F1 Paddle vs. Auto | FerrariChat

F1 Paddle vs. Auto

Discussion in '360/430' started by spikes360, Apr 14, 2014.

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  1. spikes360

    spikes360 Formula Junior

    Apr 1, 2013
    420
    Niles, IL
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #1 spikes360, Apr 14, 2014
    Recently I had a 30K major completed on my 360 and the clutch was at about 44% according to the dealer. Since then I only drove it about 30 miles. I was sitting at a light in 1st gear and when I took off it didn't go into 2nd. When I hit the paddle it went into neutral. I clicked the paddle a few times and it went into 4th or 5th. It did this a few times within 5 miles and always when I was coming off a stop but not every time. So, for the heck of it I put it in auto mode and although the shifting was slower it never slipped out to neutral. Am I doing something wrong? When I'm shifting I almost never let up on the gas. I'm not trying to beat everyone off the line but I don't like taking off real slow either.
     
  2. English Rebel

    English Rebel Formula 3

    Aug 13, 2013
    2,158
    Piedmont Area of NC
    Full Name:
    Alan
    #2 English Rebel, Apr 14, 2014
    That is not normal. Should shift whenever you pull on the paddles. Normally when the transmission goes into neutral it's a sign of clutch on the way out but as yours is only half worn that shouldn't be the case. Perhaps when they did the major they didn't set the clutch PIS correctly. More savvy Ferrari techs may have an answer.
    Alan
     
  3. tr328

    tr328 Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    905
    Pacifica, California
    Full Name:
    Darryl
    #3 tr328, Apr 15, 2014
    It could be your actuator going bad especially if you are driving and it pops into neutral. Just my thought. Good luck.
     
  4. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,087
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    #4 tazandjan, Apr 15, 2014
    Mike- The F1 system putting you in neutral is a safety feature built into her to prevent you from getting stuck stopped in traffic in gear. Many things can set it off, including the clutch, the clutch postion sensor, other F1 sensor or solenoid, low fluid, air in system, actuator, bad switch in steering wheel/paddle interface, etc. Hard to diagnose on the internet. Best to take her to your tech and let him check her with an SD2 and then diagnose the problem.
     
  5. spikes360

    spikes360 Formula Junior

    Apr 1, 2013
    420
    Niles, IL
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #5 spikes360, Apr 16, 2014
    Taz, Yea I'm taking her in for a check in a few days. I asked the service guy and he didn't know why the "Auto" was ok and the manual (paddle) shifting was not. I'm going to have them roll my fender in as well. I'm surprise that they didn't find anything wrong when they did the 30k a few weeks ago. I would assume that they checked with a SD2 at that time.
     
  6. spikes360

    spikes360 Formula Junior

    Apr 1, 2013
    420
    Niles, IL
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #6 spikes360, May 5, 2014
    OK well I was on vacation last week and I had my 360 in for a fender roll and top fix. While it was there I had them check why the trans would shift to neutral. At 1st they didn't get it to go into neutral. So they said lets bleed the F1 system and then try (they did the 30k a month before) maybe there was some air in the system. So when they did that and drove the car they said it did shift into neutral. So they checked the P.I.S. and checked the clutch and the reading was about 50% but then they told me that they checked the clutch a different way and it read 75% wear. They said that maybe someone didn't enter the right numbers before. So they suggested to replace the clutch, bearing and sensor for about $7.5k. I was expecting to change the clutch when I bought the car. My problem is if the dealer is jacking me around a bit. When I brought the car into them in March for the 30k I asked if I should do the clutch right away since they have it torn apart. They said at the time that the clutch didn't need it so I should wait. Well I waited so I think this whole thing is going to cost me about a $1-2k extra because I waited. I'm new to this type of experience and cost and I expected to do the 30k major, brakes and clutch when I bought the car. But I'm a little disappointed on how this turned out.
     
  7. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,133
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    #7 Rifledriver, May 5, 2014
    There is nearly zero duplicated parts or labor in a major and clutch job so savings would have been almost nil.

    The checking it a different way sets off alarm bells though.

    That dealer is not the only place on earth that repairs Ferrari's.
     

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