unless you have no other options. Correct and the SD2 can't change, alter, modify that.
Hi, no. I came here to post an update and saw your post above. This issue has been an absolute pain - i have taken the car to an independent / not specialist but highly recommended mechanic who has done but not limited to the following: Check fuel flow - both pumps identical swap all components from left to right - coils/engine ecus/camshaft sensors/new plugs (the broken bank had slightly carbonated tips on the spark plugs) smoke test loads of other tests which went way above my head And the faults are staying constant on one bank - he is convinced that the 'broken' bank is not contributing as much as the working bank - what he means by this i am not sure - i am going to go see him this week so he can show me in person but has anyone ever come across this? It is looking like a rebuild now or at least opening the engine up - really disappointing as I had the head gaskets done not to long ago and thought that would at least get me through a few years - maybe its something to do with that? Can anyone offer any advice before i have to down the expensive route of having the engine taken apart? That's 2 people now looked at it extensively one a Ferrari specialist and neither seems to be able to get to the bottom of it!! And lastly - can anyone recommend anyone in the UK who would be able to rebuild this if that is eventually what is required?
Drivability issues are either ignition, fuel or mechanical related. It sounds like ignition and fuel have been ruled out. I would find somebody who knows how to use a Pressure Transducer with a Scope to look at valve opening and closing as I suspect you have a valve timing issue. Also you stated that you replaced a head gasket. Why was a head gasket replaced and did they solve the issue that caused head gasket replacement? Don't just open an engine without knowing the cause. By the way, from your snap-shot fuel trims look good. Fuel trims are required to be displayed on generic OBD-II so any generic OBD-II Scan Tool will display them. Short term is instantaneous fuel trim, as it's only working during closed loop operation (O2 sensor is in the loop, ECM is looking at O2 readings), and long term fuel trim which is learned(stored) fuel trim and used all the time. Both should be +/- 5% all the time. One last spewing, "generally" a misfire that happens when cold and goes away as the engine warms up is a mechanical problem.
I am now beginning to buy the "cold misfire --mechanical problem" statement. So do you recommend a cold compression test? Usually is it top end related or bottom end?
You have spent a good bit of time and money on it, have your shop do a compression and leak down test. If its bad news you will know in a few hours. Generally if find low compression it will be from the valves and seats. The pistons/rings are fairly stout, the valves and seats are not. They used a powdered metal seat insert - close to cast iron, and the valves take a real beating because high rpm combined with low heat transfer rate and high hardness of the seats leads to compromised sealing surfaces. Why did you have a head gasket replaced? When was that done in relation to your issue? Were the head & block surfaces inspected for warpage? Did the car overheat badly? Were any of the valves removed for inspection at that time? Any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil?
I will check but i'm 99% a leak down test has been done and it came back fine. Re head gasket - car broken down with a load of white smoke - was acceleration through the gears. Gaskets the culprit - head had to be skimmed i think. Car didnt overheat at all - as soon as there was the white smoke engine was switched off (within 2/3 seconds). Was doing 70/80mph at the time but straight road so just coasted to a halt with use of brakes with engine off.
Have you confirmed that the paper gaskets between the intake runners and the cylinder heads are still intact? These fail easily and cause misfires.
