Both are optioned the same except for brakes and wheels. Prices seem in line on each for what they are. 2008, one owner, dealer maintained, CCM, very low miles, from authorized dealer. or 2006 no records, Steel brakes, higher miles, from one of those 'leasing places'. I'm strongly leaning towards the better newer car, however I'm curious. If I plan to put 10,000/yr on it and ding it up, is it really worth the $30k premium? That $30k is a lot of repair money for the older one.
It's worth it. You will be much happier with the car. Either way make sure you use it/drive it to get the value from it. You're a long time dead...
That $30k cheaper one will probably need $30k worth of things to fix to make it as good as the expensive one.
I would not buy a Ferrari with no records! There will also be an in between car. High miles, well maintained, sorted out, cheaper than main dealer but not as risky as no records.
Okay, one thing you need to know is regardless of price and mileage, the potential for repair bill is the same. There are certain things on Ferrari will fail and need to replace purely because it's not a very well built car (it's very much like a kit car). Things like suspension bushings, engine / trans mount, potential F1 issues, leaking throw out bearing, leaking valve covers, shrinking leather dash are pretty common across cars (or an eventuality) whether a well taken care of driver car or garage queen. So do not think a higher price premium will save you repair bill. Do however, take a very thorough look on each and see what the low mile one gets you underneath that additional gloss and shine. I agree with the phrase that there is no cheap Ferrari, what you don't want is to pay a premium for peace of mind only to still shell out money nonstop for repairs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My opinion knowing what I know now. Go for the better conditioned, dealer maintained one. Stay away from undocumented and possibly ill cared for ones. That said, how does the dealer maintained one compare cost wise to others in similar condition anywhere in NA. iow, is it at least going for what others are going for but too far away for you? Maybe that will help justify the seemingly higher cost. just saying...
Not to mention a long list of production changes the later car has over the 2006 one ( the list was an attachment on a thread here recently).
a 430 will not need 30k ever. if you are going to drive the car buy the cheaper one. if your life doesnt allow you to drive it much and part of the enjoyment will be admiring it then buy the more expensive one. get a ppi and change the oil and drive the **** out of it. you will be fine.
The question should be "records or no records?" The cars aren't on a level playing field, always always pick the car with records If both have records and the 'driver' is cheaper, I'd consider that route since I put 2500-3000 miles per year
Thank you everyone. I will try to do a deal Friday on the better one first, and fall back on the no records one (with PPI). They are the only two cars in Canada (for sale) with the options I want. The dealer one is not advertised.
Heh I keep thinking this too, my brain is flip-flopping and my stomach is butterfly-ing. Price is comparable for something with that low miles and options I want. Actually maybe a bit cheaper due to the US/CAD and it is a CAD car. And it's local. The older no records one, is on the wrong coast, I will need to add in $5k? transport fees. How much can I negotiate down on a dealer good example? Is 5% out of line? My appointment is at 10:30 this Friday. I'm bringing the wife.
Go with the one with all the records. Down the road when you go to sell it will be much simpler process. You don't want to be apologizing when trying to sell a Ferrari..
This is a fantastic point I had not considered. I can presume it will make it a lot easier for me to trade up later. And I would think the buyers calling on a low priced no-records car will be a lot more annoying and flaky and under-financed vs. the the buyers calling on a premium records car? I think this has swayed me to just keep looking, even if tomorrow doesn't pan out.
If you trade in the car to a dealer, it makes barely any difference on a records vs no records car, unless you have a very low mile collector quality vehicle.
I've had both low mileage garage queens and drivers and I've told myself that all things equal, except price, I will never buy a low mileage garage queen again. I want something I can drive and not worry about a paint chip and other little crap. Having said that, make sure the price is low enough because the higher mileage stuff is harder to sell. The 2 cars you're comparing are not equal and honestly, with a bit more searching, I think you can find better options for the "driver". I would look for 2007 and up if I were you.
Keep looking, you are looking for a F1 430 and these are not rare cars, even with the options you want. More will pop out in spring (I assume most cars are still hibernating in Canada). If you're a technician with spare time or best friends with one a no records car might be a risk worth taking. I recall you are an engineer (do I remember right) but...I wouldn't do it. The main dealer car will come with a warranty and while some may claim these are useless, my warranty on my 430 saved me a couple grand. If the dealer is not a shyster, they may actually do a good check for you on it pre sale. The Ferraris I have bought private sale no warranty have both been great, having said that, but they had detailed records with receipts from reputable places. You may not get your money back if trading in because of records or not, but miles do matter for values and dealers work out if miles are genuine, which may not be the case with your no records car.
Thanks - I think now I will only look for cars with records, books, keys, cover, etc. Even if those things were bought just for the sale, it still shows the owner as someone who may care.
Do other buyers care if the wheels were stock option or not? First thing I want to do is switch to CS or Scud wheels if this goes through. Do I need to keep the original wheels or am I safe dumping them to get some money back?
Since you've told us your plan is to trade up at some point, that makes a lot of sense. It just makes your life that much easier when the time comes for you to sell it on. My case is different, as I can't seem to part with my cars until they're driven completely into the ground. I personally couldn't care less whether there are receipts to prove the 1,000 mile post sale service was performed. I want to know how the car was cared for recently. Records from new don't do much for me. What has been done in the last couple of years? That's the difference between buying a driver, and buying with resale in mind.
In your case, I would hang on to them. Good bargaining chip for later resale. Include them for $X extra if a buyer wants them, or swap them out for the new buyer and sell the Scud wheels separately post sale. Or... keep them as a spare set for your new Scud.
I had no idea. I thought it was a state of the art factory run by people who love their jobs and the cars were assembled by people with heart and passion..... my 360 was Porsche quality good and never left me stranded once. Which is why I want another one. Poorly built kit car? Hardly.
I like to do a bit of tinkering on my cars and from the different cars I've owned, the build quality of the 430 is very similar to the same year lotus exige that I have owned, that is what I meant.