New to Ferrari and the F1 gearbox

1. I'll down shift when coming to a light.. Either all the way to first or let the F1 do it automatically.

2. If an extended stop, I'll put it into neutral and keep my foot on the brake pedal.

3. I've managed to lite a CEL doing that. Sometimes in N and still coasting the traffic signal turns green. What to do? Engage the left paddle and the F1 will shift into the last gear indicated.

.. Welcome to the country club.

 

Hello

Congrats and welcome to the community!

The general opinion here regarding the use of the F1 is to go into neutral when standing at a red light. This will save the clutch.

Don't know weather you already know about the (very), informative "Aldous Voice" web page: https://aldousvoice.com/ ? This will otherwise clarify a lot of questions for you and help you to better understand how the car actually works.

 

Just drive it as you would drive a manual car.
Remember there is a robot engaging the clutch for you but the car is still a manual.
Welcome to the never-ending community!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I always go directly to neutral when approaching the red light (as I would do with a stick shift). Less shifting means less clutch wear and I guess servicing the brakes is less costly. I never experienced a CEL doing that.
Enjoy your 360 F1 !

Martin

 

Congratulations! Enjoy many miles in good health.

As it was mentioned before, treat it as a manual. Approaching a stop, shift to neutral and standing on a red light keep it in neutral.

I never had an issue by shifting to neutral from 2nd, 3rd or any gear.

Also I keep mine in sport all the time and have the CS ECUs that were installed when I put the OEM Sports exhaust.

When I bought my F360 it had 15% clutch wear...now after five years...still the same 15% clutch wear...

Enjoy.

 

It shouldn't give you a CEL. As for clutch wear, I think many obsess way too much and overstate the impact of a shift. If you are careful on takeoff you should get over 40K miles on a clutch, even if you downshift to the lights to hear the blip.

 

Shouldn't.... but it did. Twice!

 

Yes, dropping to neutral and not downshifting as you approach a light will save clutch wear. Once the F1 systems disengages the clutch, it doesn't matter what gear you are in. You can sit at the light in 1 with foot on the brake.

Try and get the PIS (punto incipiente slittamento) adjusted if your car is late enough. You can adjust it to 2 decimal places. Do a test drive with a tech on flat, up and down hill. Mine was adjusted to 3.78 or .79 last summer. Better than stock.

 

Coasting to a stop isn't what is causing the CEL. You need to read the code and work from there.

 

Flick to neutral and coast to the stop. From any gear. No need for lots of gearshifts just to come to a stop. Downshifting wears the gearbox, not the clutch.
I believe the car will drop to neutral if you sit in 1st long enough but sitting in 1st doesn't wear the clutch.
90% of clutch wear is on take off. I found taking off with purpose and then backing off slightly once the car is rolling closes the clutch quicker. (less wear) You can get the clutch fully closed in less than 2 car lengths. (on the flat)

 

On a flat I generally make it in just over 1. I ease on the gas to get rolling then back off slightly. Clutch engages and I am off. Same idea.

 

Yep, that's it.

 

I have an 08 F430 with 7200 miles. I shift to neutral when coming to a stop and as Glen said, when I start from a light, a get the clutch engaged as quickly as possible. Just had my clutch wear checked at the dealer. I have used up 5% of my clutch, although I do make sure to test my acceleration on the highway...

 

I hear you there. I love the rush from 4000 to 8000 RPM. The sound is great! Shifting at 7500-8000 is almost like sidestepping the clutch and you have to be on it because it can break them loose if the road is a little slippery.

 

I do the same, ease on the gas and when you feel the gear is engaged then gas again, funny is that the manual states not do so "do not modulate the accelerator pedal during departure", but also states to start in second gear if you want a "modulated departure" which will only wear down the clutch and take way longer to engage.
Weird advice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

... and the "ASR" light winks at ya.

 

Yes, the robot needs throttle position and rpm to do what we want it to do. We have to speak that language. Once we learn it, our right foots become fluent in F1. And the robot talks to us like a native, like our race engineer. "Stay out, push push push!"


Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

Can clutch life increase? mine was 65% 2 years ago, 2k on and it's now 71%, hahaaa!!!
When I passed my National B race licence many years ago the instructor said I was "mechanically sympathetic", but increased clutch life, thats a step to far surely
neutral when coming to a stop, always, unless spirited driving, then it's down shift, I am a converted manual camp man, I now much prefer the F1 gearbox, why anyone would want a 2 second manual change gearbox I'll never know, I think it's about the money, not the drive personally having had 25+ years of manual gearbox's!!

 

Haha, maybe a different diagnostic system? Sensor range? Standard deviation? Remember it's 0.00 decimal places in mm.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

What scan tool are you using to get clutch life % info or was this by a shop?

 

Dealer and independent tech has used SD and Leonardo. My OBD Facile app has worked well for normal ecu diagnostic on tablet but tcu is more complex and proprietary.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

Exactly what John said. A dealer can show you the wear. I had my dealer do this when my vehicle was in their facility. It real quick to do...

 

+1