Coolant level 360 and small leak

could be a hose, could be water pump...youll need to get her up on a lift..open up bottom access and take a closer inspection

 

Follow the hose that comes out of the coolant cap. It terminates on the left side of the engine compartment, right onto the pan. If it's over filled, that's where it would dump. According to what you said, it's apparently not your problem though. Your problem may actually be as simple as a defective coolant cap, that is leaking fluid out when it's supposed to be sealed. If that's the case, you hit the jack pot. 1 minute to install and about $40 to buy!
As others have stated here, the proper cold level is 40mm or approx. 1 1/2" below the top of the opening of the tank. If it's even a little over filled, it will come out of the overflow hose and onto the pan underneath after the first heat cycle.
I decided to make a tool out of a wire, so I can get an accurate measurement. I bent a hoop at the bottom parallel to the fluid and then it comes straight out and over the neck and rests on the tank. You will just need to measure where to make the bends so you can get an accurate reading. Once the tool is made, just fill the level right up to the hoop. Once filled, it will be very obvious even if the slightest amount of fluid comes out. I also noticed that if a recent service was done on the coolant, the system will burp out air. During the hot and cold cycles that burp the system, the level may drop, and/or spit some coolant out onto the pan. Once it's all stabilized, there will be no more spilled coolant, or dropping level. (assuming that there isn't a problem with the car of course)
If you need a photo of the tool I made, let me know and I can show a picture.

 

The caps are trash.

Just replace it.

 

Agree with above. Replace the cap first. If not that then check the hose connections and clamps, mine had a very small drip, was a loose clamp. It's usually something simple.

 

On most of the older cars I've owned have a pressure rated cap with a spring to allow fluid (or air) out whenever the internal pressure was higher than the spring rating but to reseal and close the system when the pressure drops. On the newer ones with an over flow bottle the cap would allow the fluid to be drawn back in. As the Ferrari doesn't have an over flow container then what you experienced seems to be correct -- a one way valve.
Alan

 

But it is not, it is a pressure relief valve set at over 15 lbs. The human body can only generate about 1 lb. They fail routinely and have been known to cause serious damage.


The caps are crap, he needs a new one. Most 360's on the road do.

 

Brian
I was only commenting on the types of systems -- seems like the Ferrari has the former (no catch container) therefore a simple pressure rated cap. If he has a leak by on the cap then he would see coolant on the floor under where the hose exits the bottom panel-- if from somewhere else it would drip onto the panel. It the cap failed then you would lose all pressure and coolant. I'm sure you would immediately notice that and shut her down. Check out this thread.
Alan
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/360-430/444035-close-call-today-thought-she-going-up-flames.html

 

You probably have a slow drip-drip leak on a hose somewhere that needs to be replaced or maybe tightened. I had several radiator hoses go bad that I needed to replace which all had these drips. Unfortunately the OEM Ferrari hoses are expensive and the best aftermarket alternative, Scuderia Rampante, is also expensive and doesn't make replacements for all of the hoses on the 360. Normally a hose is a cheap and easy fix, but can be a pain to remedy on the Ferrari because the parts can be spendy for something so small.

 

It's not the "Glycoshell" if that's what you are asking. The original Glycoshell is a bluish color and it's very hard to find if you are not buying in bulk.
I know there are certain types that can't be used, other types that shouldn't be mixed together, etc. I don't know what I'm going to do in the fall when I need to replace it again. The dealer that I bought my car from used Glycoshell, but they couldn't send it through the mail for me. So far, the only place I found Glycoshell was through a CT dealer at $18 (I think) a Liter!
By the way, does anyone know anything that is safe to mix with Glycoshell just in case I can't find it in the fall? I'm going to use an airlift to replace the coolant, but that doesn't flush all of the coolant out, so there will be some mixing of the fluids.

 

You had the right amount in your search. 1/2 is actually a little low

 

Not at all. Very few of the 360's I see have the hose sticking out of the belly pan.

Caps do not go from working properly to holding no pressure. They go bad gradually. About 1 in 10 360's that come here don't have bad caps, they are low on coolant and are not overheating. Servicing Ferraris that use those caps since 1994 when Ferrari began using them I have observed they last about 2 years. I service the same cars over and over and that is the typical life. I know of at least one 550 that had severe cavitation that destroyed the cylinder liners and after a vigorous investigation it was concluded it was probably from insufficient coolant pressure. Cost a bundle to fix. Correct pressure retention is vital and most 360's do not because no one ever tests them.


So tell me. Besides your car what is your data base?

In any event he needs to pressure test his entire system. The rest of this is just jerking off.

 

+1. My old cap would "buzz" for 3 seconds, then silence, buzz quietly.. silence. Very gradually loosing pressure after shutoff. Then I replaced it and its gone. The rubber membrane in the cap held in by the spring goes very gradually.

 

Mine does that also as it's cooling. I thought that it was the air going back into the tank to displace the volume once the coolant level dropped as it cooled?
Am I wrong? Do I also need a new cap?

 

Brian,
Is there a way to test the cap?
I would think the proper way is to pressure test it with a special tool. Other than looking for coolant leaking out of the over flow, is there a way I can check it?
The coolant level in the tank stays stable in my car, does that mean it's a good cap?
I know that the cap needs to hold pressure for the system to work properly because with pressure, the boiling point is raised. Is it possible to not hold pressure, but not leak from the over flow tube either?

 

The market place is full of tools designed to pressure test cooling systems and caps. Has been so since pressurized systems started in the 30's. I do it every car, every service.

Not magic and no other meaningful test available.


The failure of so many to do this very basic and very important preventative test is exactly why so many of us keep our clients away from owner maintained cars. The simple fact that this is even a point of discussion says volumes about the level of care.

 

I am not sure who you is but due to the pressure in a properly operating system it cannot be checked hot.

I fill them week in and week out to about half full. A few extra ounces will make no difference.

 

That's awesome that you do that for all of your customers cars! I'm pretty sure that you are unique in this. I would bet that most shops aren't that thorough.
I'll request that they check my cap the next time my car is in for service for something....or maybe I should replace it just for good measure since you say that 9 out of 10 over 2 years old are bad.

 

I guess I need to replace mine as I don't see anything in all of the service records where it was replaced. However I do see a Complete Engine Coolant Service. This was by a main dealer but I don't have the actual invoice to see what parts where used.
Brian
Is the cap normally replaced as part of the Ferrari Coolant Service?
Thanks
Alan

 

Hey Brian...any recommendation for a decent replacement or just go OEM? Mine is more than likely original (2004 car) so probably time to R & R. Thanks...

 

I have tried every brand I have been able to find. The best was bad by any sensible yardstick. Its just a bad design.