Getting Ready To Install New Headers - Question

Remove the top side engine panels/hatch struts

Leave everything else alone (bumper/muffler/cats) - maybe remove liner, can't remember

The Agency Power headers slide in exactly in place of the stock manifolds

 

We left the engine bay panels in place as you can do all from underneath. We also just disconnected the fire ring flange and the manifold and swapped them out.

Do you have a new set of nuts and studs to fit in the head, not a good idea to use the old studs. A home made stud extractor will make life easy, pm me if you want a quick sketch of one.. Are you putting insulation on the new manifold ?

 

This is the first time I've heard that you can install the header while leaving the rest of the exhaust intact. It definitely is possible, having taken the exhaust apart right up to the header, but never thought of it that way before hmmm

 

Removing the AC compressor (3 screws) from the drivers side provides better access to removing the manifold. I used a lift also and the AC compressor re and re was a no brainer. Probably not an option when using ramps.
!Remember to remove the 4 sensors from the top of the engine bay before pulling the manis out.
Spray the manifold nuts a good 12-24 prior to cracking them loose. Good luck.

 

No need to remove the cats, muffler, or bumper. Simply remove the engine panels and the under-tray. I don't think I removed the wheel liners. Being that you have a lift, this project should not be that difficult for you.

Regarding the hand brake cable seizing, it is the plastic encasing the cable which melts into and seizes the handbrake cable. I installed blankets about 500 miles into my header install. I didn't have any issues prior to the blanket installation, but many on here did.

 

Nobody thinks to just put some DEi wrap on the handbrake cable itself, much easier

 

I have the capristo manifolds which came with the insulation blankets, i did see something about handbrake cable but i dont know. Bear in mind the OEM ferrari manifold is double skinned with insulation between the layers, the fuel tanks are very close and u r fitting uninsulated pipes which run cherry red next to them.

Only other thing i would say is that the area of the manifolds is sealed in by the bottom covers, only cooling of that space is a couple of holes in the bottom panal which must be bring cooling air in as the car goes forward, it relies on natural convection when the car is stationary. The insulation contains this heat.

Your choise really but they work very well and it drops the engine bay temp by a lot. Are you looking to fit the capristo expansion brackets, they take up 1/2 to 3/4 inch of expansion.

When you have the manifold fitted it may throw a code, i was advised to let the exhaust warm up a bit longer so unburnt fuel was not getting on a cool O2 sensor, very rare to get a code now.

 

I have a sketch ready for you, when you pm me. seems I cannot send as an attachment from this end that I can see

 

Be Careful. The hardest part is removing them. I didn't use any special tools, not even crow feet. Just wrenches, 3/8 and 1/4 drive ratchets. But, there's a good chance that you'll find or break a few studs. I broke two on mine and was able to drill them out, but it was very stressful.

 

Hi guys where to buy the new bolts ? Thanks


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They are studs, not bolts. Standard Ferrari part. In addition the nuts are copper coated and a smaller size hexagon than normal, so b sure use their parts

 

Depending on when the car was made, you may have a thermocouple fitted in the outlet of the original manifold. If you dont have this then the fitting will have a blanking cap fitted- this is not removable from the old one, as mine was seized. You will need to make 2 off these blanking caps.

 

and for the record, Mike32 helped me out quite a bit with the removal of my broken studs. He's an excellent sketch artist! Ha!

 

My sketchs are free hand but get the point over. I know what i mean