Hello, guys im going nuts...I got a problem with my baby and my mechanic doesn't know what to do. I was driving my car one day and I noticed a check engine light on. the next day I took the car to the mechanic, on the way there I can feel the car blimping a lil and then I seen a blinking check engine light on. i went to check up on him today and the battery was a little low so he hooked up a booster to it. when the car fired up i noticed that it has 555555 miles on it.... i don't know if that because he tried to start the car on a low battery or ??????? I took it to F&M MOTOR SPORTS IN WEST LA. he is a really friendly guy who works on a lot of beautiful cars. the car has been there for the past month and a half!!!! here is what we did. my mechanic said it is giving him multiple misfire code on cylinder #6. he has done the following.. new coil new spark plug new wires (I think) switched the injectors from one side to the other. no luck. im not to knowledgeable on how the 430 engine mechanics work but this guy does and he can't figure it out. im thinking about taking it to another mechanic to have them check it out. I did take I to Ferrari oh Beverly hills and they told me that they aren't to sure of what it was either but they wanted to change all the valve sensors and then work from there...they were talking about taking out the entire engine and doing a bunch of bs. I don't mind spending the money to fix the problem but I don't really want to waste money with Ferrari of Beverly hills service department's ridiculous price increase's + I feel like they just want to jack up the bill on me. what do you guys think ? thanks in advance.
That would be one of my guesses. Broken valve spring or an intake gasket, or another header failure....... Whoever boosted your car may have damaged the instrument pack. These cars are massively sensitive to voltage....
Your initial mechanic went through the obvious stuff and is what i would have started with. Now you must dig deeper. Possibilities: 1. Valve spring (sure, neighbor had one last year) 2. Compression failure; .a. Bent or non seating valve .b. Head gasket 3. Intake gasket failure 4. Failing wiring from ECU to injector OR COP (Coil Over Pack) 5. Bad ECU (can you swap ECUs left to right?, if so try it) 6. Extreme header issue Try: 1. Get a compression check. Do cyl 5,6 ,7 or so, don't need to do all of them. 2. A leak down on 6 and 7 not a bad idea either. 3. Swap ECUs if possible. 4. Check voltage on a scope on the FI and COP as compared to a good cyl to check for wiring or ECU issues. The cop and FI drivers can fail in the ECU 5. Check the intake gasket externally for "blow out" residue (oil or black stuff), too common on 360s 6. Checking the valve spring should be done last simply because it will be the most time consuming task, cams have to come out for a proper inspection, thus timing reset, etc *most important; let us know the root of the issue when fixed **always best to tell us what car you have. Or fill out your profile.
When they start throwing parts at a car leave the place immediately. You do not replace parts till performing a complete diagnosis with a conclusion. You have already spent money on parts with no resolution. Time to move on!
OOOOKAY!!!! I just got off the phone with my mechanic and he said he has to many other projects to mess with and doesn't want the burden of messing with this car. so now I have to start all over... so im going to do what I should have done in the beginning....ask you guys what to do and where to go. so as you guys already know I got a misfire in cylinder #6 Im not much of a mechanic. I can drive but I can't fix. so who can you guys recommend me to go to ? it is a 2005 f430 f1. I live in Los Angeles and looking for a good mechanic who knows his stuff at an affordable price. also do I need to send the instrument cluster to Ferrari n/a to fix the miles ? (it says 555,555) miles on it. can a shop do it ? if I do have to send it out how much do they charge to redo it ? thanks guys for all the replys it really means a lot to me. im looking forward to getting this car fixed and on the road again!! I feel deprived of my baby. I can sit in it but I cant drive it !!!!!!! it sucks . thanks again lol
What an (instrument) cluster f*&k! Don't think modern odos can be rolled back. What they typically do is replace them and then the title has to reflect that it was changed.
The 430 engine has variable camshaft timing, which is activated by oil pressure, controlled by a solenoid. It is a possibility that one of the variator solenoids on that bank is failing and causing the misfires. Otherwise, I would also suspect a bad intake gasket. The valve trains in these engines are pretty stout, it would take a nasty mechanical over rev to bust a valve spring...in most instances. IMO.
If the mechanic damaged the cluster by putting a booster on the battery then I'd expect him to arrange and pay for the damage. Mind you, I'd expect the mechanic to know better than to jump start the car and I'd also expect them to finish a job off. I hope you haven't paid for the "work" so far....
1+ I saw a challenge engine suffer from oil starvation and the crankshaft and some rods burn out. The heads are intact, well I'm using it rirght now without any problems. Also it comes with aggressive cams ;-)
+2. You NEVER "boost" a 360 or 430. I believe that the manual states to take the battery out of the car and charge it. That he did this suggests he's not the right guy for the job. A dealership can reset the instrument cluster. SD3? Then as Trent gave you a good workflow.. I'd go with what he posted. Sorry I don't have a recommendation for a competent mechanic in the LA area.. BTW, they replaced most things I would have on that cylinder (coil, plug, etc.) did they put a borescope down and check it out?
Despite all the sorry stories of fried electronics and flat batteries the manual does actually state that you can jump from another battery for emergency start of a car with a flat battery. I wouldn't try it personally but it's pretty much there in the manual, connect the positive terminals then the negatives, start the car, once the engine is running disconnect the negatives then the positives.
and that is exactly what my dealer did when they jump started my 360 after it sat on their lot for a week (before I fixed the battery drain issue).
Unfortunately, it's also the very reason over the years I've replaced instrument packs, motronic units, abs ecu's and f1tcu's.
If you do need to jump a car, it's much safer to do so from the panel behind the passenger seat. The big +ve terminal there has three main wires on it - one goes directly to the starter motor (red/black wire in the pic below), the other to the battery via the front of the car (incl the dash) and the third to the rear of the car. If you jump onto the battery terminals the current draw has to do via the dash to the start motor whereas if you jump into the panel behind the seat the current will go directly to the starter. Image Unavailable, Please Login
+1, Doesn't it also say to use a battery of the same exact output, power, etc. to minimise the current bump.. ?
he did check all the compression and he said it was 190-195 on all cylinders. i am planing on picking it up today and delivering it some where else by tomorrow or monday. thanks every one for the reply's.
