Programming a Ferrari Alarm ECU with New Fobs: Alarm and Fob Basics: Ferraris arrived from the factory with three alarm remote fobs, one red master fob, and two black slave fobs. The red fob contains the Alarm Electronic Control Unit (ECU) Personal Identification Number (PIN) and an identification (ID) number. The black fobs contain only an ID number. The red and black fob ID numbers are combined with a rolling code to prevent compromise by thieves using a radio receiver and recorder to duplicate the ID and code and use those to gain entry, just like modern garage door openers use rolling codes to prevent compromise. The Alarm ECU PIN is provided with the car, or with a new set of fobs, on a small piece of two layer paper, the top layer of which must be removed to read the PIN. A red fob can be used to program other black fobs using the same procedure outlined below for programming a new set of fobs, if a black fob is lost or becomes inoperative. The Alarm ECU does not use the PIN except when the car is started with ignition key and PIN alone (fobs lost or inoperative), or when reprogramming the ECU to accept new fobs. In normal use, the Alarm ECU uses only the fob IDs and rolling codes. Reprogramming the Alarm ECU for a new set of fobs is an extension of starting the car with ignition key and PIN only. In normal practice, use the black fobs and keep the red fob in a safe place where it will not be lost or damaged. This will ensure replacement black fobs can be programmed into the Alarm ECU using the red master fob, if necessary. The Alarm ECU will only accept the red fob PIN and ID and two black fob IDs during reprogramming. Note the fobs are transmitters only. They have no receiver capability. European and US/Canadian fobs use different transmitter frequencies and are not interchangeable. Ferrari recommends changing the 23A/A23/MN21 12 volt battery in your fobs every six months. This is easily accomplished with a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw holding together the two fob halves. If you only have alarm key fobs and no PIN, you cannot reprogram your Alarm ECU to accept new key fobs. (It is possible to clone extra key fobs to provide back-ups. Do a search in Ferrarichat.com.) Ferrari North America, through its authorized dealer network, can provide you a new Alarm ECU, a new set of three matching fobs, and the PIN number as an ultimate, but costly, solution. With the alarm and engine immobilizer armed, pressing a key fob will disarm both alarm and immobilizer. After 120 seconds, the engine immobilizer will rearm if the car is not started. Starting the car will require one additional push on the fob to disarm the immobilizer after 120 seconds have elapsed since disarming the system. If you remove the key and open a door after returning from driving and do not arm the system with a fob, the immobilizer will arm 60 seconds after the door is opened. To reprogram the Alarm ECU to the new PIN in the red fob, make sure the immobilizer is armed and the alarm is disarmed. Starting a Ferrari without a Key Fob: The first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new key fobs is the same process used to start a Ferrari if all remote alarm fobs are lost, inoperative or unavailable and you only have the ignition key and know the four digit Alarm ECU PIN. This procedure is spelled out in the Alarm System Manual supplied by Ferrari. Here is the procedure spelled out in the Ferrari copyright Alarm System Manual: If this seems rather cryptic, here is what it means: Drive your car to make sure the battery is fully charged in case you foul up the procedure so you do not run down your battery. Remember the times important in this sequence. Key off-on-off cycles representing PIN numbers must be made in less than two seconds. After PIN numbers are entered by the required number of key off-on-off cycles, a pause of more than 2 seconds and less than 20 seconds must be made before entering the next PIN number. If your PIN has a zero, it is represented by 10 off-on-off cycles of the ignition key. If you foul up, you must wait at least 20 seconds before starting over. So here is the procedure after you have driven the car and waited 60 seconds after removing the key and opening the door or 120 seconds after removing the key and not opening the door so the immobilizer is armed. PIN Code 3204 is used as an example for this case. This is different from the code 3324 in the Ferrari illustration above. Ignition switch position 0 mentioned above is off and position II is on. 1) Insert the ignition key and wait at least 20 seconds with the ignition key in off. 2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2 seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN number 3. 3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than 20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number. 4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2. 5) Count to 5. 6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0. 7) Count to 5. 8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4. 9) At this point, after 2 seconds or a bit more, the alarm light emitting diode (LED) will go off and you can start the car. Starting the car confirms you can correctly enter the PIN, the first step in reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new remote alarm fobs. Keep trying if you do not succeed the first time, remembering to wait more than 20 seconds before the next attempt. Programming the Alarm ECU for New Fobs: Ferrari also provided procedures for reprogramming the Alarm ECU to accept new remote alarm fobs. This process is described as putting the Alarm ECU in self-learning mode in Ferrari Workshop Manuals, the first step of which is entering the Alarm ECU PIN as described above. Again this is a bit cryptic, but the times for entering the PIN numbers still apply and less than 2 seconds is what you need to remember for the following ten key cycles noted above. Again PIN number 3204 is used as an example and the first eight steps for starting a car with PIN and ignition key alone (no fob available) are identical but given here as a complete checklist for reprogramming the Alarm ECU. The steps following PIN entry rely on watching the Alarm LED cycle from on to off ten times and eventually flashing when learning mode is fully enabled and the new alarm fob PIN (red fob only) and IDs (red and black fobs) can be entered into the Alarm ECU memory. 1) Insert the ignition key and wait 20 seconds with the ignition key in off. 2) Turn the key from off to on and back to off as quickly as possible (less than 2 seconds for all PIN numbers) 3 times (count to 3 out loud) for the first PIN number 3. 3) Count to 5 out loud (a good compromise between more than 2 and less than 20 seconds) before starting the second PIN number. 4) Turn the key off-on-off 2 times for the second PIN number 2. 5) Count to 5. 6) Turn the key off-on-off 10 times for the third PIN number 0. 7) Count to 5. 8) Turn the key off-on-off four times for the fourth and last PIN number 4. 9) Count to 5. 10) Turn the key to on and count 1 out loud. The Alarm LED will come on and then go off. 11)As soon as the LED goes off, turn the key from on to off and back to on in less than 2 seconds and count 2 out loud. 12) Repeat the key cycles and LED cycles until the count reaches 10 cycles. 13)After the 10th cycle, turn the key back on and the LED should start flashing. 14) Press the red fob button until the LED accelerates its flashing and then stop pressing the red fob button. The LED will resume flashing slowly. 15) Press the first black fob button and the LED will again accelerate its flashing. Stop pressing the black fob button and the LED will resume flashing slowly. 16) Press the second black fob button and the LED will accelerate its flashing one last time. Stop pressing the second fob button and the LED will stop flashing completely. 17) The Alarm ECU is now programmed to recognize all three remote alarm fobs and the fobs should be checked to ensure they are operational. Note: Reports have been made of the number of cycles of the LED varying from 12 to 20 or more before the LED started flashing. My Alarm LED flashed on the 11th time the key was turned to on, exactly as stated in the WSM extract above. Although this process sounds very involved, the actual ECU programming process takes less than five minutes from start to finish, assuming you make no mistakes. This is even if you are unlucky and have a couple of zeros in your PIN.
Nice writeup! and Thank You! (secretly I was hoping it was a way of eliminating the immobilizer entirely.. )
Threads like this are what keep me coming back to Fchat. We should have to pay for this kind of material. Isn't it great when our astronauts come back to earth and find a way to continue serving the rest of us. Rob could have bought a Porsche and we'd have never heard of him. many thanks.
I don't want to p1$$ on your parade but this is just copying and pasting Taz's document unless I am very mistaken Why do you not have the courtesy to credit it ? Same effectively applies to your GM siren thread which copies research by others
Greyboxer: Had no idea Taz previosuly posted it. I just purchased my first Ferrari last month and received this information from the shop that sold me my alarm siren. I thought it might be useful here. I am certainly not taking credit for it....I am just passing it along as I received it! Taz is a great guy.....he deserves credit for all of the info he routinely posts on F-Chat and the other Ferrari website. I will post a similar disclaimer on the other two posts I made. In fact, Taz has personally helped me with other issues I have had! On second thought....maybe I just won't post any more info I receive. There are two ways to tell someone they made a mistake or missed something. The tone of your message is really pretty offensive considering I was only trying to help others out! And, BTW, I received two PM's from members thanking me for posting this info. I guess they must have not seen it either!
Taz just e-mailed me to advise he has an updated instruction sheet on how to program Key FOBs and start your 360 without a FOB. Taz asked me to post this updated document so here it is! This document contains updates and missing information not included in the first attachment. I suggest everyone (except Grey Boxer of course!) use this one! Thanks Taz....you are a class act! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you for clarifying and updating The potential for misattribution was clear from the first two replies and it seemed unreasonable for Taz's work to go unacknowledged
...buying a car without a red fob and the PIN? It seems like if you don't lose the black ones you are o.k.? Is this a correct interpretation of the way the alarm and immobilizer works? That's how I read it.
My understanding is that you need either the red FOB or the PIN to program new FOBs. Can someone verify this and correct as needed?
Yes - its wisest to clone one before you lose any ! If you find a spare red you can clone from black to red to pretend you have a full set
Taz's updated info sheet explains this. FOBs only come in a matched set of three - one red, two black. While you can have them cloned by an expert (such as Gobble), you can't just buy another black FOB and use your existing red FOB to "program" the new one. The FOBs are all read-only. The sole purpose of the red FOB and its distinction from the black ones is that it contains the (matched set's) PIN. This new PIN is fed to the CAR's alarm ECU when programming the CAR to accept a new set of FOBs. To have the car accept the new PIN of the matched set, you need your existing PIN. Once you use your physical key to input the existing PIN, there is a further key on/off sequence to tell the alarm ECU to accept a new set of FOBs. You follow the PIN and "accept new" sequence, then press the red FOB button, then the black ones in succession. The red one transmits the new PIN to the alarm ECU, which accepts the new PIN, then each of the (matched set) black ones is recognized by the alarm ECU and programming is complete. Note that only the car's alarm ECU is "programmed," and the FOBs are not. Once this is completed, the car will recognize all three and there is no practical difference in normal day to day operation of the car. Be sure to update your records to the new PIN, which should come with the new matched set of FOBs (on that double piece of paper). From the above, you can see that having at least one FOB is important. You can see also that having the PIN is important if you ever want to get a new set of FOBs recognized by the car, or if you are away from home and have the physical key but the remote battery goes dead (or you lose or destroy the FOB). You cannot start the car without either a recognized FOB or the current PIN that is in the alarm ECU. If the car only comes with one FOB, but you have the PIN, you are golden, as you can always buy a factory set of new FOBs and program them to the car. If you do not have the PIN, you will need to get it from Ferrari (yes, they actually keep those records). Dealers usually charge a few hundred dollars to get the code for you (I think the factory charges them, because it does take work to maintain the database, and it's Ferrari - they charge for everything). If the prior owner changed FOBs without Ferrari knowing, however, the car will have the new PIN input by that owner, and the PIN that Ferrari gives you from its database will be useless. The FOBs and alarm ECU use rolling codes (like modern garage door openers) to prevent someone from simply transmitting a signal on the same frequency to unlock your car. Sometimes if you only use one of the three FOBs all the time, the others may get out of sequence. If so, I think the solution is to simply hold down the transmit button on the FOB until the car recognizes it. This only works of course if it's one of three of the matched set (or a clone of one). I hope this clears up some of the above and answers others' questions.
Can anyone tell me how far am I supposed to turn the key during this process.... Is it just to position 2 or is it all the way to the spring as if trying to start the car?
see also post 1 "Ignition switch position “0” mentioned above is off and position “II” is on"
I bought a 360 with only one key and one Fob no code from a non Fcar dealer I had in writing they would provide me with the factory security code and the 3 fobs and 3 keys the Fobs programmed to the car. It took 5 months to get the the keys and Fobs. I got them this weekend the FOBs were all black no red Fob - one Fob has a Master Sticker on it. I got a card with the Security code now.
I read that but I can't find anywhere telling me whether position 2 is the first click or the spring rebound point....
Credit where it's due but I'm sure Taz had a little help from someone and that person probably had a little help from someone else etc. etc.
Greg- Yup, but nobody had written it down except the factory. An owner gave me some hints after he programmed his set to work and Brian helped me eliminate a couple of misconceptions from the initial version. I wrote the checklist and then used it to program my own set into the ECU. The group in Australia can now pull PINs from red (master) fobs and Alarm ECUs for a price, so I actually need to update the document. They have also done some excellent videos showing how to perform the operations and can provide sets of fobs to match the immobilizer/ECU.