Oil change blues

IIRC they have bolt removers at either northern tool or harbor freight. I'd try those before going all out with a grinder or dremel.

 

Grind a groove deep enough for a flat head screwdriver to fit and remove the screws. The screen should always be checked. I just replaced mine as it was nasty.
Purchase new screws from the dealer. No need for loctight just torqued to spec.

 

Before to start cutting screwdriver slots, get a socket allen key to suit, fit an extension bar and hit the end of the extension bar with a 4 pound lump hammer- use a 1/2 size if it will fit in. This should just shock the bolt threads in the engine case to let it off enough to get it started. The allen screw is steel and the engine casing is alloy so the shock will give u enough to get it out.
Keep off impact wrenches as the power is too instant and will shear the screws

 

Good points. I have had a lot of success with impact driver. I had similar issues with my clutch inspection cover on my 360. This worked great after a couple of raps w a hammer.




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You can also get a proper sized allen socket (per Mike32) to use on a HAND impact driver (per 360+Volt=Prius jpg). A few raps with a hammer should work. You might also want to use a little heat.

 

Careful with the hammer on the aluminum flange area. If you get a good grip on the screw there's really no need for smacking around that area.

 

Did you use the proper metric Allen wrench?

I've made the mistake before...the results weren't pretty.

 

If you have an allen key with a 1/4 turn in it, then its a good make. The crap ones snap.
You say the screw stripped, do you mean the allen head has rounded out ? Or have you stripped the thread in the casing.
The socket type are short so they dont twist

 

The idea is to give it a tap, not hammer 7 bells out of it. It will give you just enough to get it out.

 

Te hand hald impact driver is just the tool for dissimilar metals. Application of carborundum grit paste in the head of a fastener helps enhance the tool's grip between tool and fastener and will reduce chance of rounding out the hole (can use a fine valve/reel lapping compound or a product called dr. grip.) The fastener should break free all the better after applying a couple drops of wintergreen oil and letting them soak, which helps with galvanic corrosion. If you suspect thread-locker was used, a gentle application of heat will break it's bond momentarily.

 

A hand help impact wrench will work. You need one that's adjustable and small (NOT the one you use for your lug nuts)...

My experience with exhaust nuts/bolts: Mine came as part of a set of tools for dewalt I think. Has 3 setting. I put it on the lowest setting which wont unscrew the allen bolt but will shake it up well. I do this for 30 seconds. Goto the second setting, repeat. By the third setting, they pop right out...

If I put it on the high setting right off, it rips the head of the bolt off or strips it...

 

Is that a cap head or a domed head ? If its a cap head, can you grip it with a set of mole grips on the sides.
Other wise you might try a slightly bigger socket allen key- if the next metric size is no good, look for an A/F size

 

Based on how flush the stoopid screws are.. I'd try this:

Performance Tool Bolt Extractors — 5-Pc. Set, Model# W80635 | Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment

mayeb like this?

or a variation thereof, before I started cutting into the screw to make a groove for a flat head screwdriver.

 

If the allen key, which is hardened steel, stripped the bolt then its in there good... these contraptions may still slip. If you use one, you may still want to use a low power impact tool to increase likelihood of success...

 

If it is countersunk, using a large drift pin and a large hammer rap them straight down on the head very smartly and they will just screw out. Needs to be done prior to stripping head out but if done now you will actually have success in removal.

 

Wow sorry to hear this. I just finished the change in my 360 and it took two days with the tray removal! My fan screen bolts came out easily. I did not remove it completely to give a proper inspection but at 14K miles I will do it next time. I actually used it as a drain since I don't have a 14mm allen socket yet. Front drain bolt came out great but it did take a breaker bar and was surprisingly free once the seal was broken. Spun easily in the threads after that. New crush washer when done. All parts torqued. I actually flushed several liters of new oil out the screen hole since I got a little out of sequence. I only drained about 4 liters out of the front drain. But she's all back together and started, run for top off. Added a bit too much what with the air pockets and I hope it didn't get ingested at the disaerator ports. Valves sounded a little tappy until I added more after the final drain. Didn't run it long and stopped in between to be sure. I could hear the valves quiet down pretty quickly and then the oil cooler gurgled after I shut it down and was closing the lid. That was pretty funny.